squish

So you cut the arm mounts and added washers to take up the space? The top fit but are flipped basically backwards to yfz right?

He just rebuilt my axis shocks with synthetic shock fluid. I cant say enough about how good they are now. He also did the back stock shock and it was 200% better. As far as the way my bike handles now I would say he is talented. I have called him several times from different races to get suggestions on shock adjustments and he is right on.

I did it years ago on stock front end. I found a plastic plug and used epoxy to keep it in. Just drilled holes on the other side. I noticed alot more feed back in the handle bars. Extending the from the spindle only gives a slight increase in the travel arc. Longer a arms is the ticket.

Diesel would work. I was part of a project that was looking for an alternative to current drone engines in 1994. Military wanted a more fuel efficient engine. We machined a head that only left .0015 gap between piston and head. The head had an adjustable piston in it that could advance and retard timing. No spark plug but timing needed adjusting every time after start. Once warmed up timing could be advanced back for max rpm. The main problem with this was the fuel. Pump diesel had to be mixed with nitro. Actually same stuff r/c cars use more up around 35% range. I remember kerosene and jp-4 to work best. Barometric pressure and Outside temp played a big role in specific gravity on fuel mixing so end result was a pain in the ass for coming up with the right fuel for the motor for that day.

link Read what it says about the banshee.

Its too bad you cant get a keg to fit under the gas tank. Weld a couple of little tubes to it. Imagine the power increase.

They are great.

Trying to save someone the aggravation of installing a shock designed for a much narrower front end and different a arm shock mount location. Now if you

NO NO NO do not buy yfz front shocks. Yes they are an upgrade over stock so is a brand new stock shock over one that has 10 hours on it. Just buy some used works off ebay and send them to shane with your rear shock. Save your self a bunch of money.

He doesnt know. Thats why he asked.

100% Junk

call shane

Used to be ugly arms. All junk. In the case of a arms you get what you pay for.

I do not recomend -2. The -1 I do recomend though. I have tried both. I have the same arm but with stock carrier. I race it. Holds up good.

I had a -2 swing arm awhile and didnt like the loss of travel. Went to a -1. I raced my banshee in harescrambles for two years and liked that setup the best. Turns nice through the trees. I used noss steering stabilizer sold my sloppy gpr. I sent my rear shock to shane 200% better. The +2 +1 arms and -1 swing arm made a real nice center of gravity set up.

You have any 250r coolheads laying around David?

call shane

call shane

Itp hds are junk. I have them on my r and have about 6 plugs in them.

Ive used the klaws on ten hare scrambles no problems.

where can I get a boost bottle?

shock is too long. It allows the arms to travel beyond what they were intended for. Even on the heim joints the spherical ball will turn past the case wich will allow dirt in between. I have a t pin front end on my r I didnt go out and buy 30 inch shocks because it will travel that far. A longer shock doesnt always mean better ride.

Yes junk. Save your money. Or just buy some used works and send them to shane.

I tried the -2 and seemed a little to much for woods riding. I went with a -1 that helped alot with turning through the trees and straight line hook up. You do loose travel as your arc becomes less. You will notice it a little. Just send your shock to shane to have it done right with your set up.

Just got my axis shocks back from shane. He did a phenomenal job. Also rebuilt my w.e.r. stabilizer.