racer

Going through some decisions. Im 99% sure im gonna join mini baja. They have a tubing bender and contacts with a CNC bender, so then I woulndt not need to use plate and would have wasted some hours. Not really wasted, just not used. I finally got around to taking the required tests to use one of the school's machine shops. That place sucks. I couldnt hold .010 at all. I can hold .002 at work all day, so its not me. But should be fine for boring some tube to press in a bushing. I did for a brief instant think of running 2 sealed ball bearings at the pivot locations. That would be smooth. Or use unsealed bearings with something similar to the factory dustcaps, but waaaaay tighter fit. Then run an oil bath actually in the pivot tube. WHo knows what Im gonna do. More importantly here comes spring break!

I used to wonder why I needed to know all they tried to teach me; and it was only after I learned it all that I realized I learned more than they said. Its about thought process and logic, plus its a damn good way to weed out the idiots. ME's prob wouldnt make jack shit if anyone could sign up to be one, like bein a business major. haha.

try dezertrangers.com if you cant find it for a ranger there; it doesnt need to found. autofab is good. john's a great guy to talk to. but 2000 for a front end is gonne go very far. some fox 2.5 are gonna ~450 each, plus coils.

dirtsports

easy and hard are relative terms. Im really quite sure I could make a shaft in a day with no sweat. Probably just use drill rod, then harden, and maybe some grinding if necessary. depends on how much slack the seals would pick up.

Maybe the joint combo on his particular arms allow the YFZ shocks to fully extend without binding. That extra inch or some may cause some issues?

OH come on! you know there is some HT that goes into a shaft. King hardens the fuck out of theirs but for 1k+ each they better. My point on the shaft issue is that the uneducated consumer will just a buy a replacement shock. my rationale is that if he/she if dumb enough to pay ~$450 for a single new one, then they are probably not bright enough to replace a shaft. and are also not bright enough to look into the aftermarket. The dealer just expolits that and reduces liability by selling them a product they know is safe, and if its not, its not their ass.

to make money. why is a company there? to make money. get it?

in calc I we learned how to take uneven square roots to the ninth decimal place. of course i couldnt do it now........

fuck it, buy a honda. the quailty difference is well worth the cash.

WOW, I need to pay a shit load more attention to things. haha.

thats stock, from the looks.

I cant wait to do the fastener selection for my new parts. Personally I like the look of a 12 point bolt with the safety wire holes drilled in it. Very trick/works look to me. Plus good frickin luck breaking one and the safety wire is a better way of securing a bolt.

im sure it was implied by now, but were on the same page.

I havent gotten that far, yet. Ill let you know when I do, but more than likely it will be a while.

He also has a protrax frame.

no

I just took a 450 shock apart. i didnt have the right tools to pull the valving though. but when i do, watch for a 3D model of the valve! hooray SolidWorks '07

those things look a little weak to me. for what purpose are you lowering? struts may be the answer.

HA! I dont think so. I dont really think ill have trouble with a 3/4 heim, and im probably going to use an F911 1/2 bolt setup in double shear, so no worries there either. Ill probably just go ahead and order the spindles from lonestar. It would be cheaper and much easier than buying the right alloy and turning it down. Then ill only have to press them in and forget it. What about the steering? I need to incorporate some geometry corrections to minimize bumpsteer, but those should probably made at the steering stem. Ideas?

Well the tap drill size is .6875. I think that should put up to may more force than will ever be seen by my bike. I guess I could model it? Im downloading Catia V5. Hopefully that will have some FEA stuff so I can be real sure.

I believe so as well. I hear things.

I too got mine for free, brand new out of the box. Retail is ~$950.00 for the pair.

SO that I can run a .750 Heim with a hi-mis spacer to .500 for a total of 34* of mis-alignment. Plus they will be loaded radially instead of axially. This means the only thing limiting my travel are the tie rods.

Ya, that would be nice. The new shocks are going to that fork type lower mounts, so just maybe the 450 shock if what youre lookin for. However, the resi mounts the right side, so clearance may be an issue. In solidwork im doing OK at this point and extrusion thing. So when I model my new spindle should I put it together as an assembly? Or try to do it all in one piece? I dont really know the limits of the prog, so IM not real sure.