Ducman

Them are some mighty big snails! Makes the mutt ETE32 on my eclipse GSX look like a baby. Whish mine screamed as loud as the those too.

Oops, forgot to add a link so you could check it out

I'm in the process of rebuilding my wifes blaster, modding it with the Vito's 240 kit and a new crank. Hope that livens the ol' dog up some. While at the blaster HQ I came accross and saw that a lot of people have this "riffel" mod done to their stock and aftermarket carbs. Has anyone tried this? Anyone got any knowlede of this. I haven't heard of any banshees with rifeled carbs. Seems like it would be similar to boring the carb out cause it would add more open X-sectional area to the inside of the carb with the added benifit of more turbulance so atomise the fuel and maybe cut down on the boundary layer air friction along the carb walls to help speed up the air flow. They were having a promotional short term price of $50 per carb. Boring the stock carb is usually around $80 each right? Good Idea for the banshee or no?

Maybe one of those electric push button barbeque lighters that run off the 9 volt battery, the kind that when you push a button it goes "snap sanp snap" really fast. Rig it with a toggle swithch rather than the push button. Would be cheap to try. The flames would look really sweet while warming it up for a night ride. Fire! Fire! Ya! Ya! Hehehe

I know what your sayin, I have a hard time getting my helmet over mine... Im also getting some work done, im goin in next thursday for my long rod and big bore head job. G/l with the noss head, let us know what you think about it after you go for a ride. Airbrush the tierra on the helmet, no more excuses for not wearing it now. Wish I had a long rod.

So for HQer's its $400 + shipping. What about the chrome would they be $500 then for HQers + shipping? Hmmmmmmmm You accept paypal?

FMF STS and PTR Mids are probably the best all around pipes for keeping bottom end and adding top as well. I love my Gnarlies for trails, hill climbs, cruising around, pretty much any riding conditions they doo good in, but I wish I had some high revs when I'm in the sand and want to go fast or to be able to pull 5th and 6th gear real stong. If you want a set of Gnarlies PM me, I'm looking into getting some more high reving for the sand. The Gnarlies still look mint.

Clymer is the guy going up the hill. Just kidding, its a brand of shop manual. Reeds act like a one way valve that keeps the air and fuel moving forward into the cylender and stops it from flowing backwards. When the piston is moving down and the intake port is open (so it is sucking fuel in) the reed flexes to open the passage, when the piston is moving back up it wants to push the air back towards the carbs but the reed is pushed against the reed cage closing the intake tract and blocks the air from going back. The reeds mainly affect your power delivery characteristics and typically dont make a whole lot more power overall, but may add more power in certain RPM ranges and tune the intake for the type of power you are looking for. So the best ones are the ones that fit the power delivery that you are looking for. Typically the basic reed is either more flexible and opens easier for bottom end or stiffer and harder to open for top end compared to stock. A stiffer reed works like a stiffer spring on a 4 stroke valve, so when your at really high RPMs you dont "float the valve" so it in effect it doesn't just stay open. A lot of reeds are desinged to try to give the best of both types of reed in a single reed so you get better bottom end throttle response and power with better top end power too. Delta V-force is an aftermarket reed cage where you have a double wedge design so you get 4 reeds (2 wedges) to each cylinder rather than 2 on the stock single wedge shaped reed cage. This is probably the best since it may offer more overall flow and add power rather than just change it. Boysen power reeds have 2 holes in the main reed with 2 smaller reeds on top of the main reed covering the wholes. So the small ones open first (I think) and are more sensitive and open easily for good bottom end and throttle response and the larger petal is stiffer so it opens on the top end and gives better power at WOT. Power curve reeds have a tapered thickness (I thinK) so they theoretically are sensitive at the tips and open easy on the bottom end yet most of the reed is thick so it behaves like a stiff reed on the top end for better top end power. Pick your reeds based of what you want them to do. Ported reed cage with stiff reeds for top end. Or power reeds for more bottom and mid. V-force is probably best all around but costs +$200. There's a lot to choose from and I haven't got it all completely figured out yet, if I've goofed on any of this info please feel free to correct me.

Dirtgrrl, whatta ya wanna get the bigbore kit for anyway? I prefer the stock jugs myself, maybe a little port work later on if they need it. Wont it make it hard to ride the banshee in the whoops and comming down after big air, and think of all the down time. Unless its an occupational necessity I say its not worth it, just keep the slop out of the bottom end and you'll be fine.

Minnesota to Toronto? Thats not too far appart is it? I say ship yourself and ride it home!

The elevation of the water level of the Ocean is sea level. All land not covered by ocean is some distance above the sea level (exept death valley and other rarities of coarse). You know the sign on the highway comming in to a town that says for example ( City of Chico, population - 80,000 Elevation - 236ft) this means Chico is 236ft above sea level. Just go to yahoo or a similar seach engine and type in your towns name and elevation and it will come up with some links that will tell you. #240 mains are way too small for any aftermarket pipe, are you sure they didn't say #340? Anyway, if you run 240's you will be running really lean which will result in not making near as much power as the engine should and causing really high combustion chamber temperatures which will cause overheating and start to melt the top of your piston near the exhaust port and lead to early piston failure. If you ride it hard enough you could easily smoke the top end within 5 minutes.

Aproximate jetting for sea level, 60 to 80 degrees, airbox lid on W/ snorkel removed and the stock foam filter. #30 pilots air screws 2 turns out Needle in stock position (3rd clip) #270 mains You may want to start slightly richer on the mains but that is my guess for what the mains will be when you are dialed in. Read the jetting FAQ, it has good instrucrtions for how to change the jets and pics of what it looks like inside the carbs and where the pilot and main jet are located.

They sound like a pretty good pipe. Many questions. How is the fit as far as fitting under the stock fenders and access to the head and carbs. Also for the $400 pipes, do they come with any crome/nickle or are they bare? Is there a simple off the shelf spark arestor that fit the silencers or are they available with a turbine core style silencer. How would you say these compare with the FMF STS.

DirtGrrl or should it be DirtyGrrl Your provacative, yet subtle funny little jokes could turn this into the longest thread in HQ history, and thats fine by me! Dont know what you look like, and sounds like your not the type to wear a tierra, but you could be a candidate for Miss Banshee USA! I know how you feel though, when you get a new mod you've been dying to get for your ride, you install it and you take it out for a test drive, it's like putting a little spice into an already exciting relationship. I didn't know girls could get banshee fever like this.

Milling the head will give you a lot of low end torque and a little more HP throughout the whole RPM range but not a lot. It makes slow riding and cruising easier and more injoyable and gives you some more power before the band kicks in so it feels a little smoother when the power kick in. If you want a substantial increase go for pipes and then for even more HP after the pipes get the cylinders ported. You should first check your compresion and make sure your shee is healthy.

No shit! Half the time of riding a banshee is like one big fast hairy adrinalin filled wreck avoidance. If your in the sand and you don't break your whip flag off every once in a while you aren't trying hard enough. I think I'll take ninjamasters silence as an admision of guilt!

rjvioght, I totally agree. When I was 17 or 18, 10 years ago, I couldn't plan a trip that far in advance, was too clueless, and the internet didn't have the info like it does now on all the camp sites to set up a trip to the dunes. Hell, my friends and I were extremely fortunate if all of our bikes were running at the same time and we had gas money to make it there. We just got in my dads truck and went for it and if we couldn't have camped on the sand then we probably would have been screwed, especially comming from 7 hours away. You have my support all the way. You are 100% correct, most of those small towns would starve if it weren't for duners. The larger ones like Florance and Coos Bay might not be immediately hurt but as soon as the many businesses that depend on the revenues from a few turists here and there to stay a float start going out of business they will bring down many more with them and before you know it, those towns will be hurting even worse. They don't realize how much cash stays in town from those guys in the $250K motorhomes with the Hummer and 10 quads.

Hey Led, When I was at the doons recently I had a problem hiting fase neutrals between 4th and 3rd and 3rd and 2nd when I was in 4th or 3rd going flat out up a steep hill and then having to slow down half way up the hill to negotiate turns or obsticles and get back on the power again in the lower gear. I hadn't ever had the problem before but it did it a few times on this one particular hill. A couple of times I hit the throttle expecting to hit the band in the next gear down and the motor just reved to the sky. Sometimes I was able to shift down again and save the climb, others I it took too long and I bogged and lost too much momentum and ended up digging a hole and geting stuck. When shifting down due to bogging in a high gear it wasn't a problem, only when I had to let completely off the gas for about a half a second to turn and shifted down. An it never jammed like you described. Do you think your shifter mod will remedy my false neural problem or do I just need to work on some cleaner downshifts or something?

You need to post your elevation, temp, and air filter type so we can figure out what you've got going on. Also, at what rpm range and throtle position do you seem to have a problem, maybe your problem could be with the pilots or needle jetting circut. How does it perform flat out at wide open throttle? I would think with CPI's, the snorkel removed, airbox lid on, foam air filter, sea level, 60 - 80 degrees, the mains should be at least a 270 on CPI's.

I have the exact same set up. You might be slightly lean when its below 60 degrees. When I had the lid on and #30 pilots and it got down to 50 degrees it got a bit lean and could of used one more size on the main. With your smaller pilots your getting even less fuel at WOT. FMF recommends #30 pilots with the all their pipes. Thats what I run and I really like the way mine idles, off idle throttle response, and low end low rpm 0 to 1/4 throttle power, but I never tried it with stock pilot jets so it's hard to compare. I can put around at really low rpms in 1rst and 2nd gear in the sand with the tires digging and rarely ever have to clutch it to get the RPMs up to get into the power. The FMF pipes come with the #260 mains for running the stock box and filter with only the snorkel removed but they dont come with the pilots which are in the recommended jetting instructions that come with the pipes. A lot of people will put in the mains because they are easy to install but neglect to follow the rest of the jetting recommendations and do the pilots or adjust the air screws and idle correctly. I'd say your current jetting would be fine for summer jetting with temps from 65 to 90 degrees. I'm just curious, how does your bike idle and how is off idle throttle response? How does your plugs look after riding and have you ever performed a plug chop?

I haven't tried it on the shee, but I know it can be done. I've rolled it too so be careful. I would think that full sand set up; paddles in back and buffs with ridges in front would help a lot.

If you buy the pro-flow adapter plate and use a foam air filter, and keep the air box the same as it is now, that is if the lid is on keep it on, if the snorkel is on keep it on, then you should NOT need to rejet. Most foam filters flow about the same as stock. You still need to do a WOT plug check to verify. If you go with a K&N and/or change the box configuration you definitly will need to rejet. The first time rejetting is a little difficult but after you get efficient at it it will no longer hinder your decision to add air flow mods and you'll be a power mod junky like the rest of us.

Makes a little more difference when removing the lid with pipes vs stock pipes and even more difference when removing the lid with pipes and a K&N vs pipes and foam filter. With pipes and a foam filter & nonported, going up 2 main sizes will usually do it for going from stock lid (snorkel off, lid un-cut) to lid off. Depending on how modded or how many holes you got in your air box lid, if you have enough open area it wont make any difference taking it off. With just the last 1.5" cut off the lid, probably go up zero to 1 main size, possibly 2 with K&N and high rev pipes.

The manual is BS, way overly conservative. 32:1 is fine on the yama 2R. Maxima - Castor 927 at 40:1 for me please.

That was a nice roost comming off the shee, looked like a drag boat, wouldn't feel too good in your face without a helmet and goggles.