DUNEDEMON

Yep, ask for "Kara" she is the owner, and she can make you a seat cover to match the plastics, she made mine.

^ ^ Now that is funny! Nice poem Loco...

Wauge28 I would need to know which one it is for sure, plus with that much rate you really need to think about having the shock re-valved to work with the increased rate ( I forgot to mention this earlier) Yes, wishful thinking. The nitrogen charge helps maintain pressure on the piston seperating the oil in the shock, it will not affect spring rate. No it will not, this would simply cause the spring to block out (some people call it "coil bind" ) before you use all of the rear shocks travel resulting in an even worse bottoming condition. Pre-load in a linear rate set up will not change the working spring rate. In my opinion given your weight and swing arm length with a good re-valve and a 7.6 or 8.1 spring you should have no issues, this is an educated guess simply because I am not familiar with your riding style. I dune very aggressively and this set up works excellent for me (+4 with a 7.6) - but I do have a TCS revalved rear shock.

I weigh 170, ride a +4 arm and run a 426 LB/IN (7.6 KG) spring on the back stock is 308 LB/IN (5.4 KG) waaaaaaaaaaaay to soft for a 170 lb guy on a +6 arm even with the pre-load cranked all the way down, all that does is adjust ride height, you have it maxed out because your spring rate is too light.

What do you weigh? Whata re the numbers on the Eibach spring? It might be too much rate for you. The stock spring will be to soft...

Thanks guys! Wallrat - no rain at Glamis....

Cascades clamps will work.

Honestly I don't think either pipe will pass the db requirements in stock form...

I asked for one for christmas

How did they turn out?

While I have seen "brighter" chrome on pipes, my Shearers look great - more of a heavy nickell look to them.

I'm thinking out loud here, to have a rear shock built to work with a no-link swinger is going to be more expensive than a conventional set up, and here is why. The linkage on a stock style banshee changes the motion ratio of the rear suspension through the travel providing a progressive ride and maintaining good ride quality over small bumps. So to run a no link set up will require significantly more spring rate to produce the same wheel rate, but to maintain the small bump ride quality is going to require a multi rate spring set up which requires more packaging length which could to some extent dictate the rear frame and suspension pick up points. Furhtermore most top level shock builders are very familiar with the standard banshee rear suspension configuration so it is very easy for them to valve and spring a rear shock to your specs because the only major variable is swing arm length. Without your shock builder being involved in the rear linkage changes and possible frame changes made to the rear suspension could possibly require you taking the bike to them for measurements. Again I was just thinking out loud here, call your shock builder and see what they have to say. Good luck with your project - it sounds like fun, and please post some pictures for us to have a look at, I ride a purpose built dune bike myself.

A 4+1 backspace wheel should have you stylin'.

I'm suprised no one suggested the use of a thread file...May have worked?

Ouch sorry man..........didn't mean to piss in your Cherios. Right back at ya'

When are you going?

Nice, congrats. Now where are the pictures of your swinger & clutch cover we have all been waiting for? Plus you do realize that Christmas is this Friday don't you? For all the $$ you have spent on your machine recently you had better have some awesome gifts for your wife and son...

Stu, that bike needs a bath! But I'm liking that Brembno rear caliper.

Holy shit! Where did it happen at?

What are you replacing them with?

Try calling some hot-rod or harley shops in your area, those guys love powdercoating and should have some leads for you.

Sorry to hear that, I hope no one was injured, best of luck.

I have the same UPP slider. Pull it back off the arm and make sure the hole is threaded correctly in the main portion of the slider, then re-install on the swinger and make sure you line the bolt up accordingly, should only take 2 minutes ...

Could depend on the shock company, shock models, options, hell even the site design - couldn't tell you. Your best bet is to contact the company you have in mind and discuss options with them.