23champ

I think he means Big Bear Colorado. Not Big Bear Yamaha.

Nope, hes talking about the arrow on the clutch arm where your clutch cable connects to the arm at the cases(right under the left carb). If you look closely you will see that the clutch arm has the shape of an arrow on it. This should line up with another arrow wich is located right in front of the serial# on the cases. You adjust this by the internal adjusting screw located in the center of the presure plate. It has a phillips head screw with a jam nut on it. I don't think it really makes a difference as long as you have the proper play in your lever. My arrows never did line up, even when it was new, and I never had a problem with a slipping clutch until I got my motor work done. Thats when I put a new barnett clutch in it, and lined the arrows up. Then it started slipping about two weeks later and burnt the barnett up,so I pulled it apart and put the stock fibers back in it, and its been fine since. Needless to say my opinion of the $90 barnett is not a good one. And yes I put all the stiffer rate springs in it upon installation.

Hey huggies, I know a guy who has a 2003 polaris 600 twin with big tires and chrome wheels for sale for 5000, excellent condition! From what I understand you live about 20 miles from him. Maybe you should put Polaris on your POLL to.

Sounds like an good plan to me. Dump 10 grand into it so you can sell it for 5. Good think'n dipshit.

Has anyone tried CPI's on a Passion stroker? I'm runnin FMF fatties, but wanting a little more on top. I like the rockets but DAMN... they're huge. I know a guy thats got a set of CPI's, and I'm thinkin I can get them pretty cheap. The only problem is I don't want to shell out the cash for them and not like em.

When mine was stock I couldn't get the needle rich enough, it would always cough in the mid range. I went with the Dyno Jet jet kit. Stuck the 290 mains in, stock pilot, needle one clip from bottom. Jetting was perfect after that. The best it ever ran when it was stock....My elevation is around 1500ft above sea level.

when is it?

congrats, that's pretty cool. Thanks bro.

I think he has mikuni's not kehin's

I grew up hillclimbing motorcycles. In 1999 I started going to Minnesota to race, which is also known by the AMA to be district 23. In 2001 I won the AMA 600cc points championship in district 23. I was know as "The fastest man in Minnesota" in 2001. The name 23champ just kinda stuck, so I use it for almost all my login names. 23Champ aka Eric Donaldson

I've had several welding jobs. I work at a place that makes custom prefabbed buildings (big buildings). Everything is miller, which is the way I like it. I usually run about 29.5 - 30.5 volts. and anywhere from 380ipm to 435ipm on wire. But these guns we use are bad ass, they have smoke eaters built into them, and a high/low switch on them. Which can change your voltage and wire speed at the flip of a switch. (example) High 29.5/380, Low 25.0/330. So when you weld out of postion or weld on thinner material you can just flip the switch to low and there are no worries about burn through. Bad thing about the gun is that its huge. After welding with one of these guns, goimg back to a normal gun makes you feel like your holding a toy.

I had the same problem. While I had my motor apart putting the 4mm stroker crank in I figured what the hell, I might as well go ahead and put a new clutch in since it was already tore apart. I went for the barnett dirt digger, because I have ran EBC's before in my CR and didn't really like them to much (Give it a bad case of the creepy clutch). It turns out the barnett was no good either. It lasted about 3hrs. so pulled the clutch cover off and stuck the stock fibers back in with the barnett steels and springs and it seems to be holding for now. But I think I am going to go with the R1 plates sooner or later.

I found a new RAD carrier for $130 (its a blem), or a Boss Racing carrier for $120. Both are dual row. I think I would like the dual row a little better, they seem like they would last longer.

While we're on the topic of Dyna, I always wondered how much they advance the timing. Can you program it to the perfered degree? Can it, or will it take the place of an adjustable stator plate? I am aware that it has like three differnt curves, but can you program your own in? If so can you do it yourself,and how hard is it to do. And last but not least, can you program it to have like (example) 5 degree advance from say 0-6000 rpm,(to give you more hp for the holeshot) then have it start to retard from 6000 to peak rpm for more over rev?

looks like the Incredible Hulk should be riding it

That is a killer deal. I got my front end from them about a year ago, and spent about the same money for junk ass american star racing (which one of them has already been bent and replaced) and works. Wish they had that deal when I got mine, but I guess thats just how my luck goes... Shit... that pisses me off.

I was thinking of getting an aftermarket swingarm with a round honda style carrier. While pondering my options I've noticed that there are different styles of carriers, dual row, and tapered. Whats the advantage of having a tapered over the dual row. I'm looking for an all around trail, mx, drag, whatever carrier, I run my rig in all conditions.

Go with the elkas. I got the works steelers, and wish I didn't. Don't make the same mistake.

He's not gonna run 4 pipes on a twin. Hes gonna have two motors on it, one for $800 ,and one for $1200. I hope that $800 motor can keep up with the $1200 one.

brand new 1987 honda fourtrax 200sx. Had it for about 4 or 5 years, I must have rode it everyday to. That thing was a chunck of shit by the time I traded it. Next it was a tecate 4, wich was straight line machine only, It hauled ass in straight line, but corners were a problem because of the narrow, top heavy, twitchy, poor handling feel of the machine. Next was an 86 TRX 250r. This thing was sweet, it was everything the tecate wasn't. It was even faster (minor porting before i bought it). Some guy called up one day out of the blue and wanted to buy it. So I sold it for about $800 more than what I bought it for. Then about 7 years later I bought the 01' banshee, by far the most fun on a quad I've ever had.

The twelve port has 2 more ports on each cylinder, called "boost ports" located on the sides of the intake (internally). In order for the boost ports to be added the cylinders have to be welded on the exterior, right in front of the intake tract, right beside the rear cylinder base studs. This has to be done because when the bost ports are added if it were not built up with weld there simply wouldn't be enough material, and the tool being use to bore the boost ports would end up leaving a huge hole in the side of you cylinder so by building up the outside of the cylinder with weld that allows enough room for the boost ports to be added. Boost ports allow your engine to start pulling lower in the rpm range. For example, a stock engine starts pulling hard at about 6000 rpm and pulls to about 9 or 10 grand. With the twelve port it will come on at about 4000 and pull extremely hard to about 11,000. Anyway thats what I get out of it.

I think perry runs a 15 up front and a 40 or 41 on back but it seems like its geared a little tall, but that could be because of his crazy ass drag style porting to. I'd maybe try 14/40. with the portting it should at least pull one tooth taller on the front. I remeber when ron was first building the hill, I rode my banshee on it with no porting just pipes and +4 key stock gearing comin out in second and hit third right before i hit the hill. It pulled it fine,but it was real dusty and loose that day too.

Loco, you gonna have the rockets on for this weekend?

Looks like a good time to me.