J-Madd

Yes.

I dynoed Sniper OOFs and the peak and curve were both down on my 10 Mil Cub. A computer generated curve based on the pipes measurement showed the lower peak and curve vs Shearer and some other pipes. Mine are hanging on the wall in the shop. I read all of the comparisons of the inframes back when they were posted. Maybe IFs are different. I don't know of a good graph with the OOfs.

Yep. Can put any logo or design in 3D on it as well.

Draggin Plastic (MDR plastic you refer to) is lightweight (less than 1/2 pound) plastic hoods mainly for drag racing only. Not well suited for a duner or trail rider.

Yea no waterpump at all. Could you cnc a plastic cover? Without a kicker or waterpump there shouldn't be any stress on the cover. What a small world my first job was as a busboy at Catfish Wharf when I was 15.

What about one machined thin as possible, without waterpump orifice or kickstarter area. Would that be possible? Basically gut out the wp area and reinforced kicker area. Do you think it could be made lighter than a modded oem cover?

No way a 14 mil stays together at 10,000 rpm for a minute in top gear. Theres a formula somewhere for piston speed, and that is too much. Back when the two stroke books were written 30 or so yrs ago that piston speed would've been off the chart. I don't know if you've ever heard of Jason Menz, but he was kicking around the idea of trying land speed racing at one time. He would likely have some excellent ideas if he would share them. Not sure if he would though.

Just tie all of the black wires together, along with the black/red wire. Frame ground not necessary.

I had one motor built by Passion and it ran well despite being a very odd build. I never promoted or recommended him. I may have tried to defend him from some of the mud slinging, though. I don't remember. I'm not gonna dig up those old posts. There are some on Atvdragracers.com maybe as well.

Heavier rod is never a PRO. It has to change direction with every stroke. The flywheel is always going the same direction. That's what I meant when I said not to confuse them.

Less weight. The lighter rod is easier to accelerate and decelerate each stroke. This is not to be confused with flywheel weight.

Lap the flywheel on, then cover the crank mating surface with blue locktight (as a barrier) before installing. That prevents 99% of such issues.

The busa countershaft sprocket is splined differently. Not sure what you're trying to accomplish. A 530 Banshee sprocket would be the same thing (and fit the tranny you have.) Honestly I'd ditch the whole 530 setup and just run 520 anyway.

Send it to PPS if you wanna go fast.

Any reason it couldn't be tapped to a bigger and/or coarser thread and just run a bolt in it?

I've seen both a 4 Mil and a 7 mil Cub run gravity fed 39PWKs with stock bowls in 300 ft. Those are the only ones I've ever seen not run big bowls. Carbs and engines were both set up by the same guy.

That's odd. There should normally be a corresponding dent in the piston and usually embedded material in the piston. Are you missing any circlips? I wouldn't be too quick to put it all together until you found out what was in there.

I May have to get a couple of stockers and shaws put back together. Or at least come hang out.

Those are usually 2.81 ratio.

Good to know. I ran one for a while without issue with the plate itself, but kept breaking steels and fibers with that particular basket. edit: the particular basket I ran broke steels and fibers. It was NOT a Chariot. I forget the brand.

Looks like a couple of old fucks and some old used to be kinda hot bitches.

Like mentioned. OEM is best. It may require a tad more fuel with advanced timing. And I don't even know why timing plates have - timing.

What do you think about making it lighter, spring loaded and aluminum backing plate? Nice product

60 mph with 2 people onboard. 50 - 55 mph easily if it's loaded. Of course that's with calm water and no wind and working the trim and/or trim tabs efficiently. For sure 60 mph (or even 50 mph) isn't practical cruising speed in most conditions in this boat.

It's no 35 footer but it works good for Norfork Lake. I'm from MO but pretty far from Lake of The Ozarks. My boat would be too small for there, I'd imagine. I thought I had some more pics and some of the inside as well, but can't find them. Don't mind the missing outdrive, LOL. It's fixed now. It grenaded itself with less than 50 hours in it. $$$$$$