Ducman

Well then, what category would you put the Toomey style 2 into 1 into. Wasn't posting to ask advice, just a tip on good deals bro.

Nice of you to finally join us 1sikbanshee, Your Late! Lots of mods to do, carbs to jet, tits to look at. Better get crackin!

We'll for what it's worth, I went from FMF Gnarlies (low to mid pipe) to the Rockets on a stock port motor and for the small amount of low end I lost, the huge top end that I gained was well worth it. It seriously didn't even cause me to have to clutch it more or anything. Most of the riding near my house is trail with decent open areas in creek bottom. It definitly had a lot more lag before hitting the band than before but power came on fairly smooth and strangely it seemed like it still had decent torque down low, just as good as before, just didn't get on the pipes quite as fast or as low of RPMs. But on a loose sandy/gravely creek bottom surface (my drag strip) that I always do my plug checks on near my house, typically when I launch it just spins the tires (nobbies, stock gearing) untill I hit 4th gear where it would finally bog down and require a little clutch feathering, with the rockets it would spin 4th and not bog utill 5th. Basically getting my wheel speed way faster than my actual speed untill it was pulling as much or more wheel spin friction than the motor could handle. The best part is that it wouldn't pull 6th strong at all, bearly able to rev out, and with the rockets it would rev to the moon in 6th easy pulling like a Mo Fo. The FMFs were jetted near perfect at 280/290, I only ran the Rockets for a month or two before sending off the motor for mods and it was even jetted a little too rich at 320 on the mains the whole time. I don't know how true this is, but I think that if you construct a pipe that is shaped so that it fits under the stock fenders, bends down to allow easy access to the spark plugs and fuel clock then the shape, even if it works pretty good, is still a compromized shape that could have been made better if it weren't constrained to a shape that fits those non performance needs. If you aren't worried about fitting the fenders, exc. then the shape of the expansion chamber is much less compromized, even less with out of frame pipes. If you could make the Ideal pipe and expansion chamber it would be straigt and symmetrical, not fifty different cureves and 5 A-semmetrical bubbles merged together. It seams like a big advantage in creating a better pipe to not end up with a better pipe.

Something to cosider. If you ride in the doons and you get a doon port, emphasis on top end then you'll probably want a bigger set of carbs. Lets say you get bigger carbs, now you will need to connect them to the reed cage so you will want to get a manifold with boots that fit the bigger carb, lets say prodesign, add $200. Well now you can choose the prodesing that is made for v-force reeds, or one for a stock style reed cage. Well if you always thought you wanted a set of V-force reed cages aventually and don't want to exclude them from working ag good on your shee by getting the stock style manifold, might as well add them to the credit card while your at it. add $230 Shit! You just spent $800 on carbs, boots, throttle cable, twist throttle, jets, manifold, reeds. Oh wait, sorry I was talking about myself again! Is there a link to a 12 step program on the banshee forum? Cause all my money keeps going I can quit any time I want, right now I just dont feel like quitting!

Well it tipically costs a bit more than $40 just to have a set of carbs bored pluss shipping. Figure out what stock carbs are worth (there are tons of them on e-bay, search items that have already sold) and add about $75. That ought to get you to a close minimum worth.

What the guys were telling you was a good assumption, thinking you were lean, not knowing that Big Bear is like 6000+ ft El. I'm sure you had to be way rich, especially if you were running good before. I would think that a #25 pilot would work, but it may have been a bit too rich. Were you turning your air screws out to lean up the pilot (like 3 turns out or so?). If you turned them in that would make it worse. Also you say that you moved the clip up on the needle one position from the middle clip? Towards the blunt end? Cause if you did that you would be making the needle richer which in combo with a too rich of a main and pilot would probably screw you like what you described. In my experience when you finally get her reved up high enough it will usually pull decent even with a very rich main, but the bottom/mid end is pretty F'ed. This is similar symptoms to when the air filter gets clogged enough to start siverely affect performance. Mostly from experience with my wifes blaster that seems to never be all the way happy with jetting when I take it somewhere after getting the jetting spot on at home. Or, after riding it 2 days in the sand the outerwears get clogged bad.

If that setup in the pic is as reliable as his swiss cheese frame, I think I'd keep the carbs! Sure do like the fuel injection on my Ducati though. Cold, hot, ride 0-8500ft elevation within 1 Hour (yes I actually did exactly that) runs perfect from the time you fire it up till you park it as long as you keep the rubber side down.

This may sound pretty nube to the seasoned duner, but hey, I just learned a new trick and I friggin impressed myself! As most of you know when you on the steap side of the dune drift side and you are doing an arcing turn on the dune face you get a sence of semi weightlessness. Its strange because as long as you keep you momentum its a very easy manuver. Get stopped sideways parallel to the face and the cross slope might be so steep that you roll your quad. Anyway, I'd seen a lot of quads and even sand rails doing it at Sand Mountain but rarely see it in Oregon, although 2 wheel bikes do it all the time; do a complete turn on the dune face while riding a wheelie the whole time. Over laborday we went to Winchester Bay and Horse Falls and sadly the banshee wasn't finished with its 4mm stroker project SOB! We'll I spent a lot of time on the wifes YZF 450 and wow, that mo fo makes riding wheelies up the dune face soooo damb easy! I wheelied all the way up Ol' Baldy at Winchester from the "S" turns on up to the top like a pro every time. I found that when your paralell to the dune face it rides wheelies very very easy because there aint much gravity to hold you down. In fact it tends to want to pull you off the steap ass drift face any way it can. Also I found that when you are in a wheelie parallel to the face gravity also tends to seem to turn you down hill. At winchester there are some pretty nice steep and tall drift faces. I started getting braver and braver. Shit, before I new it I was going up the hill, pointing it in in a slight side slope direction and pull up the front wheels, give her a little boddy english and riding a big fuckin arcing wheelie across the doon face! Ah hell yeah! After I started doing it I was like a kind in a candy store. I did it like 20 times in a row. Not a perfect wheelie every time, a couple of touch and goes here and there, but fun as a pig in shit every time. The wife even got a couple of nice pics. Hopefully I might be able to get them up loaded at work sometime soon, home dialup is too slow to even bother. Is there a name for this manuver? You all know what I'm talking about? Am I just a big sand rookie and think I just invented the wheel? I swear if you haven't done this before you got to try it. It's soo damb easy. I think the YZF450 makes it 10 times easier than the banshee due to the torquey thumper power but I'm sure I could do it on the Banshee now that I've done it.

I just noticed the pictures show all of the other quads with paddle and the banshee with stock knobies. Well the banshee would have to have its hands tied behind its back for an outcome like that.

Yeah I agree with chris642's comments and ranking. The banshee is by far the most exciting bike to ride in the sand and way more comfortable than anything else I've rode. The only other bike I could possibly accept as #1 in the sand is the YZF450 because its a bad ass in the gettin air and wheely category. The only explanation that I can figure is a conspiracy where the EPA payed the magasine a shit load of money to make the Banshee look like the duck faced quad of choise for homo's everywhere. If they make it look gay enough and say its slower and sucks in every way then maybe people will start wanting the 4strokes more. If they can make it unpopular enough they may finally be able to get rid of the 2 stroke that just wont die that they hate so much. Or the most likely explanation is which company paid the most money to the magazine to get their machine higher up on the list. I say the Kawasuky Prarie.. er.. uh.. I mean V-force paid the most money to even be entered on the list. Put some work racks on that pig for hauling an ice chest full of beer cause thats all that cow of a fugly quad would be good for in the sand. Seriously! Do those new plastics come with a dildoe? If I absolutely had to buy a new duck style banshee I would order a new set of the regular banshee plastics and make the dealer put them on before I would be willing to be pick it up or be seen with it in the back of my rig.

If you were thinking of getting the Toomy 2 into 1 intake/airfilter setup or a set of K&N pod filters check out this page on the Moto Carrera website. Seems like some good deals to me. I'm depressed that the 2 into 1 only fits 26 thru 28mm carbs though. Had to spend $45 for a set of carb boots from Moto Carrera to fit some 34mm carbs to the stock air box. Probably better for the water that way though. I recently bought some 34mm carbs, boots, cable, and twist throttle (motion pro throttle $24) and they had it all in stock.

I own a banshee and a yzf 450 (technically the wifes 450) and although the banshee was only stock for a very short time so it's hard to compare, I wouldn't put it past a stock banshee to beat the 450 on pavement. The banshee revs way faster which causes tons of wheel spin on dirt, sand/ect. where as the 450 revs a bit slower so it gets the power down beter, hooks up and pulls harder. But you get that bashee hooked up well on the pavement and keep the front end down and you got some bad ass acceleration. Also the 450 has a much taller first gear so its harder to launch when there is a ton of traction like on pavement.

My wife seems to remember the guys with odd ball bikes like the ones that are all furred out in leapord print or the CBR 600 turned into a quad. I like the banging the grab bar and slapping the back of the seat idea. If it works and the chick is impressed at least you know she's horney and might be willing to slice off a piece. If a chick is just impressed with all the bling bling on your quad then she's just trying to measure the quantity in your wallet.

#27.5 or 30 pilots, needle middle clip, 270 mains with airbox lid on, 290 air box lid off. That is if you have a foam filter, add a couple sizes on the mains for a K&N

Little friendly rivalry goin on here or grudge match? On the Dana variable timing advance VS constant timing advance with stock anvance curve issue, I believe it was Banchetta that said he did some dyno testing and said that he found that the stock curve was a very good curve for making good all around power and that it just needed more advance accross the board to perform well with pipes, porting and other air flow mods. But yeah I can see how having say +6 over stock at mid rpms and +3 over stock at high rpms could be benificial so can get the maximum benifits of timing advance and you dont get the overheating or detonation problems from being too advanced at the upper rpms.

Sand Sharks run like a set of worn out Skate II's

Getting back to the original question: will the stock rod porting work? I believe that porting specifically for the long rod is necessary to make it run right even with the 795 series (long rod) pistons because when you decrease the angle between the rod and the piston it is makeing the piston stay at the top and bottom of the throw for a longer period of time (increases dwell time) and increases the speed that it is traveling in the middle of its throw. That is the reason that it needs incrased durration as someone else mentioned. It would probably work but will run like a much more mild port job than it would with a stock rod crank. Thats the way I understand it. As for the duel carbs vs single I say single carb for mx, trail, or woods emphasis on smoother power, throttle responce, and midrange, duel carbs for sand and drag settups, emphasis more on top end.

I just got some 34mm carbs (still in the mail) from Moto Carrera and ordered some boots to fit the stock airbox. Kinda pricy at around $45 though. I'd try the stretch method and maybe buy some boots if it wont work. I have started leaving the boots on the carbs when messing with jetting. Seems easier to get the boots around the airbox vs getting the carbs in the boots. If you can get them on good you should only have to fight them once.

Believe me, I thought about it! Shorty's said that they thought it might be starting to make the cylinder too swiss cheasy. Too many gaps the ring is passing over putting a lot of stress on it possibly making it unrelaible. I think it would work. It would be a good question to ask PassionRE why he doesn't do this. I'm sure he could. There must be a reason why he doesn't. 14 port banshee stroker motor yielding 4 stroke death and destruction!

Imma throw in a vote on the PTR Mids just cause the corkscrew shape pipes just look friggin sweet. And the trail riddding thing too.

The tripple port exhaust has a small boost port machined on either side of the exhaust port just like PassionRe's boost ports on either side of the intake ports. I discussed this with Shorty's and they said that they thought it was more important for the top end to make the exhaust port as big as possible. Make it too big and the rings will hang up on the port. The small side ports make the total exhaust port bigger than the main port can be made. They said the boost ports on the intake side would make a good torque motor but didn't think that it could get all the exhaust out on the top end, like too much intake and not enough exhaust. Now I know PassionRE makes a bad ass motor that pulls to the sky so I'n not buying it hook line and sinker. However, the supercharging effect of the exhaust is what makes the 2 stroke power band happen so I can see that the exhaust side boost ports probably achieve a higher top end cylender pressure and exhaust flow. Now all that said, the main reason I got the Shorty's 4mm stroker engine build was price. The Passion kit was like $1250 for the porting and all the parts needed and you put it together yourself. Shorty's gave me a price of $1465 for the following: wiseco 4mm long rod crank ($450), stroker domes, prodesign ignition advance plate, lighten flywheel, bore the stock carbs to 28mm, tear down and rebuild the motor, and return shipping all included. That was with my %10 discount for first time purchase from shorty's. Passion probaly builds a better motor and I'm finding out that Shorty's customer service kinda sucks so you kinda get the quality and customer service vs price trade off. To be fair, around Laborday weekend is one of the most buisy times of the year for Oregon dune customers. The other factor is that portland OR is within driving disance of Northern CA, Passion in OK is not. I figured if something got screwed up and I needed to wring someones neck, I could make a trip to Shorty's. He he he. Although I'm sure that Passion gets enough business from the HQ and he has established a solid rep for customer service with people on the HQ. Back to the 34mm carbs, (Oilsmoke) Thanks bro, I guess I will probably try the #40 pilots first since you said that #35's worked for you and #30's and 27.5's were too small. If the #40's are too big then I'll get some #35's and try them. I'll try the #300 mains to start with and do a plug chop when shee's broke in. How about the needle, Middle clip? Hopefully the standard needles don't have too steep of a taper.

Thanks Oilsmoke, exactly what I was looking for. What pilots are you running?

I've got no big carb or 4mm stroker experience and need a ball park starting point for the jetting. Well I have my 4mm stroker, tripple exhaust port (aggressive dune port empahsis on top end, not quite a drag port through) installed and ready to go and no carbs to fire the bitch up. Shorty's racing didn't send my stock carbs back bored to 28mm with my motor when they sent it back. Got a hold of them and they said they would send them out ASAP but I still haven't got them almost 2 weeks later and they are a PITA to contact. The whole story will be in the product review I plan on doing when I finally get shee running and some seat time. I wanted a set of bigger carbs anyway so now I have a set of 34mm Mikuni flatsides in the mail. Shorties said that the recommended main size on the bored carbs was a 320 which seems fairly small to me although 4mm strokers are a whole different animal in which I have no experience. But most of Shortys experience is with CPI's and from what I've gathered and experienced Rockets like a bigger main than just about any other pipe and CPI's run a somewhat leaner main. I was running slightly rich on 320's with the stock carbs/motor. I bought a set of 34mm Mikuni flat slide carbs from Moto Carrera. They said the carbs come standard with a #50 pilot and a #280 main and I forget what needle. They said that with a bigger carb the main size needed will be smaller than say the stock carb size but weren't much help at all with giving me a ball park starting point. I'd say about 2 degrees more intellegent than the average stealership. They are sending a #40 and #45 pilots with the carbs, I can get #30 or 35s locally. They said they would try anywhere from a #260 to a #320 main ( I have all those sizes). Mods effecting jetting - stock air box/foam filter lid off, Boisen duel stage reeds/stock cage (V-force coming soon), 34mm mikuni flatsides, BOSS 34mm intake, 4mm stroker tripple exhaust port (aggressive dune port), timing advance 6 degrees, Rocket inframes. Sea Level to 500' Temp approx. 70 deg Thanks in advance for the tips.

I wouldn't run it with the Fatties and stock jetting and it wont hit the band and rev well under a load anyway. (starting and adjusting the air screws is ok) The typical main size that come on a stock banshee are #200s. If you put the pipes on, install the 270 mains, remove the airbox snorkel but leave the air box lid on it should be fine. The stock pilot jets #25's may be a bit small but should work. You will probably want to turn the air screws to within 1 or 1/2 turn of seated (all the way in) to richen up the pilot circut. With small pilots that are running a litle on the lean side, richening the needle (move the clip one or 2 slots away from the blunt end) will help compensate.

Edwards is Kerrys little bitch eh? I was suspicious! You would also think that a so-called Green Pay Packers fan, "Meat Packers" apperently, would know to say Lambo field not Lambert field like he did in a speach in Green Bay the other day. Shucks, there go the swing state votes.