racer

ive ridden one and i think they are pretty cool. similar to an FZ6, but to me it was more comfy. nice power too.

ummm, you should be taking pictures at the brooke household............. how come no one calls me? sniff sniff

no, sorry Stan I dont. yes its one of those earless bastards. the picture shows pretty well what goes on. that rubber seal on the end rests against the end cap of your shock, so it faces towards your rear tires if you will. you can see the groove atop the AL portion of the head, thats where the circlip resides. now you just go in that portion of the shock body and cut into the SH directly behind the clip. cut as big a portion as you like, but you have to get a pick or two in there to get it out. once it has started coming out you get a firm grip on the clip with some needle nose and twist the SH, virtually unthreading the clip from its groove. Cutting the groove, I used a small air powered right angle die grinder. Im sure a wizard or a dremel toool would be fine. use a small bit, what ever you are comfortable with. Theres a pretty big area (realtively) to play with, so get a bit you can control so it wont cut into your shock body.

hmm, that sounds fun.

Ok here are two pictures. one is of the seal head with necessary groove cut into it. this should give a pretty clear of whats needed and ill explain why if anyone has questions. the second is of the stock valve. the third is of the gold valve. and it wont let me post them, so if someone wants to help me out.............

cause 5th is 1:1

check ur compression. mine used to do that when i needed a new topend. i realize you just got one, but not every one is a prodigy with a boring bar.

zip ties are better.

i was being sarcastic. but the foreign materials thing is cool. so when you tell them you are using high grade domestic materials do they laugh and say we dont want your imported shit in said country?

ya, like you would know anything about measuring stuff. .............. ::

how is that measured? tire centerlines, wheel mount surface, frame tube to frame tube? lol

What about a huge confederate flag? anyone know where i could get one of those made?

Thats what I thought, 3 years later its still there! hahahahaha tow hose clamps and some heater hose did the trick for me. youre not talking about a lot of pressure hear so an absolute seal isnt absolutely needed.

i saw some of those on the internet today. look like they were robbed from a CR 250. :shrug: i have been running outwears, but im not sure if i am going to order any for my new shocks. i dont really know that they help that much. there was dirt and shit caked to my old shocks when I took them off about an hour ago...........and it was stuck unde the shockwear in a place i wouldnt look, and a place the pressure washer obviously didnt get to.

That confederate flag seat cover is the shit. Im gonna need to know where you got that..............

I mounted mine today and found the best way to fit everything up was to remove the springs. back the preload nuts all the way back, remove the coil hat and off come the springs real simple. plus it means that you can fully cycle everything for clearances without having to compress the springs. Forgot to add: friends grandpa does custom upholstry, so he can sew Like no other. Im thinking of getting some tabs for limitstrap like are used on sand cars. they will limit your down travel, but keep the ball joints from taking all the stresses of the longer shocks. Ill just use those tabs at the shock bolts and have him sew in some mil-spec webbing from a climbing shop and I should be good to go. I figure ill just use the same overall eye to eye length as the factory shocks. Ill post up when Im done.

Ya, Ill try to remember to bring home all the parts tomorrow when I get off work so I can get soem pics. I guess i can wait one more day to button it back up............sigh. j/k its been apart for two months almost. :baseball_w00t: Stan I have a sneaking suspicion you could could take apart your factory rear shock if you still have it. Ther is only one complicated part. And if you set the shock body up in a vise on a turntable and use a .0625 or .125 end mill you could cut that groove damn near perfect. Just make sure to let that nirtogen out of there first. hahahaha

i was looking on the racetech website and they offer valving kits for the 450 fronts shock also. the price quoted was 160 bucks, same as the rear kit. however this makes me wonder if thats for each side, or for the pair??? heres the website. http://www.racetech.com/evalving/english/S...angname=english

we do. and we do a damn good job. neener neener

ya, its an easily replacable piece too. gotta remove the clutch assembly, but thats no big deal. you could turn/thread your own, but i think it would be worth the few dollars tp just order one. my buddy tried to make one out of a bolt and it snapped with a quickness, so i think they may be tempered or something also.

if you have a welder and a bandsaw you can make some even with out a bender.

the cops around here are pretty cool about illegal riding. what i dont like are the cops in stillwater Ok. i got 9 parking tickets last year at school. shit like i was parked there for too long, or i was over the line. or facing the wrong way. seriously, who gives a shit how long i am parked in a parking lot.

yes its a monster. no one is disputing that the fact that it has power, or that it has the capability to win. my point is that is that at some point in every mechanical object there is a breaking point, and you cant get rid of it, only move it. that bikes weak link cant be moved anymore, its too much. at this point, if they stepped down the power, and kept it together i think it would be faster than that 16mm, which BTW .

i would say you broke the peg, mentioned above, that holds the shaft in position. think of it as a spring loaded ratchet shifter. with that peg broken there is nothing to pull the shaft back into place to make another downshift. you can upshift because gravity takes care of that.............

14.75" is stock. a LT shock is usually 19"