oldturtle

Plugged pilot jets are very common reason for hard starting. Especially if it runs eventually. Could have been caused from sitting all winter and gas in floats goes bad and plugs pilots. Needle jets and mains are larger and will pass bad gas much easier.

Hello Rain Man. I see this is your first post and that you joined today. Glad to have you. Lots of very good info here and even a little bit of BS to sort thru. Have fun.

Hey 01Blue Screaming Banshee, What gives here? Yesterday you were asking questions if Banshee could be ridden in cold and wet/rain. Then you are asking how to clean off mud stains. Next you ask about value of used Banshee and now you are offering your 01 for sale. Go ahead and tell us the story, please. Did you have a little problem in the mud. Just dont tell us you got roosted by a Honda. Inquiring minds want to know.

If anyone thinks this question is strange, I have several friends who believe riding in a little sand will absolutely ruin their dirt bikes. Yet these same guys will ride all day in mud so thick you can't find the chain when they get home. To each his own.

Gar, The TwinAir foam filter is one of the very best foam filters you can get. This filters dust and fine particles much better than K&N. The only negative is that it is more restrictive than K&N. So if you really want more power, are ready and able to re-jet your carbs, and do not ride in the dust then K&N is good. Otherwise keep TwinAir.

LIAN, Rec'm you do yourself a really big favor and study the jetting FAQ info right here on HQ. Go to downloads, FAQ, and jetting. Then all the good info these guys are going to give you will be understandable. If not interested in learning about jetting then take it to the dealer.

I had same type of wide open miss on dirt bike and after a lot of hair pulling it turned out to be a partially plugged up spark arrestor screen. If you have the screen type SA might be worth a look.

www.graydonproline.com

Check out www.gutsracing.com. Located in Placerville, Calif. Good work and good price.

Now we can all believe it. Congratulations

Another opinion for what its worth. Cranks have failed with only pipes and moderate porting. If crank lets go you could be looking at 750 to 1000 in repairs including wasting a good bore and piston. For about 150 in parts you can get welded/trued crank, gaskets, and seals. For another 175 you can get crank installed. Then never again worry about crank for life of quad. For me, I'd consider two options; 1) Have Unkle help with a good but cheaper top end only job. Forget about porting, cool heads, reeds, etc until later when you get around to swapping out the crank. Or; 2) Get top end with porting, have heads milled and blueprinted to match gas you want to run, swap out crank. Now in future you could add reeds or whatever and mods would help and motor would still be reliable. I have never done a bottom end but I have been told they are a piece of cake. If your Unkle is good, he could even think about doing it all. Now you would really have a strong and realiable motor for no more than the shop top end only. These prices could be out of line but I think they give you the idea. I think it would be interesting to here from anyone who has lost a crank and what were the engine modifications at the time. I'm a real rooky at all of this and very interested in learning more.

My favorite is black and white with a little red or maroon trim. Black and white not listed so I voted for all black(the closest).

Just heard rumor that Honda is coming out in 05 with closed course race quad powered by CR250R. Is this just BS wish list from some Honda dealer pissed cause the YFZ is selling so well or could it be. OK, some dealer in Oregon told this to my brother this morning.

Hi Kev, I was really looking hard at your 02 Patriot. One very sweet looking black and white. Even contacted Dan at Patriot to get educated. But then on Sunday some smart buyer knew what you had and jumped on it 3 days before closing. Well, you snooze you lose and I sure did. Good luck with your bike and from the sounds of things probably a YFZ in your future.

Welcome CS. For some neat videos check out www.dunereview.com.

Otis, OK, I see what you are talking about, and thanks for the education. Ohlins sure sells a lot of stuff.

Josh, This thread is getting personal. Where do you live and will you be spending most of your time in the curves? The hardest thing to learn about curves is how to judge you correct entry speed so that you can stay on the gas all the way thru the curve. Anything over 100 HP and your learning curve is flat. 600'S are between 90 and 100 HP which is perfect. I guess most Banshee sand and flat riders are too used to more is always better when it comes to horsepower but that just isn't the case on two wheels. I'm sure Texas will enjoy the rush of 150 HP in the straights. And you cannot really argue against a 750 either. There just isn't a big selection of 750s. I think you can't go wrong with a good clean HON F2, ride it one year, don't crash it, and sell it for more than you paid. Then deceide for yourself what you want. And save some of that hard earned money for the Shee.

Anyone familiar with how a Patriot Racing "Duner" porting spec job along with 21cc shaved heads is for reliability compared to stock ports and compression. Also running T5's and V-force. Any problems with pump gas? Is jetting for different elevations and temps any more critical? Is Patriots work consistantly good? Thanks a lot.

Otis, I just noticed a picture of an Olins damper on Honda's Baja winning TRX450R. This Ohlins is just exactly some as Scotts damper that we buy here. See page 38 in April 04 ATV Rider. If yours is same as Ohlins on the 450R, then I am quite sure the $130 mount kit from Scotts Performance will work. Could be however that Ohlins has different variations of their damper and yours might be different.

SB07 is right on about how good the 600's really are. Also there are so many great used 600's for sale. You can't go wrong with any Honda F2 or F3. These models have all the high tech fully adjustable suspension and they are just a very short click behind the latest models in top end plus they have more on the bottom.I could not recommend any of the Duck's, not familiar enough. Just stay away from the 1000's. Yamaha is right there also but I just am not too familiar with various models.

You might want to check out www.dunereview.com and look up St. Anthony, Idaho. From Pennsylvania to Oregon you could plan a route that goes right thru. Big sand and small crowds. Also Christmas Valley, Oregon and Little Sahara, Utah are not too far out of the way if you have the time.

I believe I heard somewhere that the manufacturing rights for the Scotts stabilizer were purchased from Ohlins. If this is true then maybe the Scotts mounts might work. I have a Scotts stabilizer that I switch between two dirt bikes. Scotts has a mounting kit for about $130 to mount the Scotts on the Banshee. Give Scotts Performance a call and pick their brain.

I don't think an 80 lb rider would be overheating a properly jetted Banshee with cooling system operating correctly. So first look at jetting. If too lean it's going to run hot. Were carbs correctly rejetted for K&N's? Then carefully inspect and flush out cooling system. We have had many posts here that "cool heads" may not really have much to do with keeping things cool. IMO, an 80 pound rider probably doesn't need aftermarket pipes either. You should consider having your son run stock pipes for some time until he gets bigger and really learns to handle the Banshee. He also might stay healthier. Now if we are talking about a 200 lb father, why didn't you say so in the first place? We understand that.

I started using STA-BIL gas stabilizer several years ago because I was having regular problems with pilot jet plugging on Grandsons KX60. Started using STA-BIL and no more pilot problems. Also use it in weed eaters, blowers. and chain saws. I try to mix up no more than I need for that trip. When next ride comes around, maybe 3 months later, I just top off tank with fresh mix and not worry about the old stuff in the tank and carbs. You could also drain the tank and float bowls and dump into the truck but that is too much work for me. Not good idea to run old untreated premix thru the 2-stroke.

When displacenent is limited by rules such as with 125 and 250cc motocross bikes power valves will provide some bottom end while still allowing the motor to have all the top end you need. When displacement is not limited by rules such as with the Banshee or with certain vet and old timer MX classes power improvements are much more effective by increasing bore or stroke with appropriate carb, compression, porting, and timing. I think power valves on a Banshee can only be justified if you want something different and don't mind paying much more and getting much less.