Rare Scottish Tree Badger

When I first got my Banshee, it was a nightmare to start. But once it was warmed up, it would start no problem. I can't say what the tickover was like 'cos it was set up, at that time, for no idle. ... My problem was the state of the flywheel and pickup coil. I gave it all a good clean and re-gapped the pickup coil. Starts first time, every time now! I'm not saying that's your problem, but it's worthwhile checking. It does sound like more of a fuel issue. .... Swap your plugs over and see what happens with the one cylinder missfire. .... See what the plugs are telling you while they're out. Good luck. Rare.

Have a look at the picture in PUSH THE THROTTLE's post under the tittle "Flywheel Puller". You'll see the reference point for the TDC mark on the casing. .... I'm looking forward to getting my DynaFS aswell. .... Have you definitely got the correct model number for your year of bike? ... There are 3 models. You must also run resistor type plugs. Rare.

Wey Hey!!!! That did it! Amazing what a bit of heat can do. I only had a hot air gun, but I strapped it to a broom handle with a cable tie and left it there firing at the edge of the swingarm for five minuits. .... Re-sharpened the makeshift chissel and away it went. The heat must have been enough to soften the outer shell so as to stop it shattering. ... It folded in pretty easily once I'd managed to start a gap. The collar's in a real mess! I'll get that on a lathe tomorrow and try and get away with taking a thou or two off it. I should have ordered a full replacement kit, but this'll do untill I get one. Thanks guys! Rare.

The bolt wasn't too bad. I'd taken it out just before christmas when I did a stripdown to powdercoat the frame. It was then that I realised one of the bearings needed done. Even then I only had to use a ball pein hammer and a bit of backwards and forwards bashing! I've only done a few hours since then 'cos by bike was stolen on 1st Jan. Luckily we recovered it a fortnight ago minus a load of stuff.... Plastics, seat, grips etc. Luckily the motor is fine. Thanks for the advice. .... I've tried the screwdriver trick, but just can't get a gap to start. I even used the grinder to sharpen an old broken punch: I got a gap to start then, but it just broke away. I'll go and put some heat on the swingarm and try the ground down punch again. I must get myself a set of small chisels, I'm sure that'll get the buggers! Aye, it's a B.I.T.C.H. !! Rare.

OK, so my swingarm bearings have been shot out for a while. I pick up a new pair tomorrow, so I thought right, get the old ones out tonight. ... I've just pulled the swingarm out and the rollers just about fell out on their own. Many of them did! So now I'm left with the outer shells but I'm struggling to get these out. What's left of the outer edge of the bearing just breaks away when I try to fold it in with a punch. ..... Are there any tricks here? The Yamaha manual doesn't make out they are a problem to remove. .... "remove" is about all they say and then it moves on to "inspect". Are we talking 'heat' here, or a small chisel to cut them. Anyone got the answer? Rare.

zrally2002 sells them on eBay with a start price of $169 + shipping with no reserve. I'm tryng to do a deal on a few sets just now, so if anyone's interested let me know. Rare.

Time to get out the multimeter and do some eliminations. ... All specs are in BHQ's FAQ Electrical. Rare.

I'm about to do the same, but going to try the 450 thumb throttle. I'm told it's the same throttle attachment, but I need a cable. What is the manufacturer of your cable and do you have a part number? Rare.

Do 'Boss Racing' have a website? I can't seem to find them in my search engine if they do. Rare.

What was your mixture before? ... Could be an issue. Rare.

I was doing a search for VForce3 reeds and came across a comment from Locogata which was made back in November last year. ... " i dont think the delta3 reeds are really proven yet but there isnt anything better than vforce 2's." A few months have passed now, and I wondered if anyone that had renewed their VForce2 Reeds with VForce3's could voice their opinion on the changes felt. I've checked out their manufacturers, Moto Tassinari, and was impressed by their write up ..... http://www.mototassinari.com/ .... Once there, go to 'Technical' and then 'VForce features' for their features and benefits. Unless I hear otherwise, I'm pretty much 'sold' on them! Their price is $258, but the best I've found is $169. .... Anyone done any better? Rare.

When you say $165+jets, do you mean a variety of jets, or just 'including jets'? Rare.

I've no experience with cool heads, but possibly the dome seals??? .... I'm sure someone will chime in soon. Your trans oil is 1.5 liters (1.6 US quarts). Rare.

Red/Black to Black (Green is part of the lighting circuit). The Black goes to earth (Chassis), so you can take the Red/Black wire directly to earth. Rare.

Thanks for all your help, guys. Pretty much decided to go for the 28's and a set of V-Force 3 Reeds. I'll run the 28's the way they are at 1st and then have them bored to 30mm. I'll get more info. at the time when it comes to getting them bored. Rare.

My thoughts too. It would account for the bike running ok at idle, but not under load: The spark is looking for it's easiest path. Although I would have thought it would still have run on the good side. ???? Rare.

Ah, I see! It makes sense now about boring to 30mm. So is "taper boring" just a term for a straight bore, it's not actually tapered? I'm not a machinist, and our meanings of words can be a little different this side of 'The Pond'. ....... You've got 'hoods', we've got 'bonnets'. You've got 'trunks', we've got 'boots'. You 'ship' and we 'post'. 'Zip Codes'/'Post Codes', etc., etc. Rare.

So why not put 30's on in the first place? Or is it a benefit to have this taper boring? Or perhaps the characteristics of the 28's are better for our applications than the 30's. ..... ?? Rare.

I've just recently acquired my Banshee which has been prepared and proven in MX racing here in Scotland. My dilemma: The engine has had the standard head skimmed and a "Full Race Tune" port job for MX, but the carbs are still standard Mikuni 26's. Although I'm pulling great power in all areas, I'm sure the motor would benefit from a larger carb setup. ... I just don't know how big to go. All mods in my profile, but the important ones are as follows: Doma Racing Exhaust, K&N filter with lid removed. .... Jetting: 270 mains, 25 pilots, Needle on #5. (Never above 1000ft and our pump gas is 97 Octane). I'm looking at the Keihin PWK 28's, but should I really be looking at 30's or 33's. Any opinions would be much appreciated. Rare

As I'm sure you know, the only way prove a fault in the CDI is by elliminating all other circuits and components for failures. Just because it's new doesn't necessarily mean it's not faulty. .... Use the BansheeHQ FAQ Electrical section to help you with specs and circuits. (You'll need a multimeter). Is your pick up coil within limits? A quick check is to swap in a "known to be working" unit from another bike. Good Luck! Rare

Quote from boonman ---> "I now offer brand spankin' new modded stars. Right from Yamaha I get the new star, mod it, and it's ready for sale." Rare

If your hearing is working, then there's no need for a tacko. Just listen to the engine speed rise as you turn the adjustment screws in. (Or if you have TORS, then the adjustments are on the top). If you've had the carbs apart, or had the tops off, then you need to synchronise them first. Either by looking through the windows on the side of them (which can be a bit tricky with the inner window if the slides are blackened from use). What I did was to remove the air filter and look down the throat of each carb and screw the adjustment needle in untill the needle just started to raise the slide on each carb. Once you've found that point, give each screw the same amount of turns in (just a couple will do for a start), put your airfilter back on and fire the bike up. Now you have to fine tune the adjustment by turning each screw by the same amount (1/4 turns on each are fine) untill you feel happy with the engine's idle speed. Remember to 'nip up' the locknut on the adjusters. .... Job Done! Rare

I laugh when I hear you guys moaning about the price of fuel. Try living in Scotland! ... Nearly FOUR times the price!! We have 95 Octane @

Does anyone run 9's in their 'Shee? ..... I run NGK B9EG. The reason I moved to 9's was that I have had my (std.) head skimmed and therefore increased the compression. The knock on effect of this is to increase the heat produced in the combustion chamber. The 'G' refers to a different style of spark producing tip. ..... very fine. I can only assume that you guys that run the cool heads can remove enough heat to not have to move to a hotter plug. (Or is it colder/harder/softer... I allways get confused about the term).