nater006

EBC here, too.

I got the Armadillo skid. Its .250 aluminum. It fit like a glove (not the OJ glove) and didn't even need any shims or anything. Extremely sturdy. Two thumbs up, here. Rockymountain has them.

How much power does it rob? I'd be good to see some dyno figures. I'd give up a little HP for increased cooling and a reliable impeller but that's just me.. just wondering how much HP it really takes though.

Did that yesterday, too The good thing is you just have to remove the stator side cover and nothing else. There's 2 small screws that hold the pickup away from the flywheel magnets. You want it .015-.025 I believe.. rotate the flywheel so a magnet is underneath the pickup, just stuff a feeler gauge in there, adjust it, and tighten it back down. Set of feelers will run you $1-4 at any auto store.

Another option.. you can pop the heads off with a hammer and cold chisel. Then when you pull the cover off, there's usually a good 3/8-5/8" of thread or shank sticking out that you can grab with channellocks or vice grips and unthread. I did this to a few of the cover bolts on my clutch cover (stupid phillips heads!) and then off to the hardware store for replacements.

Got one of those now, also. The dipstick was stripped out so I got a decent one and a magnetic plug from some POWA SELLA on ebay for a good price. Got more pics of the whole ordeal.. will load 'em from my dig camera tonight from work. Luckily, that was all the apparent damage that was done. Got a 2001 trans in there now and it seems to be working fine.

It should fit fine with your stock gasket. This isn't something you're going to want to attempt yourself though. Getting the mating surface perfectly flat and milling it exactly how you want it... you'll definitely want a machine shop or boonman to do it. Another option is to get a Noss head or PD Cool Head and then you can just switch the domes to smaller ones as you change to race fuel or similar.

Definitely a fan of the PD impeller, here. My last shee ('91) broke all the fins off the stock impeller. Piece of junk. I put a PD in and never looked back. Don't think it really robs much power.. it wasn't even noticeable on that one.

I put mine in yesterday and it was a really tight fit also. Filed down the edges slightly and now its perfect.

My $.02 from taking this thing all the way apart in the last couple days and putting it back together... I use vice grips to grip the head and turn the ones that you can. Or, you can cut a slot in them with a dremel and use a flathead to get them out. Replace them with allen bolts though.. that is for sure.

Yessir you win the prize! I found 'em both, too, bouncing around in the case. When i flipped the motor over and heard "clink clink" inside I knew it was going to be something like this. Oh well.. new trans is in. Now to just get it running again..

Found the problem with 2nd gear. Whats missing?

Yeah... I'll probably end up doing it anyway. Was hoping to go riding this weekend and need to get my hands on a gasket kit but.. oh well. If I pull the upper end, I need an O-ring kit for the Cool Head. Still gotta pull the engine out of the quad anyway Its down to the kicker idler gear and that little arc piece over the clutch shaft that keeps the bearings from walking out I believe, though. Just have to pull it today, do the dirty deed, and get that thing fixed. Should be interesting to see what the 2nd gear issue comes out to be. Betting that one of the 2nd pair is missing a tooth...

I've got it all set... new stuff goes in tomorrow. I had to do the "talk to a friend and find the best deal in town on a new IR impact wrench" trick to get the clutch basket off. Half suspected it. The rag thing is only for the primary gear I think..hehe. Well the ingersoll-rand got its .8 seconds of glory. Anyway, case cracking and trans swap are going on tomorrow! boonman, I was planning to put in the new gears, bearings, seals, etc in the low end (including crank seals, carefully) and then lower the upper case & upper end back onto the lower. It shouldn't pose any problems other than getting those crank seals on which just requires a little patience. That way I can be sure the new gears and shift forks are meshing correctly. Might just end up taking the upper end apart anyway. We'll see how it goes.. wish my luck.

A lil soapy water will make it easy to see, too.

Well, wasn't sure. I had a dead shock that had plenty of nitrogen but the internals were just screwed up so it rebounded really slow. Most Stealerships should be able to charge that for you. One of my buddies uses just a regular air compressor on his RM250 rear shock and has never had a problem.. and he's like 250lbs. Rides fine. Air is like 71% nitrogen..hehe.

I can answer a couple of those! Quicksand motorsports offers really nice +2+1 a-arms for a great price. Haven't heard a single negative thing about them. As soon as my tranny rebuild is done, that's my next upcoming mod. You can get really similar ones from LSR but they cost more. The quicksand ones look just as nice, IMHO. If you're not on a budget.. the LSR or Roll Design ones are spiffy. If you're getting a +4 stroker kit, don't do the 2-into-1 carb. That stroker is going to require a bit of fuel and I doubt the 2-into-1 setup is going to give it quite what it needs. Also, that +4 stroker is going to require a stroker crank, not just a piston kit. So you'll end up pulling the engine and cracking the case to install the new crank.

I'll reverse the rag to the other side (top) spot of where the gears mesh. Same deal to keep them from spinning while tightening. 65 ft/lb isn't too much honestly. Just sucks breaking it free to get it loose. Worst case scenario is I have to go and buy an impact wrench. Not a huge deal really. Expecting to have to go buy one anyway if holding the clutch plates doesn't provide enough force to break the nut free. Will know by tonight.. hopefully won't have to go shopping for air tools... Good idea on that tool though -- if one of my coworkers has his welder setup ready to go, I might steal your idea..

If you get a raptor shock to fit, supposedly it'll have the rear end of your shee jacked up a bit higher. Could the rebound on the current shock just be cranked way down?

Are the slides in the carburators correctly? I doubt its anything to do with the TORS but you may want to unplug it to assist with troubleshooting it...

I've got Works all around (now)... just had fronts when I bought the quad. Don't really have much to compare it to except for one of my riding buddies' machines.. and it is a really noticeable difference. I ride some really rough farmland and am usually going pretty fast... the shocks definitely help. Works are a good step up from stock.

Got a modified one going in with my new trans this next week... supposed to make neutral much easier to find and make it shift a little nicer. Boonman mods them, you may want to contact him to find out how much, etc. Haven't heard a single complaint... only great stuff... about that mod.

If it was working before and just isn't now, well, you just more than likely still have air in the brake lines. Just make sure and pump them up as best as possible with the bleeder closed, and then open and close it. Pump up again, same thing. You'll get it. It takes a while. It takes a LOT longer if you just pump the brakes once, hold, and then open and shut the bleeder bolt. Pump them up as best as possible... you might not even get any pressure initially if there's a lot of air.. but you'll get it.

I'm doing this to mine next week for the first time and have done a bunch of reading... First, yeah, get the manual.. it will be super beneficial. Second -- to answer part of your question -- basically everything has to come off. Flywheel/stator, clutch assembly, primary gear, shifter stuff, etc. My manual just says to whack it lightly with a soft-face hammer to help break it apart. You'll need a flywheel puller if you don't have one, and something to hold it with if you don't have an impact wrench. I used a Craftsman strap wrench on mine a couple days ago.

Two quick fixes: 1) get a set of 1-way bleeder bolts. They're meant for 1-man bleeding. You loosen them and just keep pumping the brakes. Lets air/fluid out but nothing back in. 2) get a power bleeder. You can buy a basic hand-pump with everything you need from Autozone or Advance Auto parts for around $20-25. Or, you can even get one on Autozone's Loan-A-Tool program and return it and just be out the travel expenses and time. You basically just hook it to the bleeder bolt and pump away. That's how I did my S10. If you're doing it the normal way... make sure and pump the brakes up as best as possible before loosening the bleeder bolt. Pump them up till their firm and then loosen and re-tighten them. Otherwise if you just pump once, bleed once, pump once, bleed once... you'll be there for a *long* time.