nater006

Heh, yup, and good luck getting a class 3... hence the reason I mentioned searching for someone willing to not ship to a FFL..

Me me me! 1993 Honda CBR900RR. Old pic... before banshee370 painted up my new rear plastics so i lost the cut number plate rear deal pic of the new stuff coming soon when its cleaned up for the year. Lots o' mods including pressurized ram air, Stage 7 jet kit, sharkskinz plastics, Vortex clip-ons, newer front plastics,and a full Two Bros Racing exhaust

You can't build 'em for less anymore, really. A new Dell, shipped, for like $700 isn't bad. Couple words of advice.. if you plan to game, don't get an integrated video card. It uses your system memory and 1) your system memory is much slower than video memory, and 2) you lose out on your system memory Dell isn't bad for reliability. Some series (GX400s for instance) have a faulty area like the power supplies. Most of the newer ones are pretty good though. They ship you parts and a tech if needed like the next day so if it breaks, its not hard to fix. Gateway is bottom of hte barrel for reliability if I remember right. Mostly, it depends on what you wanna use it for. Do NOT buy an HP/Compaq. Dell at least adheres to ATX standards so if something goes wrong down the road (like the mobo going out) you are not stuck buying proprietary stuff like HP and Compaq use. You can get a good ATX mobo and slap it in and be good to go. Gateway is good for ATX standard stuff too. Plus, the compaq/HP cases are crappy as hell and hard to work with. And, usually really cramped. Compaq servers are really nice but their workstations just suck. And last.. if you can afford it.. .go with a Pentium series and not a Celeron. The AMD processors (which, incidently, Dell does not use) are nice and fast also but a lot more poorly designed. If your processor fan fails... the P3/P4 will just slow down immensly before the hardware monitor goes nuts upon reboot. The AMD will just melt melt melt and usually take the board with it. Mmmmmmmmmm... thermal failure... questions? ask me. I've been doing this for a long time and deal with it every day and am a computer nut. Debian Linux rules.. and i'm about 2 weeks from my RHCE..

http://www.gunsamerica.com Though, most will require shipping to your FFL and you probably won't have much luck getting away with a full auto. There are some which don't require an FFL though. scary... Honestly the way to go is just to buy a decent one and modify it to shoot full auto. It isn't hard. Usually just requires a Dremel or a $20 piece off somewhere on the internet.

That's a good starting point but will probably be rich. Toomey recommends a #280 at sea level altitude. But, thats with holes drilled in the airbox and not minus the whole lid. You'll need to adjust accordingly for your altitude, temps, etc.

Might be a plugged up carb? Especially if it was running fine when you put it away..

Its fixed. The new 200 watt stator is apparently bad. I swapped the stocker back in and it was an INSTANT difference. Just to make sure I didn't do anything weird I swapped it out and put my 200w rickystator one back in. BLahhhhhhhhhhhhh. Both at stock and +4 timing... dropped the stocker back in on the adjustable timing plate and woah nelly it revs like a champ again. Both had the pickup adjusted properly, wires in the right locations, yadda yadda. Identical. My new one just cut out at the *FUN* rpms... Oh well... guess its going back to Ricky (hopefully). In the meantime, a lil less lighting power Could be worse. Good call on the stator/flywheel Banchetta... right on the money.

At least with my S10 and stuff, if you need to install a new stud and it wants to be pressed in and you don't have a press... use an impact wrench. I broke 2 studs on one of my rear S10 tires the first time taking them off. Just old and brittle and rusted. Got some new ones at the auto store but didn't want to take the whole axle out to put new studs in. You can just put a couple washers in the other side, put a nut on it, and torque the nut with an impact wrench and it'll draw the stud through so its seated where it needs to be. If you're careful you should be able to do the same thing on the shee hub.

It would cool it a little better if you had 2 but I doubt its really necessary. I'm going to pick one up for mine also.. they look like a good investment.

This is a weird problem that hopefully someone can help me with. Got these Dyna coils for my 900RR offa ebay a long time ago and it just came with the two coils. I got hardware for mounting them and such but am confused when it comes to the plug wires There's a pic of one below. anyway, I have NO idea how plug wires hook into these! You can see the two holes for the plug wires but it isn't readily apparent to me how the wires hook in and 1) make a good connection, and 2) stay in! Sorry for the monster pics... figured it'd be more useful than small pics though Just need to know how the plug wires hook in... what adapters/etc hook it to these coils.

The magic of Goo-Gone. Nice citrus smell, too!

the CR500s turn a bit nicer but the KX500s have a stronger engine and are more stable. At least back when I had mine... I ground some unbelievable serious notches out of the clutch basket on the first one, lemme tell you. Ground 'em out and the clutch worked fine for a year till it was sold. Never an issue with those things. Bulletproof.

Its all in the rider Btw, those are before I changed the numbers to 420 (the orange one) and 69 for the other one. Hehehehe. I change them every time I get chased by the cops/DNR/etc... i got pics of that somewhere too (the numbers) Its a ride like no other though! But all in the rider Those things are hard to break, too. The orange one bit the dust many a time and never showed it except for some bent bars that a friend of mine bent.

Here's a pic of my second '90 CR500 with the PC pipe, etc. Its the pic the guy took when I went to go pick it up. I'm not that bad at taking pics to get my shadow in it Just look at the jug on that bad oscar. Should have never sold it. But it paved the way for the 900RR... Here's a pic of my first '90 before it got an FMF setup.

they are *awesome*. Used to use less gas than my friend on his RM250 (nitrogen boy..) because he was revving his way out and I could keep up no problem. The downside is they eat through tires like you would never believe! We take our shee kickstarters for granted. The one on my CR500 was prolly twice as long. My bro got whacked behind the knee with it once because he wasn't good at kicking the thing. Unbelievable sheer power. Wheelie out of any and every gear

I used to own 2 CR500s with very basic mods (intake, pipes). They would smoke anything I put them up against and I can't drag for crap! Much faster than my shee. If he can get that rear tire to hook up and not flip the thing backwards... man they are insane! If i buy another dirtbike, it'll be that.... so much fun.

I like mine. Much easier for me for riding for long amounts of time than it is to use the thumb setup. I use it everywhere and have never been inconvenienced or had rideability compromised by having it. If you convert, you'll need an idle kit. Otherwise the quad won't idle with the twist throttle installed. Even that isn't too bad to install though.

The one cylinder was around 135 or so. I've only tested the one due to a trouble I was having with the engine after the transmission rebuild. Simple mistake of a stuck rag i imagine the other is probably pretty similar in compression. It is ported however. Oh yeah, I'm at about 600 feet above sea level. 22cc domes in the Cool Head. Probably will switch to 21s soon and still keep with the pump gas. Guess I'll try switching the coil as that shouldn't take more than about 5 minutes to do with my impact wrench and go from there. Probably will get impatient and sacrifice some sleep tonight and go figure it out. If that doesn't work, gonna up the jetting a notch or two and go from there. Point well taken on the rich mixture and power and jetting and such. Hoping it is just a jetting issue because I like my 200w stator's lighting power...

I'm running some unknowns unfortunately. The carbs are supposedly bored out slightly. They're roundside Mikuni, no TORS. I haven't measured the ID of them with a caliper yet to find out the exact mm. That'll be tomorrow or tues now that i have a caliper.. I got the quad a few months ago from a guy that said "the jetting is perfect". It had 220 jets in it. I've got T5s, the pro design intake, and a port job on the motor. Since I got it in like January and he had it jetted for warmer weather, I bought 240s (no 230s in stock unfortunately) to ride it for a weekend in the cold cold weather. It ran a little boggy in the top end until it was REALLY cold one of the nights. Almost like now but now its mostly just like.. cutting out. I popped 230s into it and it ran like a champ in the 35-45 degree weather. rode it twice in the weather for hours and it ran like a champ. Plugs came out with a nice brown finish. This weekend, after putting it back together and changing only the trans and the stator, i have these problems. Plugs were coming out brown, though a little lighter brown.. not white though by any means. Even put the 220s back in it and it didn't help at all. Those seem small compared to some of the jetting I see around here but... the carbs are still an unknown. Not sure why it would run perfect for a couple rides and then not at all. Who knows...

But would a lean condition in the main jets cause it to cut out like that in teh top RPMs? It was like it had either no spark or no fuel (or at least not a good mixture of fuel/air). Just would go POP after a few seconds if you held the throttle open. I figured it would run fine but lean if it was lean by a size or two... didn't think it would cut out? But... dunno. Never had that problem before.

No worries I'm going to put the regular stock stator back in it tomorrow or Tues and see how it runs. The jetting seemed fine... it just pooped out in the high ranges, thats all. If it was running lean, it wouldn't be pooping out though would it? The plugs came out brown..

The short story was I rode up the road to my neighbor's place to get spark plugs, because they're an Arctic Cat / Polaris dealer (of which my family owns none..). Its the only dealer within like 10 miles and just happens to be about 100yds up the road from me. His wife asked what I had ridden up on and I said "well, it doesn't have a Polaris sticker on it if thats what you're asking!" so she went outside for a "look" while her husband sold me the plugs. Went outside and she had molested my shee!! Needless to say I pulled that sticker right off...hehe.. Of course I'll probably get grief for letting a Pnaris sticker touch the shee but just thought it was kinda funny...

Just some FMF loyal people here. I was mostly looking for some help, not stupid comments about my choice of pipes.

I could see where the increased flow (30% I think they claim) does take a little more HP but.. its negligable.

BrokeStonedBiker, that was an utterly useless response... I wondered if it wasn't the stator. I put a new RS 200w stator on it. Tomorrow or Tues i'll go swap the stocker back in and see. Just a weird problem. It sounded like jetting but the plugs are a nice brown..