oldturtle

The 35 will be better if you should do other engine mods in future. Also to save a lot of headache do not get the carb to air box adaptor. The design is poor. Installation is difficult. Removal at later date is a nightmare. Just junk the air box and use clamp on filter with outerwears and you will be a happy camper.

Thanks for info, have been waiting to hear results. It is kinda sad about the ups and downs of his career. With his talent he could have been much more.

Hockey, I filed only the outside of raised lip on carb until it would slip into O-ring of adaptor but I cannot slide it in all the way to the stop because then it would not clamp onto the rubber boot on intake manifold. I didn't shorten the carb any. I just think it's a poor design. Trinity had 195 main, 52 pilot, and clip in middle slot when carb arrived and that was their recommendation. With the 52 pilot I had to run air screw out aver 3 turns so switched to 55 pilot with air screw out 2 1/2 turns. I also moved needle clip to 4th from top. Left main at 195. It runs great from bottom to top only I havn't been able to get a good run in 5th or higher gear to get a good main jet plug check. I might wind up bigger on the main. All the extra jets were included with the kit.

I installed Trinity CV 35 kit with air box O-ring billet adaptor between carb and air box. Fit up was very poor. The rubber boot on intake manifold, the carb inlet and outlet spigets, and airbox adaptor would not line up properly. I even shimmed under the rear of air box but this only slightly improved alignment. I also filed off the hump in the rear of carb inlet spiget per Trinity inst. to fit into O-ring adaptor. Finally, the manifold rubber boot is only partially clamped onto carb outlet and the carb inlet is not all the way into the air box O-ring adaptor. This is best I could get and it held together for a couple days of riding but I am concerned for the long haul. Trinity denies ever having a problem like this before and suspects that my frame has been tweaked or altered. I am second owner and don't have full history but frame sure looks original. Trinity says they have sold hundreds of these billet air box adaptors and have never had problem. So have any of you tried Trinity's air box adaptor and if so how was the fit? By the way, I love the way the bike performes. It is a one kick starter and goes like stink. I love it. I am on the verge of removing the air box all together but wanted to get opinions first. I also am running a K&N with pro-flow adaptor, outerwears, and no lid. I just felt this would give more filter protection plus I would have the option to install lid for cool night riding or in wet conditions. Thanks.

I broke the rear mounting tab on fenders where fenders bolt to rear of tank. Has anyone heard of a plastic repair for this type of plastic? I would like to avoid spending $100 for another used fender that I will probably break again anyway. I live in Northern Calif in the event anyone has name of repair shop. Thanks for help.

I just posted topic on Tips and Tricks about my recent Banshee overhaul trials and tribulations. So first thing after getting it broke in is to head to Oregon Dunes with my brother and his Polaris 400 Trail Blazer 2-stroke 2WD, his Polaris 500 Scrambler 4-stroke 2WD/4WD, and my freshly built Banshee with new Sandstars front and rear. His 400 also had new Sandstars while the 500 ran stock knobbies. He wanted to be prepared in case my Banshee broke down we would still have something to ride. The first 2 days we rode at Winchester Bay (Umpqua Dunes), site of the tallest dunes in Oregon. The first day I took things really easy. I wanted to carefully get the motor broke in correctly since I only had a few hours of easy dirt riding on the motor when I arrived. The second day we started out to the dunes and pass by this hill the locals have named "Banshee Hill". Well my brother is much more experienced on quads than me and he thought he should give Banshee Hill a go. This hill is fairly steep, not like the backs of the big dunes but still semi-steep. The hill looks much worse than it really is. It is actually an uphill trail that connects 2 dune areas, it is very wide at the top and bottom but narrow in the middle of the hill with a slight left and then right turn in the middle and about 8 feet wide at the narrowest with trees and stumps on each side. My brother is concerned about having enough power with his 400 Trail Blazer so I offer him my Banshee. He accepts. First pass at the hill no problem. He pulls it very easily but fast in 2nd gear. Second pass at the hill he is not so fortunate. Right at the beginning of the left turn the front end comes up, he looses steering, and he plows straight ahead into a 12 inch stump at edge of trail. Banshee stops immediatly and he goes over bars. He is OK, Banshee is not. With help of other rider they drag broken bike down hill with dangeling front right wheel. A Polaris rider from Montana has a rope and lashes the Banshee bumper to rear rack so front wheels are off ground and he tows us back to camp. Looks like we need right front wheel and tie-rod ends. We find parts at Yamaha dealer in North Bend. Get back to camp and install wheel and tie-rod and then discover that the front wheel is now about 2 inches in at the top, A arms are bent, paint is cracked at A arm mounts, tank cover is broken at rear mounting bolt, and not sure what else. So Banshee goes on trailer for rest of trip. The third day we made a big loop from Spinreel staging out to beach, down beach to Bull Run, then back along Bull Run Dunes and trails to Spinreel. Then we rode from Horsefall staging area to Hauser Rd and back. The fourth day we rode from South Jetty staging near Florence. I was really amazed at the tremendous variety of terrain at the different areas. Winchester Bay has the monster dunes with very steep back sides, occaisionly forming a narrow ridge on top too narrow to ride. You dont want to fly over these. Florence/South Jetty has moderate dunes and many sand trails thru the trees. It would take years to learn the trails at South Jetty. South Jetty also has many very hazardous sand swirls and drop offs that you can't see untill you get right up to them. I would not want to send a bunch of novice kids out there. This area also has the big bus tours that meander across the dunes with maybe 25 passengers and also has fast dune buggy tours with maybe 4 passengers. Lots of activity here. I think I preffered the variety of terrain between Spinreel and Horsefall the best. For a novice rider out to survive and have a great ride this is hard to beat. The area just north of Horsfall staging seems fairly safe for young and beginning riders. I can't wait to get back. I have ordered a set of Ricky-Stator +2 & + 5/8 A-arms. I am looking for a plastic welder near-by for the broken tank cover. I will hold off on new shocks until I see if I really need them. Money is getting sparse. Still have not taken a close look at the frame welds.

I bought 2000 Banshee in March and only had one ride and that was cut short due rain at Oregon dunes. Got home, checked comp and only had 105 psi both sides. Sent barrels and head to Patriot for their bore with Wisco piston, hot trail porting and full head deck and dome for pump gas ( 21mm equiv). While waiting I deceided to go with the Trinity single 35 mm carb set-up. Trinity offers either an adaptor to use stock air box or a clamp on filter with no air box. Graydon-Proline only offers clamp on with no air box. So I get the Trinity air box adaptor plus a pro-flow clamp-on adaptor for inside the air box. My idea on keeping the air box was it will give more protection for filter plus I would have the option to use lid if necessary to richen mixture on cool evening dune rides. My present set up is FMF Gnarly and Quiet Core 2, K&N with outerwears and no lid, 195 main, 55 pilot, clip 4th from top. I ran about 3 gallons thru her, breaking in motor per Patriot recm. Now I am just getting to point where I can start turning it on. I am very impressed with the hit. It will pull nicely at low throttle when cruising yet will really hit with authority when you want to, a huge improvement over my worn out stock motor. Only had 2 problems. First problem is that the adaptor from air box to single 35 mm carb is really a poor fit. I had to shim up the rear of air box about 1/4 inch to get even close to having the carb line up with rubber boot in front and billet adaptor in rear. Rubber boot not all the way up on carb and rear of carb not all the way into O-ring adaptor. Phoned Trinity and they claimed that they have sold hundreds of these air box adaptors and have never had a complaint. Hard for me to accept with all the problems I had. But it is holding together. It just looks like it could come apart anytime. In hindsite I believe I should have gone with the straight clamp on with no air box. So I would sure like to hear from some of the hundreds of Trinity air box adaptor purchasers about how their air box/ adaptor/ carb all fit up. Second problem was with a tree stump at Winchester Bay, Oregon on only second day of riding. I hope to get report on Dune topic list about broken tie-rod ends, totally ruined wheel, bent A-arms, and not sure what else.

What? Sand Mountain is only 90 miles east of Reno.

Dan's the man at; http://www.patriotracing.net/ He is a great engine builder but he is also very good at helping you deceide what your options are and what exactly you really want and need.

While you are checking the float height you need to make sure the pilot jets are clean. If you need to squirt in extra gas to get it to start then pilots could be plugged. Pull the float bowls, remove pilot jets, and check visually to be sure they are open. Otherwise blow them out.

Pull the swingarm pivot bolt, lube swing arm bearings and anti-sieze the entire bolt. If you are lucky you can get it out without ruining the bolt. Pull A-arm pivot bolts and anti-sieze. Lube all grease fittings.

Check this amp link item. http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/faq/94.html

Hey TR. This may help you understand final gearing I hope. Stock 400EX final drive is 15t front, 38t rear and with a 20 in. rear tire. Stock final drive ratio is 38/15=2.53. Now if you want to put on a 25 in. rear tire and keep the overall same gear to speed ratio, then new final drive ratio=2.53(25/20)=3.16. So you would need to pick a combination of sprockets to give a final drive ratio of about 3.16. One combination would be 13t front and 41t rear. Final ratio=41/13=3.16. So a 15t/38t/20in will have exactly same speed/acceleration as a 13t/41t/25in. I have ignored fact that actual tire outside diameters may not be exactly 20in. and 25in. but this is the drill. To be accurate you need to get correct outside tire diams and plug into formulas. This also ignores that with bigger rear tires you probably would want to gear down some. Ya I know, I always put my students to sleep.

Look here. http://shop.store.yahoo.com/pitposse/progrlesk.html

There are always lots of used fenders on Ebay. If you can BE PATIENT and keep looking you can find anything you want. Front and rear used all stock usually go for $150 to $200 total for both. Race cuts usually go for less.

I have owned only one half ton pickup and have owned six 3/4 ton pickups or vans. Now own a 3/4 ton Dodge.pickup and one ton Dodge van. I will never go back to a half ton truck. Even though the half ton may meet the load and towing ratings, you are always better with tougher, stronger components. Everything lasts longer like brakes, tires, front end, transmision, even motor because the half ton is geared taller and the engine has to work harder. Only time the half ton is any good is when driving around empty you save gas. Better to buy another small car or a bike and leave the truck parked.

Thanks to Yamaha for not slacking off on 2-stroke development. I just read on Yamaha USA site that the 05 YZ250 2-stroke is 10 pounds lighter, has perimeter aluminum frame, and is more powerfull. The 05 YZ125 2-stroke is 8 pounds lighter, also has perimeter aluminum frame and is more powerful. There are also proposals for 2-stroke only national M-X events now that the starting grids are loaded with 4-strokes especially in 125 class. Go YAMAHA. They could really build one hell of a Banshee with all the new technology if they would only try.

Was Shee running good just before rebuild and did you make any other changes that could effect jetting during the rebuild?

Are you saying that accidents are more common with twist throttle? My Banshee is my first ever quad after years of dirtbike riding and I switched to twist so I don't have to re-learn the throttle. I just did not like the hesitation while my brain figured out you could not twist the damn thing. Seems like for me the twist will be safer but who knows?

The Banshee looks very plain with stock pipes and front fenders. Add a nice set of pipes and cut the front elephant ears and the Banshee goes from very low to 1st in looks. No other sport quad can be transformed so easily.

What? Who said that? According to the HQ jetting FAQS, going to K&N requires up 4 to 6 sizes on main and up 1 on pilot and adjust air screw. Removing snorkle requires up 0 to 2 sizes on main. These recomendations could be conservative but you will need to rejet now and then again later when you install pipes. Or you could leave it parked. Am I missing something here? Help needed.

I recently looked into shipping a Banshee but then changed plans. Shipping quotes from Chicago to San Francisco varied from $250 to $600. The $250 quote was based on you getting the Banshee crated equivalent to factory to dealer crating and then delivering the crated Banshee to a trucking terminal in Chicago. You then need to arrange for picking up the crate at the receiving terminal and hauling to new owner. No pick-up or delivery and no crating for $250. The $600 quote was an outfit that pickes up quad at home, ships without crate in special motorcycle hauling semi, and then delivers to a home. For around $400 to $500 you can get a crated quad picked up at a commercial site, hauled cross country, and delivered to a commercial site. No home pick-up or delivery and no crating. So if you can arrange crating and hauling to a nearby trucking terminal, the actual haul cost cross country is very reasonable.

I know it is very crowded. All campgrounds are most likely booked up. However it is a big area and you can always find good riding. There is beach camping available without reservations so I have been told. I know that at the entrance to the dunes just south of Winchester Bay they have about a mile of overflow overnight camping and then you can drive a few miles south to the day use only staging areas. The northwest has had a lot of rain this spring and if the weather is clear the crowds will show up.

Really sorry to hear about this. Oops,excuse me. Shredish doesn't like the use of sorry. So then I'm not happy to hear about this. The good thing is that he has a loving family to help and care thru the recovery period. The sad thing is that he has a loving family who has to worry thru the recovery period. You have my sincerest wishes for a very speedy recovery.

Not the same. Eureka Dunes are in the bottom of Death Valley and off limits. Dumont Dunes are between Barstow and Las Vegas and about 30 miles north of Baker. And by the way I got more info on dune heights. Looks like Dumont Dunes are taller than Glamis Dunes. One source said Competition Hill at Dumont is 480 feet. I really need to go ride these places and then I might know a little more about what I'm talking about. My intentions are good even though my knowledge isn't.