nater006

The oil may separate from the fuel if sitting for a while,but you can just shake the can nice and good and it'll be fine. Someone posted recently regarding how long stored gas would be good for, and it was mentioned that it should be OK for a long time if you're storing it in metal cans.

it won't blow your stator, but those lights will be yellowed and dim and probably less usable overall than your stockers with your stock stator.

Last i remember, those things are like TiVos where it doesn't matter if you put a fast drive in them or not. Just a typical 120GB ATA/100 (a.k.a. UDMA100) drive @ 5400 or 7200RPM should do you just fine. Not sure if those things have the same 137GB kernel issues as the TiVos did. The only one I've modded was with an 80GB drive, and it worked really well oh yeah, and its cool about the torx stuff.. i'm just like... who's dissing on torx bits! ahhhh! I used to do the screwdriver trick till getting into the automotive world.. then, stripping something out meant me not going anywhere and/or paying a tow bill, etc.

you got it..

torx drivers are not a bad investment. You can get a basic fold-up set at any department store for like $5-6. they get used on my S10 and a lot of other projects. yeah, you can use a jeweler's screwdriver to get them out, but it is not a bad investment.

I remember reading a post by him about getting a set of banshee front spindles and getting skiis on their spindles and welding 'em together. Seems like it would be a very economic and effective way.

a.k.a. torx screws?

A decent intake and decent pipes will make a world of difference

You can't replace the factory balljoints, as they're welded in.. gotta get a set of arms. You can probably find a used set of stockers, or aftermarket ones on Fleabay, or some new QSM ones or similar will be great.

I just gotta ask.. WTF.. are you always planning to blow money on something?

I guess the electric start would be understandable if someone was handicapped to the point of not being able to kick it over, but for 99%+ of us it is not very practical. Better not hear anyone complaining about how the shee kicks. The thing is a walk in the park after kicking over CR500Rs for a number of years.

All you should have to do is unplug it and remove the two screws that hold the assy on the handlebars. The shee will work fine w/o it, but you'll have to stall it to kill it, and your lights won't be useable without a switch to work them. The shee will run without the switch though.. its when you close the loop on the ignition that it ceases to work on it so you can get away with just leaving it open by losing the switch if you decide to do it, wrap the end of the wiring harness where the switch plugged in with electrical tape to keep out moisture, dirt, etc.

The blurry vision does take a while to get used to but it kills the earlier GTA3 games where the cars would max out at like.. 55mph or something and it'd be like.. okay this sucks. Now you actually almost *have* to use the brakes occasionally. I'm still on the second island in San Fierro. The missions are easier thus far on the second island which is cool. the combine is pretty cool though the fact that you can drive it off a cliff to The Truth's farm during the mission and have it be just fine. The Truth is pretty funny too.. as is the whole concept of the Mothership. For those of you not there yet.. keep pluggin along the races in this one are quite easy though... thus far.

Plastics don't help performance? Damn. Wasting my money! Agreed on the shocks. My last shee was a '91 and the stock shocks were horrible. Current one with just basic Works triple rates (nowhere near as nice as the Elkas) is 10X better with the stock A-arms. And like sredish said... you won't be able to use extended arms with the stock shocks. Shocks first, then arms.

How long are they? Loco, I'm running the same tires on mine right now and they don't hook up all that well on the farm land I ride (my cut Turf Tamers do.. ) so guessing a set of those Trekkers studded would work pretty nicely especially in a few inches of snow.. Just wondering how long the screws are you stuffed in. DId you put anything on them, like the vulcanizing compound, or just... went to town on 'em with a drill and box of screws? Also, I have a set of Razrs but they have very little (3/16" or so) tread left on them. Doubt those will dig into the snow very well though..

If you pump the tar outta it, does the pedal ever have the proper pressure? It sounds like its got air in it honestly. My 900RR front brakes spit brake fluid after a few pumps and bleeder bolt work, but still had air in them until they were just bled bled bled.

oh lovely. Sounds like you have a lawsuit coming up. Hopefully they can just reimburse you for getting somewhere else to do the work on it. Price out a dealership rebuild and tell 'em you want that much..

are you ever not talkin about buying something? go to CNET and just look through their reviews. Their dig camera reviews are pretty good, and i can't imagine their portable electronics stuff would be too far behind.

Gotta admit that it would be pretty funny seeing one of those used as a coolant overflow tank on a shee..

I think everyone in here either sold or destroyed their copy..

Yessir. This man speaks the truth. gotta have some proof...

I do believe you should be fine with 99dB. Its the places that are like.. 94dB, like Silver Lake, that would require a hush kit. pretty sure its around 99dB but i may be wrong.

Cheapest way is if you have a way of stuffing it on a DVD (e.g., a non-computer DVD writer for recording television, movies, etc), do that, stuff it in your PC's (or Mac) DVD drive and rip & encode from there. If you don't already have a way of that, you'll want to invest in a video capture card that'll accept good ol vid & audio input, or similar. they aren't too overly expensive at all. From there you can just input it off of VCR, camcorder, whatever, and encode it to whatever you want like an MPEG or similar.

yeah getting a car with police package is overkill.. and then some. Depending on the vehicle, adding an auxiliary oil cooler can be a 30 minute $30 job. Haven't ever heard of it being necessary for a vehicle idling for long periods. The engine fan (clutch or electric) should keep the coolant cool enough that the oil temps aren't climbing to anywhere near dangerous.

The -1 may make it sit a lil higher, a bit of which will be due to that the rear shock won't sag as much with less leverage (shorter swingarm) working on it. If its sitting higher, it'll also be tippier due to the higher center of gravity.