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racer

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Everything posted by racer

  1. The only guy I know of on here that has done one himself is a machinist by the call of boonman. I dont remember who it was for either. I just remember him eating up a lot of tooling doing it. Maybe he was only using HSS instead of M-42 or carbide. But those gears are real fucking hard, so good luck.
  2. if you can find one use a left hand drill and spin your drill motor in reverse. that way one of two things happens: A) you cut through the material, or the bit catches and spins the bolt out.
  3. 1, a carbide drill will be very expensive too. 2, dont touch your grinder with any carbide surface. it will eat your wheel faster than it will take an edge.
  4. who needs a tool kit, buy this.
  5. why not swap in an LS-2 and give me your 5.3?
  6. i miss stan
  7. out of the woodwork for sure. nice shirt though. maybe a pic of it on you? or your floor? :biggrin:
  8. well your jokes are stupid, and most of all not funny. I would consider visiting a site such as eHarmony.com, it could possibly help you to pick up a real life.
  9. heat does that to steels and other metals. definitely nothing to judge your jetting by.
  10. i u sed to have one and followed the aftermarket for a bit. tell me a lil bit about it and ill see what comes to mind for ideas. off hand, long travel.
  11. Well, my model is the 3/8ths drive. Im sure that when you buck up to 1/2", 3/4", or spline drive the cost goes through the roof.
  12. i think $315 is retail. I traded my other gun in on it and paid the diff, so who knows what I actually paid.
  13. i have a snap on MG31. its pretty cool. all magnesium housing so its nice and light. and if it ever breaks i can watch the housing burn, sweet.
  14. I need one of those. They are pretty pricy, but I think I can talk someone into buying it for me. ie, mom.
  15. on a side note, 20 bucks for a precision high quality bearing aint bad.
  16. from this little excerpt it seems as though you are trying to mix and match diameters and the pitches that follow. but from your last post I see they dont thread in. that would make a sizable in the number of choices available. but you still have to match the tapers, unless your spindles have been reamed. im done.
  17. Oh man, you have much to learn. You cant just choose an different size because its close. There is quite a bit that goes into multi-point threading, and it all has to match. Get the right joints or risk a serious injury when one randomly lets go.
  18. haha. thanks for the rep guys. Oil? I don't even remember what I used on my last shock build. I think it was PJ-1 super slick? Valving, that is way over my head for the time being. I cant help you there. The shocks I have played with all had different valve designs, so those shim numbers would be irrelevant. My suggestion is a DIY kit from racetech. If you cant tell, Im a fan. They build some serious stuff. Now that I think about it, RT, prob doesnt do stuff for works. Youll will just have to call them and see what they say. About the oil thing. Thats a cheap way to stiffen up your valving. BY just doing an oil change to a higher viscosity you instantly and cheaply have a new stiffer ride. Sorry if this does not help much. Valving is a very complicated thing, that for you app, I have no experience with.
  19. racer

    recharge parts

    racetech.com
  20. Hmm, i didnt realize it would be that wild of a variation. Even if you had a coef. it would only be for one snad compound. Wet or dry, fine or coarse would also make a huge diff.
  21. You dont need that. Figure everything with no tire spin, much like a coefficient of 1.0.
  22. just noticed that GTperf has a four link setup. that would be cool cause you can change lengths all day long with different size links, and chains. just gotta have a huge brake line.
  23. what about statics? You roughly know your horsepower, so convert that to torque. then you have a moment equation about the axle, assuming the tires dont spin. that pretty much makes the bike a heavy lever. using some known, or calculated weights figure out where you need to place the centroid in relation to your axle. then you will know your arm length. Lemme know what you think. IM curious to see if im learning anything. ha
  24. Like a SCORE class 8? cause that would be sweet. Good luck with your moving.
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