racer

I didnt think it would. Im going to be lucky if it clears now, the more I look at it.

if you go the heim route try chassisshop.com, camrburg.com, kartek.com, mckenzies.com, or locally go to a race car shop. they are commonly used for fabrication.

a 450 motor would be a nice touch. it a little hard to kick over a mower considering where youd have to locate the engine.

i should have pics on weds. shop's closed until tuesday.

ya i will. i forgot to add that if you go with a racetech ktt you will need a pair of metric calipers or a micrometer. the valving shims arent labeled so that pretty much the only way to tell whats what. another note. the racetech seal head does not use two circlips like that factory one. it only uses the one on the font and relies on the nitrogen pressure to the SH in place. it requires a little more maintenance cause your gas always needs to be the right pressure. but the upside is next time you wanna change your valve stacks you can reuse the SH.

Ruko, I have a question. can you relocate the mounts on the factory arms? im thinking about doing this, but i dunno if they will clear the upper arm, and i dont wanna be sorry. -Cole

its fuckin simple, if you buy the right parts. I dont have pictures yet, ill add those later. i used a racetech gold valve kit, it includes everything you need for the vavling components. you will also need one quart of shock oil and a new seal head, as you will destroy the factory one, which is probably shot anyways. Steps: 1. let the nitrogen out of the shock., and remove the spring. these are the only times a special took is needed. a spring compressor and a nitrogen needle. however it can be done with out them, thats how i did it. just a handful of vise grips to compress the spring just enough to remove the coil hat, and you can SLOWLY back out the hex cap fitting on the bottom of the reservoir. once itsa few turns out it will start to leak gas, if you have any left. now mount the shock in a vise with the body portion being clamped. 2. using a sharp chisel, or other appropraite substitute, tap out the end cap of the body. aim the chisel at a 45* upward angle and tap gently with a hammer and the cap popes out fairly easy. clean that shit out! chances are there is going to be a ton of dirt caught between the end cap and the seal head (SH). clean it out so you can see what youre doing. 3. drain the oil. with the nitrogen out of the system you can push the reservoir up into the shock. it will slide on the arm that its attachted to, revealing a circlip that retains the resi. remove that circlip and pull the resi off of the body. beware that it is full of oil. 4. USE EXTREME CAUTION. you are about to drill/cut into your SH. the SH is what keeps your shock oil from escaping. it is retained in the shock body by 2 circlips, very much like those used on your pistons to keep the pins in place. there is one clip on the back, and one on the front. you are going to CAREFULLY use a small drill or dremel tool to cut back the edge of the SH, use caution not to cut into the shock body, or youre pretty much fucked. once you have about a 1/4-1/2 of the circlip visible its time to remove it. use a pick to remove the circlip through the groove you just cut into the SH. once thats out you can slowly pull the entire shock shaft out of the body. beware that once the SH is from of the body, the shock oil will start to pour out and onto the floor. once you pull everything out far enough, you will expose the cirlcip thats behind the SH. remove this and then pull the shaft completely out of the body. 5. You can now go about re-valving your shock with what ever parts you like. this is also the time to put on a new bumpstop. Thats as far as i have gotten. I was doing it at work on saturday when things picked up and i had to do my job. :yankyank: All thats left for me to do is put in the proper amount of oil and button it back up. Once thats complete, ill complete this thread. Im also going to take a picture of where I cut into the SH to remove the circlip. Please ask all the questions you want, as im SURE i forgot some things.

badass. im not in the market for it right now. i havent even ridden on them yet, so i wanna see how that goes.

i dont see why not. a parts washer would be the best way to go.

jetting shouldnt change with a two stroke head. if it does youve got some funky shit going on. think about it. youre not flowing any more air, just compressing what you had already.

i god damn mother fucking hate indian casinos. oh we took their shit 400 years ago. they still want it back....leave me the fuck alone and ill consider it.

more like a repeat comment. lol j/k

ive been pondering the same question and the solution is arizona. the best i can think of so far. ive been pondering the same question and the solution is arizona. the best i can think of so far.

its cool. i cant drink 11 beers. i get to ten, run out of fingers and start over. :thumb:

heh. the cylinder head- its what the spark plugs screw into. now between those plugs there is a small diameter, maybe 10-12mm hose. that hose automatically bleeds the coolant system. make sure that it is free flowing and hooked into the back of the radiator.

yes

there is no way to bleed it. if its gurgling it may just be low. on second thought: make sure the small diameter coming from the TOP of the head isnt blocked. thats the only way air can get trapped in the system.

i wish there were some viloent basball related smilies. like assault with a bat maybe?

a 400 sportman does not have reeds. maybe a 400 scrambler youre thinking of?

leave it to california..............:-)

incorrect. the journals are relocated outward by 2mm. the extra two mils up and the extra two mils down. (circular motion) then you add them together for the total of 4mm.

ive never heard of an angled reamer before. just figured that since it spun, it had to be straight.

badass. cause i got a brand spankin new set today. for free. do you know if anyway makes trick valve components for them? or do you just get new oil and anitrogen and call it good?

the heim is there for convience. with a rigid mount or a bushing you have to have everything dead true. with the heim you can have like 20 * of misalignment and be ok. i see you point about the rear. look like a decent mod if yuou have a tig welder and a mill. that mount area has been built up and milled/grtound/filed flat to accomodate the bolt/nut combo. good lookin bike though.

word.