nater006

Just took mine off for the first time (had my quad 2 months) 2 days ago. Ran into the same problem. Ended up tapping it a bit and putting some good elbow grease into the wrench I was using on the puller. It eventually popped and gave. The tap trick works.. and it just takes some good OOMPH!

Depends on if you want to go faster or if you want to do the suspension up. I'll second the shocks and A-arms thought. If all you have is CPi pipes though, get a good intake setup to compliment it and then look at other options. If anything at least a good K&N. Never will give up my shocks.. good stuff!

Ah, yeah.. I got a set of 4 of those. The crank bearings were brand new when I bought it so I'm just going to do the 4 on the gear clusters.

Holy cow. Meat, you're my hero.

Well, the motor is practically brand new so I'd rather not take apart the whole upper end. Its just the low end having difficulties. Already had the upper apart recently (after purchasing a couple months ago) and it is in good shape. No need to tear it down again. Bdbanshee, I read in the manual to stuff a rag between the primary gear and clutch basket gear to help loosen both the primary gear nut and clutch basket nut. It makes me nervous but I asked a mechanic friend and he assured me it would be fine. He helped me rebuild my 250R and is absolutely brilliant... when I'm in the area, I enlist his help and repay him with computer help The manual mentions a clutch holder tool, also, but I'm sure the rag trick will work just fine. Just have to move it to the other side of where those gears mesh to loosen the other nut. Could always probably use the Sears strap wrench again, very carefully.

2nd gear has a rhythmic clunk. It doesn't sound good and you can feel it in the handlebars, etc when on a smooth surface. It is *only* in 2nd. Clutch checked out fine. From what I figured.. it sounded like a screwed 2nd gear set or similar. No idea what is up with it though. Hence the case cracking... I've checked everything else. The clunking speeds up and slows down with the speed in 2nd. Its 2nd, 2nd only, and no other. 1 3 4 5 and 6 are all wonderful. No weird noises. Just pure glorious fun! I understand what you're saying about the gears and forks meshing correctly. That makes plenty of sense. I actually thought about it after posting and realized that it would probably be easiest (and probably the only way! hehe) to lay everything back out in the lower case and then lower the top half back onto it. Noticed the half c-clips in the manual also and that too crossed my mind. Already had devised a way to make sure the crank stays with the upper half (just a tie-down strap w/ 2 rubber hooks, *CAREFULLY* tied over the head and each hook holding up an end of the crankshaft but not putting much pressure on it). Thanks for the advice.. it is greatly appreciated. Got the flywheel/stator assembly off after work. Don't have an impact wrench unfortunately so had to settle for a Craftsman strap wrench (carefully) and elbow grease to remove the flywheel. Will pull everything else over the weekend except for cracking the cases. Parts should arrive Monday.

Ummmm... another question that just came up. Since I'm flipping this on the head and just pulling the lower case half (e.g., not taking the upper end apart) are there any tricks to either 1) getting it apart, or 2) getting it back together? The crank seal installation and the shift forks would be my only concerns. Since the upper end isn't coming apart I was planning to carefully set everything into the lower case half (two gear clusters, shift drum, forks, etc) and then basically drop the top half back on top. Any advice?

I've got the Prodesign and really like it. Wish I had the Noss so I could get a spiffy blue anodized one Don't think there really are any cons to either.

Gotcha -- I remember reading a post (searched extensively) about someone with that same problem. Two bolts through it if I remember right -- I noticed it in the manual, also. Thanks for the heads up!

New trans is arriving for my shee next week (bad 2nd gear in the current). Looking to put it in quickly and relatively easily. Here's what I have... if someone can tell me if I'm missing anything or has any tips/tricks or quick ways of stuff, let me know! Gonna flip the engine upside down and just pull the lower case half to avoid taking apart my fairly new top end. From the looks of the manual, only special tools needed are a flywheel puller and perhaps a clutch holder (probably not needed). Looks like after removing the clutch/kicker/stator/flywheel/etc stuff, the case splits right apart with a rubber mallet. Appears that old gear clusters should pop right out (w/ rubber mallet) and new trans stuff should drop right in. Got a complete new set of lower end seals ((2) main seals, kicker seal, water pump, shifter seal, clutch arm, and one other). Is there any trick to installing those? The manual mentions a light lithium grease (like white lithium) for assembly which is no problem. Any other tricks with installing seals that should be known, however? Hoping to just pull the old gear clusters out, put the new ones in, and possibly shift forks if they're bent. Then, put it right back together any other tips/tricks? this is my first time attempting this and it had me a little nervous...hehe. And you folks are so helpful... figure that someone's done this a few times and might have additional stuff that the manual doesn't. Thanks for any info!

There are 2 "plain" washers on the kick idler gear. The one between the idler gear and the case is actually labeled as a "plain washer" hehehe. Another slightly larger one between the gear and the c-clip. Not sure if thats it but its one place to check... There is a "thrust plate" that sits between the pressure plate and clutch basket but that's slightly larger I believe.

You won't have to crack the cases to replace clutch components. As for prices... that I can't tell you..

Guess its mostly dependant on where you ride. Folks in the dunes can probably get away with dropping theirs.

I got the Armadillo. It got a workout last weekend and still looks brand new. I'd wreck my sprocket and rotor without the skid. The stocker was a POS. VERY pleased with the Armadillo -- excellent fit, and .250" thick alum.. its awesome.

Stock is like 70-80 watts I believe. Definitely not over 100 though. Rickystator has a good 200w aftermarket setup for a good price. http://www.rickystator.com

I have a service manual... it has the only special tools needed as.. 1) flywheel puller & holder 2) piston wrist pin puller Everything else is just a rubber mallet, screwdrivers, and similar. Is there a good suitable replacement for Yamabond? e.g., like Blue RTV sealant. I'm guessing the 2nd gear set is screwed. Are there other common issues like shift forks & shafts that go out on these that i should watch? rhythmic tunk tunk at 2nd gear..

Okay, cool. Any special tools I'll be needing other than a rubber mallet and a flywheel puller? Sorry.. don't have my manual with me unfortunately Gonna crack this baby open early next week and hopefully be back up and riding by the weekend if the parts come quick. Guessing one of the gears wasn't having a good day... Any idea where I could get a seal/gasket kit for the lower end? e.g., everything I'd need from tearing this apart.. base gasket, oil seals, and whatever else..

No prob -- just PM me if you find out that it'll fit and I can send either the whole thing or just the headers your way.

No slipping at all. Feels just like 2nd should but has noticeable noise. Can kind of feel it making the noise, also, on a smooth stretch of road or similar. Sucks.. No metal shavings in the oil, either. Drained it first thing when I got back and it came out clean. Well... I've never cracked the case on one of these. Guess its time to get my manual and find out how to do it. Who makes a good lower end seal kit, also, so I can make sure and replace the stuff when I reassemble it? It doesn't look too difficult to disassemble -- cracking the cases looks like the hardest part.

Well... my shee is making noises in 2nd gear. Its a rhythmic "tunk tunk tunk" type of thing. Its not super loud but it is noticable since I'm picky as almighty heck... Originally I thought this was the famous "engine noise" that people had talked about.. but its only in 2nd. Grrrr. Everything else is great. Anybody have any ideas? There a common cause? Or perhaps I'm just looking at cracking the case and a new set of 2nd gears.

Shop ebay for that exhaust. I got a stock set for a 900rr project for $10 on there a couple years ago. They probably don't fit the CBR600 though or you could have it for the shipping cost. If they do fit let me know. Its the stock setup. The can really sucks (its stock!) but the headers are good, and good enough to modify.

Okay, cool. Thanks for the info Holyman! doltz, on the back it says it is suitable for premix applications also... some of the injector stuff doesn't premix well. Just thinking of an incident with a friend's old beat Blaster, out of oil, but with an old gallon of injector oil he used to use for his arctic cat. Didn't blow up miraculously but.. that stuff doesn't mix very well. Hopefully this stuff will work okay. Might get Amsoil a call before but.. the bottle shouldn't lie

Didn't know that about them and the engine blowing thing.. that's good to know Thanks for the info. I'll give it a shot this weekend -- only got the current 1/2 tank full of Yamalube 2R left to go!. Would you suggest mixing that at 50:1 as the bottle recommends? I notice you mix yours at 80:1 instead of the 100:1 that the bottle boasts, which is why I was questioning the 50:1 on this one. But hey, it might just work!

Has anyone tried this Amsoil yet? Sorry for the large pic... it says "Injector oil" but on the back clearly states that it can also be used for pre-mix at 50:1 ratio. It makes me nervous though. People are mixing the 2000 series at 50:1 and that's the "higher performance" version of the above one. Anyone used it? It work okay? Just don't want to blow anything up! Maybe should I start at a lower ratio? Using Yamalube 2R right now at 32:1 and my compression is great. Engine is in great shape. Thanks... sorry for the repeated Amsoil post but the best I could find was someone else asking the same thing and Holyman saying that it *should* work fine but nobody ever gave it the thumbs up or thumbs down...

She's good at lookin over my shoulder.. only bumped helmets lightly once or twice. The second part... well... not a bad thing... and my Vortex clip-ons put me at a better angle to brace myself from getting racked again.