oldturtle

Sounds like the pilot jets are plugged. You need to remove float bowls and pull pilot jets and look thru them to be sure they are clean. If not, blow them out or use carb cleaner. This is normally the first thing to check if no other mods have been made in the meantime since it started fine before. If this is the problem, then Sta-bil fuel stabilizer will prevent this from happening again. Good luck.

Rec'm you ride her stock until you can get a set of pipes and air filter. IMO other mods mentioned may not be worth the hassle with stock pipes and filter. Ebay has many deals on used pipes and filters. There are many HQ members with extra sets of pipes sitting around who may jump in here with offers.

Here is the drill for beginners on any two stroke bike or quad. Give it a little gas and then slowly feather out the clutch only until she starts to move. Then without anymore clutch slowly add gas and you will have a smooth start. Do not try to fully realease clutch untill completelly underway. I have taught many novices and this drill of only half clutch works fine. Take it easy until you get the feel. Do not try to learn on pavement. Oh ya, helmet and health insurance.

I will start up and vary RPM for a couple minutes then start out riding very easy until it will respond to throttle willingly. When she is telling you she is ready only then do you hammer her. The best warm up is riding with gradually increasing power. Also push in choke as soon as possible. The two things to avoid are (1) wringing out a cold motor while sitting in order to "clean it out" and (2) anything near the main jet until fully warmed up.

Thanks for opinions. Elevation is sea level.

I bought my first Banshee last month. Runs fine and makes enough power for me. I cannot hear any sound of piston slap or other sound of impending disaster. I just ran compression test and have 105 psi on both sides. We checked twice with two different gages throttle open and got identical results. I hate to mess with it since it pulls hard and is such a kick to ride. It starts very easy. However if I am on the verge of breaking a piston skirt I should pull it down and take a look see. So how low can you go with compression on stock motor before you should do a top end as preventive maintenance even though you are OK with the power.

I would not rec'm degreaser on the tires. Could harm the rubber. I just use dish detergent and elbow grease. Works just fine all over. And be sure and stay away from pressure washers. They will screw up bushings, bearings, and seals in a hurry. I spray WD on shock shafts, all pivots, and chain before running. Then start up and run enough to dry everything out. If you don't like WD on your chain use anything but get it on right away because otherwise chain will start to rust. If you can't ride the bike to dry out at least use an air blower to dry out. Do not just wash it and park it.

I keep coming back to this thread waiting to see the negatives of lightening the flywheel. How about hearing from the novice trail rider that had it done or don't we have any on this site. I added a flywheel weight to my KTM250EXC to make it more controlable in the gnarly wet log and rocky stuff I ride that bike in. Granted the shee will never see that stuff while under my sorry ass.

Do your motor a really big favor and AAAALLLWWAAAAAAAYSSS oil your foam air filter. Best to use genuine foam filter specific oil. Its tacky and does a great job on very fine dust particles. If you do not want to buy expensive foam filter oil then at the very least use 80 or 90 weight gear oil. I just cannot believe anyone on this site would not lube their air filters. Sorry but the thought makes my shee cry and me too.

I think it is never good idea to trust the dealer to have set it up right. So anything that could damaged the motor needs to be double checked by you. Whatever you have for air filter make sure it is secure and lubed. Make sure tranny is full. Check coolant level. Check air intake from air box to carb is tight. Check that spark plugs are at proper torque. In other words do not trust anyone. Also good idea to go over all fasteners after a very short warm up ride and then again soon after. Enjoy.

Someone on here tapped the right side of left carb and left side of right carb. Not good.

Here is a site with all answer pro taper dimensions;http://www.teamcc.com/dlrindexsend_pg_catprod_levelcode_5983_catalogcode_776_partheadernumber_61897-PRO+TAPER%AE+Handlebars.htm

Value of used Banshee is all in the location. Where the hell are you located? It would have to be an acceptional location to be worth $2.9K. Maybe in the Persian Gulf.

May 2004

Pre-ban clips fit right into the Mini14. I have a couple 30 rounders. But it still is not worth a damm for home defense unless you are defending a garage that is 100 yards away where most hand guns and short shot guns are not accurate enough. Re question on Mini14 jamming, I never had problem. However I have had problem with jamming with Ruger 10-22 when I bought cheap ammo. So I imagine the Mini14 could jam with low power or inconsistant ammo. Rugers like good fresh consistant ammo.

I also own a Stainless Steel Scoped Mini 14 Ranch and it is fantastic for my use but I would not recommend for home defense. Get a good hand gun or a short barrel pump 12 gauge. Hearing the loud click-click of chambering a 12 gauge round will get anyone running the hell outa there in a heart beat.

I just came across another site with personal experience using amp link. http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/core.html Check it out on questions and answers.

Fixitrod; Thanks for great tip and very good site.

You stole it with all that work he put into it.

White Brothers has sold Mikuni jets in the past. Prob still do. Toomey sell jet kits but where I checked did not include pilots. I'd call them both. If they don't have what you want they might tell you where to check.

Ga day mate. I don't see any good arguments to get an air cooled engine for a Banshee spare. I don't think it would be near as reliable as a water cooled. You wouldn't have many options for head mods. You would sure have something different if that is really important to you.

Pilot and main jets have number stamped on side or bottom. Stock pilot size is 25, next is 27.5 then 30. The needle clip position is important but it cannot compensate altogether for incorrect main and pilot. Toomey's are probably the most popular pipe on this forum. If you bought a set of T5 or T6 Toomey's they would also give you advice on where to start with the jetting and I believe they will sell whatever jets they recommend. Toomey is a very respected pipe builder I think you could trust their advice. I have FMF Gnarly pipes because they came with the used bike and give a little better low end than Toomey's but lose out on the top. I requested jetting info from FMF and all I got was BS. Another idea would be to first deceide if you are going to install pipes now or not. Then re-ask for jetting opinions on the jetting topic list. I think the best jetting minds are not seeing your question and are not getting in on this. Include elev and temperatures you normally ride at. Good luck.

With K&N, no snorkle, and some carving on air box lid you are way too lean. Depending on exactly what the air box lid situation is, correct jetting now is main 260 to 310, pilot 27.5, adjust air screw. Start rich and work down. With most pipes you would be at 330 to 390 on mains and 30 to 32.5 pilot, air screw. Start rich again. No way to tell you exactly where to be. The 400 to 420 are probably too fat. If you are thinking about pipes then get them now and only rejet once with pipes and air filters. This should take care of the bog. Regarding the reving out while stopped, this is common problem. Some have cured this by cleaning carb slides very well and not allowing any throttle cable lube to get into the slides. Most on this site will also rec'm that TORS be removed. First rec'm you study jetting FAQ's on downloads here. This explains jetting and TORS. Also don't ride anymore until you get things richened up. You could fry the top end. And welcome to Banshee HQ. Usually a lot of old hands jump right in on questions like yours. They more than likely are recuperating from a weekend bash. Now you will probably here some different opinions from some of our real experts.

Rebel has the right idea. Clean it so it sparkles. A lot of buyers don't have a clue what to check for and would never notice anything. You are not obligated to spill your guts either. Loose stuff can be considered normal wear and tear. If you put add in paper ask for 2950 OBO, If ebay put a reserve at 2500. You should get it. Now is right time of year to get good price.

Here is a different opinion for what its worth. The Amp Link is considered obsolete technology by most chassis and suspension builders and tuners. ATK motorcycles first come out with this in the mid 80's because a guy named Horst Leightner (spell?) invented the amp link and he was designer of ATK's. They also had a goofy countershaft mounted rear disc brake. Neither system worked as well as planned and where soon deleted. At this time rear shock absorber design was not up to current standards. The Amp Link causes the upper and lower chain run to be parallel with the swingarm. Chain tension forces are transfered directly up the swingarm into the frame. If chain is not parallel with swingarm then a small component of chain tension forces finds its way into the rear suspension effecting how the rear suspension reacts under acceleration. Rear shocks with adjustable rebound and compression damping can be tuned to handle these forces under acceleration. The rear shock settings just need to be adjusted differently with or without the Amp Link system. I believe it was the big technology gain in rear shock absorbers that made the amp link obsolete. I have never ridden motorcycle or quad with the Amp Link so have no direct evidence. However since all factories are not using and most chassis/suspension tuners are not using there must be a reason. I believe the reason is the claimed performance gains are not there.