J-Madd

X3

I have the Star Burst pc on a duner chassis I'm trying to sell. It goes from green to purple and has orange metallic flake in it. Pics don't do it justice.

Wheels are 9x9. Can bring these to Sheltons in Stanford, Ky on Oct 23rd.

I have raced some bigger motors and been confident that I would win. I've beat down 18 mm DMs and 4 mil Super cub time after time. My setup was just better. At the strip, reaction time doesn't hurt either! But the point is, 50 ccs (even 100) is not enough (usually) to overcome a poor setup or poor rider.

~81+ Roll Out. 400 + shipping.

Everything you describe is common and no need for concern.

^^^^

You don't have to do anything to your carbs to run race gas. You can have a stock head rechambered; or even machined to accept interchangeable domes. CPIs.

Very good advice. Too often a motor is taken apart; then put back together with new seals, gaskets, etc; so you never know if it was a leak that caused it the first place.

Take off the filters and make sure a slide isn't hung open. One slide can hang open and the throttle will still have tension from the other carb, leaving it un noticed. It'll never start like that.

I don't think you have to pay the xtra $100 any more. The software is on their website and you can get a usb/serial adaptor at Radio Shack. I'm unclear about what you mean when you say the Dyna won't advance the timing until it starts and how the plate makes it easier to start than the dyna? The dyna can be advanced to whatever you want at start up (at least the software lets you belive that is the case). Even the pre-programmed settings add some timing at initial start up I think. Also; stock timing makes a bike easiest to start. When you add timing you get the tendency for it to kick back. JMO.

Shiny metal flake apearance is ok. Actual pieces of metal you can see or feel is not. Get a magnetic drain plug and you'll know for sure how much actual metal is in there. O'Reilly's has them for just a few bucks.

x2 on the spring. I've seen that a few times.

Compression really doesn't affect jetting. But you can richen it up to be safe. THe increased compression will create more heat and the richer mixture will help cool the combustion chamber and piston crown.

Man there are so many 421s for sale cheap, there's no way I'd build one from the ground up right now. YOu'll shift it at or just past peak HP probably. With those pipes it should rev up to near 11,000 rpms depending on the porting. 100 hp on race gas is doable. On alky it's the default hp on any off the shelf 421 hp; imo.. If you can't get 100 on alky, something is bad wrong.

[ Leaking coolant or leaking during the pressure test?

A little is normal. If you have alot, it's usually because the clip came off of the idler gear and is banging around inside your clutch cover. The idler gear is the one between the kicker assembley and the primary gear on the clutch basket.

I ran into that problem with my Raptor. I bought an OEM steering stem, and didn't realize ANY OEMs had 1 1/8" bars. I finally bought some pro tapers, but they are obviously made to have a riser beneath them, and they're too low. If you need that +2 stem, you'll cancel that out if you get the bars that I got. Hope that makes sense. Maybe get another style bend??

I think he means that it usually doesn't cost anything extra to clean up the ports.

Deja Vu. Been a while since one of these threads has popped up. This ones a little different. What effect does rod length have on port duration?

I was gonna ask if any of you lazy asses ever mod the stock one anymore You can even leave the stator and plate hanging from the motor and use a dremel. 10 minutes max. If you''ve never pulled the flywheel before, know that you have to buy a specific puller - don't run out to O'Reilly's and grab a jaw type puller.

Same side or opposite side? The first time you install OOFs your gonna have to rig up a mounting bracket. You can sometimes use the stock pipe hangers. If your using same side pipes that part is easier but it's a PITA sometimes to get them over both flanges at the same time. Opposite side pipes take literally less than 5 minutes to install (after the initial bracket mounting I mentioned.) As far as the difference in power; that's gonna depend on your porting. You may seen a gain or loss, or no difference at all, depending on the porting.

You can't just go by PSI; you have to calculate compression ratio; which depends on many factors, especially the exhaust port height. I ran a stock unported cylinder with +5 timing and 150 psi on pump gas for a long time. No deto. You may still be right about the need for race gas on his motor, though. His compression ratio could be high.

TTT. Really have to see this in person to appreciate the powdercoat. Those pictures definitely do not do it justice.

I don't know if I put orings in my 16 mil Twister. I had the crank rebuild, and you'd think they would put o-rings on it, but it had none - so I just thought they were optional. $500 to rebuild the f'n thing. I haven't even started it yet, and just got in in the chassis and almost ready to run yesterday.