oldturtle

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For the complete rear end to come loose you must not be correctly torquing the two rear axle housing to swing arm bolts. The upper should be 88 ft lb and the lower should be 44 ft lb. I need help to get these torqued correctly. Another trick is to use some type of wooden handle tool between chain and sprocket and rotate rear axle backwards to hold chain tight while tightening the upper and lower bolts. This will hold the two chain adjusting bolts tight against the axle housing. You will still be able to turn the two chain adjust bolts in about 1/8 turn without moving anything. You probably should locktite the two chain adjust lock nuts but I never need to.

I run twist on Banshee and it is big improvement for me over the stock thumb. When I got the 400EX I had plans to convert to twist but the thumb works so well on the Honda plus it is much better sealed than a twist so I have deceided to keep the thumb. No problem bouncing back and forth between twist and thumb.

What I would really like to see is three dyno runs on exact same motor. One with stock carbs, one with single 35. and one with dual 28's or maybe dual 30's. Motor should be one that is close to what many guys here run. Motor should be limited to pipes, K&N, moderate compression bump for pump premium, and possibly moderate porting and timing mods. I love my single 35 but I added this at same time as I did other motor work so I don't know how much of the gain to attribute to the carb. And I have since had 2 engine builders ( Patriot Racing and Adrenaline Powersports) claim to me that all the single 35 gives is ease of jetting, no carb sync to worry about, and consistant easy starting and smooth idleing. I can also say that my set up will cruise around with decent low end before the hit and when you are ready hang on cause it's gonna hit hard.

We always have JB weld or other brand (MSR Racing is good) with us on extended dual sport motorcycle rides. We have had to repair cases many times while out in the sticks usually from crash damage and we have always made it home safely. Usually owners forget about the emergency repair and never have a problem. If you take your time and really clean the break you should be good FOREVER. By the way I just installed a trick TM Designs plastic case saver on my Banshee at same time as my extended swing arm and it sure looks like it will do the job.

30 degrees cooler will get more air into motor and make bike run leaner so that could account for extra power if you were rich before. My experience with K&N filter lube is that if you apply too much it will just drip off until the correct amount remains so I doubt if lubing filter changed anything. My WAG is that the smoking is normal 2 stroke exhaust that wasn't noticed before. (WAG = wild as_ guess). Play it safe and do a plug check.

Martinez, California here. My Shee is strictly a duner. For dirt days around here I am strictly on 2 wheels. I do go to Carnigie during the week and up to Fouts Springs on weekends. I have had my 400EX to Carnigie but I think many of the hills and trails would be a real handfull on a Shee. Its much more suitable for a dirt bike unless you are either one hell of a rider or a glutton for punishment.

I agree with Shredish that you need to check that chain adjustment. The only safe way is to compress the suspension all the way and check tension through the full travel. Also you should think about getting a good case saver like the TM Designs non metal version.

There is your answer. Keep the old truck while still going to school. The Banshee will not depreciate anymore so good to keep it also unless you need the cash for school expenses. But your first priority needs to be school and postpone the big ticket expenses like a new truck until after school.

We had a topic on here several months ago about what was the most fun quad to ride when you wanted off the Banshee or had enough adreniline pump for awhile. I was surprised to see the popularity of the 400EX. Great for just cruising around, doing wheelies, jumping. all around fun ride. In fact this post was a big factor when I wanted another quad to go along with the Shee and I bought a 400EX. My grandkids ages 14 and 12 have a great time on the 400EX but they have been riding dirt bikes for years. And it will pull some very tall/steep dunes box stock even with stock tires just get down to around 2.5psi. Just don't be getting into any drags. And now they can be bought brand new for $4500 plus tax and licence.

The hot setup for that frame is to throw on a CBR600F2 front end. You get dual discs and fully adjustable cartridge forks plus it bolts right up.

I have brand new Big Gun silencer, header pipes, and quiet core for 99-04 Honda 400EX. I got carried away when I bought 400 and picked up pipes but now I need the cash more than the pipes. There is no spark arrestor included that I can see although quiet core does have large mesh screen over end. There are no gaskets or O-rings so if yours are no good you may need new parts here. Pipes have some minor scratches due to hanging around on shop racks for awhile, otherwise in new condition. $250 + shipping.

Hi united, I can't answer on how to measure to determine which A-arm is bent. But if you can't see anything bent and if you can get wheel straight by adjusting tie-rod then I think you should keep yours. My right arms were bent so that the wheel was way in at the top and tie-rod adjusting can't help that. So I went with adjustable +2 A-arms because frame was also tweaked a little and now I have full adjustability. Anyway, I have sold the left lower arm and now only have left upper that I am sure is straight. Good luck.

$280 seems high if you dont know what you are getting. A brand new pair of Fattys can be had for $300 w/o silencers if you shop around.

And remember that you can always come back and cut off more but its pretty tuff to put some back. And plan to do the final 1/16 inch +/- with a course file to get cut near perfect.

I definitely must dissagree on this one. Banshees are not the best thing out there for every situation and this sure sounds like one of them. I think you would be very happy with a 400EX for your type of riding, your age, size, and experience. I love my Shee in the sand but don't have the balls, the skill, or the interest to take it anywhere else.

I sure love this forum. I received a PM to check out Adrenaline Power Sports in Sacramento. They had everything I needed in stock, the extended SW on exchange, new chain, and brakeline. Shee is back together and good to go. Many thanks. By the way Adrenaline is actually a Polaris dealer but most of their business is with Banshees, shop work and aftermarket parts. I believe they are regulars at Sand Mountain, Nev.

Anyone have need for left side upper and lower A-arms and tie rod. Right side is pretzeled. Have replaced all with aftermarked adjustable A-arms. Off very low hour 2000.

Never cut Banshee foam, seat is too low for me anyway, but have worked on many dirt bike seat foams to get them just right for me. I have tried an electric carving knife but it is too crude and not very smooth. Now I just use a long coarse wood rasp and go very slow to make sure you are level and even. Works great for me.

Just returned from Oregon dunes and have deceided I can really use a longer swingarm. Would like to go +4, will still turn, my motor is not overkill hot, plus I can use stock brake line. I found a good shop in Portland area but was wondering if anyone knows of a shop in Northern Cal, anywhere from Bakersfield to Redding would be a good road ride to get work done. Otherwise it's off to Portland. Thanks for help.

I installed +2"/+5/8" Ricky Stator A-arms and got by with using stock brake lines. I also did one trip to Winchester Bay Dunes with stock shocks (5th position) and with smooth and dry sand got by OK though shocks will be replaced soon.

This may help with the overflow hose routing since you already have it off. This mod puts the reservoir up front. Check it out. http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html

Hey P559, Just hanging out, riding street bikes mainly while my leg recouperates. I am leaving Monday for another go at the Oregon Dunes, This time 3 days at Winchester Bay. Will try to keep the Shee together this trip.

Tore up right front of 2000 Shee in June. Had to buy 2 tie rod ends, new A-arms Ricky Stator +2/+5/8 with longer tie rods, new stock steering stem, and one wheel. I straightened right front brake rotor by hand. Now when I tried to install the new lower right A-arm the bolts would not line up with the stock frame brackets. By now I am low on cash. New frame is $775. Used frame on E-bay from $300 up and what are you getting? The Frame Man in Sacramento has a $300 minimum and goes up from there. I found Pat's Welding in Concord, Calif who restores motorcycles for a hobby. He cut off the frame brackets and rewelded them for $80. and I am back to the dunes. I highly rec'm Pat's Welding for anyone in Northern Calif who needs something fixed at low cost and don't mind if it is not exactly in A-1 stock perfect condition.

Another option to consider is to have the stock head shaved and domed. Patriot Racing will do this for $85 for whatever volume combustion chamber you want. I had mine domed for 21cc and shaved so that I can safely run pump gas. Once in a while the stock heads come out with uneven volumes resulting in uneven compression even after fresh top end job. The $85 job will give same balanced compression as aftermarket head but you cannot easily change compression and they don't look as good for sure.