Ducman

Sand on the Oregon coast is definitly cleaner, bigger particles and not as many fines, and inland sand. Maybe thats the difference. I know that the blaster my wife had would get the outerwear clogged really bad in the sand in any condition. I have been in some pretty dusty conditions with my foam pods and have no dirt residue in the carbs or inside of the filter.. The foam isn't all that thick either, flows air probably as good as K&N. Sand sticks to the oiled foam pods pretty bad though, but I don't think it restricts the airflow all that much, just hard to get all the sand unstuck and out of the foam when cleaning. I have some K&N pods and outerwear but I haven't used them yet.

I'd run the T-5's they'll respond well to the mods. You'll want to spend any extra $ on other stuff soon anyways.

was this in dusty conditions in dirt or in sand, what size carbs?

.030" is about the most you can go and still be safe on the squish clearance, cost about $50 from boonman, and you can still run premium pump fuel. I think cylinder pressure comes out to around 150 psi (sealevel) about like a 21cc dome You can mill a lot more if you have the domes recut, basically just cutting the squish a little deeper so you maintain enough squish clearance to give you at least .035" clearance from the dome to the top of the piston. If you mill enough of the bottom of the head and recut squish the dome will effectively become smaller so compression is high enough that you have to run race fuel. Trinity will do this for about $125. Either way check your squish clearance to make sure it was done right when you reinstall your milled head.

Damb, I didn't even realize there was a team called the Texans, but I'm rooting for them now!

I don't know if this correct, but I'm pretty sure that it will be covered under your car insurance. One thing to consider is what is the max that comprehensive will cover. If you have a $30k truck and $15k worth of quads on the trailor, you might still only be covered up to a total of $30K if everything was all totalled at once and it was all your fault.

We'll I know I won't ever be getting a divorce because my wife swore if we ever did she was going after my Ducati and has since added the Banshee to the list. I just jokeingly say "We agreed untill death do we part and that doesn't mean that I'm the one that has to die first!" If you sell your stuff for very much less than they are worth then I'd bet your wife and a snake lawyer could get the remaining market value out of you. If you truly think that its over then I'd go see a lawyer before you even do anything else. How a lot of guys get screwed is because they don't want to see their wife and kids get hurt so they just lay down and take it in the arse and when they realize how deeply fucked they have become it's to late. And don't expect any sympathy because she will feel completly entitled to every penny and drop of blood she gets and even more that she didn't. My parents went through an ammocable divorce, my dad layed down and took out a huge loan against his dairy business to pay off the family house and the 60 acres around it (60 acres of alphalpha), to give to my mom. It wasn't enough for her so almost a year later she got a lawyer and went after more, turned out she had already got more than she deserved so she kept the original agreement after both sides spend a bazilion dollars on attourneys.

I ended up taking my NOSS head on and off a few times recently in the process of taking measurements and getting some new stroker domes made by NOSS. I thought since I was draining and replacing the coolant a few times I would finish up by flushing the system and refilling with Engine Ice coolant. I met a few people at the doons that swore that it was the shizzel and that it was way better than the Red line Watter Wetter. Engine Ice is a coolant (blue in color) made by a company called Cycle Logic. I bought it at a local dealer for $16.95 for a 1/2 gallon (or 2 quarts = 1.89L) container. It is made to be used straight, no adding/mixing water. It is said to have increased wetting property over stangdard coolant so effectively the coolant behaves as if there is more surface area in the system for heat exchange. I believe it is also supposed to be biodegradable. To flush the system I first detached the radiator hose from the water pump and drained. I drained the coolant overflow bottle and left the hoses disconnected. I pushed a garden hose into the radiator hose and turned it on just a crack so as to not over presurize the system and blow seals. I let it run for a few minutes to clear out all remaining radiator fluid and then let drain again. Next, I did the same thing with a shop vac hooked up to blow air and blew air through the system untill it quit spitting water. Finally, I put the hoses back on and filled the system throught the radiator cap, let it idle for a few minutes and topped it off. Comparing it to previous use, the cooling system has always been completely stock and I used the regular ol' green shit you get already mixed 50/50 and ready to used from the auto parts store. As far as overheating, lot of times when trail riding especially in sand, or doing a lot of techical hill climbs back to back in 1rst through 3rd gear, and similar high load but low gear operation, it would spit a little coolant somethimes if you shut if off at the top of a hill or if you didn't run it at a decent speed to get some airflow through the radiator before shutting it down. And in general under these conditions you would get typically get a wiff of radiator fluid somethimes while riding especially at the top of a hill climb and you could feel quite a bit of heat comming off the motor and pipes. More or less typical banshee behavior from what I gather. This actually seamed worse on my stock motor compared to the 4mm stroker with +6 timing for what ever reason. So far with the engine ice, I have yet to ever spit or get a wiff of any coolant. I went trail riding on a steep ass gnarly rough trail that starts out at 1000 ft elev and ends at around 5000 ft elev. There are long stretches where you climb up in elevation and cant go faster than about second gear and I never had any indication that it was even getting hot. I felt very little heat comming off the motor and I swear, I dont know why it would make much difference, but my pipes even seem like they run cooler. I don't have a temp guage but I know it has made a very significant difference. Before you buy a bigger radiator or billet impeller to fix an overheating problem assuming you are jetted perfectly I'd try this shit out. To fill my entire cooling system including overflow bottle I only used most of a 1/2 gallon jug, and I bought 2 just to be safe. Now, I probably have enough left, I guess I'll have to do the YFZ.

If you want to get the 4 strokes out of the hole and keep them behind you, on a fairly stock bike the trick is going to be getting good traction on the launch for a hole shot and gearing and HP to stay ahead. For a stock motor I'd say a set of maxis I-razers for traction, a 15 tooth front sproket/stock rear, and FMF SST or similar good all around pipe. In a sand drag you'd want more of a high rev pipe, not for the launch, but to pull hard once your out of the hole since sand takes a bit more HP and higher revs in the taller gears. Mods like timing advance, lightened flywheel, more compresion will help you get out of the hole better too.

This ended up being a long ass post but its rainy outside, still storming here in CA and I'm bored. Hopefully it will shed some light on your situation and help others understand 4mm stroker/longrod and standard stroke/long rod setups. Disclaimer: I don't claim to be 100% technically accurate 100% of the time. Here is a good (link click here) that has a brief explanation of the difference between a long rod and a long rod stroker crank, as well as CC#'s for displacement of a standard stoke, 4mm stroker, and big bore sleeved stock and 4mm stroker. At .030 you'd be 382cc on a 4mm stroker. Your HP potential and what you will actually make really depends a lot on how aggressive your porting is fom mild to wild and even more on your supporting mods, carbs, pipes, reeds, timing, intake, domes. With mild porting on a 4mm stroker and mostly stock other than say pipes you could be anywhere from 45 to 65 hp. On a 4mm stroker with agresive porting and all the supporting mods that complement each other with perfect tuning you could be between 70 to 80. In your case r6rider04, you do need porting specific to the 4mm long rod stroker crank for optimum performance. It may run on stock crank porting but not like it should. If your builder/porter knows what crank and set-up you are running then they should know how to port specifically for that set-up. A longer stroke and/or longer rod affects port timing differently than a stock stroke/stock rod. 4mm stroker 5mm long rod setups: First most popular setup: If you have a spacer plate under the cylinders (approx 2 mm), this is to raise the cylinders up so your pistons don't go above the top of the cylinders due to 2mm added stroke length (2mm at top of stroke and 2mm at bottom). That takes care of the added stroke. Next you need wiseco 795 series pistons to run with the 5mm longer rods. The 795 series pistons have the wrist pin moved 5mm closer to the top of the piston so the distance from the top of the piston to the bottom of the rod stays the same as stock. Allows for use of standard cool head domes or stock head. Second option (which I have): You can go without a spacer plate under the cylinders and get custom stroker domes so the piston actually goes above the top of the cylinder into the domes, (which also requires porting specific to this setup). If you want to change domes you have to get custom stoker domes made which are somewhat specific to each motor as far as getting proper squish clearance. 795 series pistons are used to maintain stock rod to top of piston length. Third setup that I can think of, (someone correct me if I'm wrong) I think if you have an approximatly 7mm thick spacer plate you can run stock type pistons, but this will give you a really long total bottom of rod to top of piston length. (also requires specific porting for this set up). Also it adds a lot of transfer port volume. Maintains use of standard cool head domes or stock head. Here is a (link click here) to a thread I started a while back when I was tying to figure out what was the effect of long rods on stock crank. Also affects 4mm stroker crank. The long rod by itself DOES change how the motor runs by how it is effected by the port timing. The long rod changes the angle of the rod to the wrist pin (decrases angle) when it is midway through the pistons travel. This puts less stress on the pistons skirts (increases reliability/longevity) to hold the piston true to the cylinder. The different crank/rod angles also slows the pistons down in the top and bottom of the stroke (increases dwell time) and speeds them up in the middle of the stroke. The faster piston speed in mid stroke requires increased port timing to get the same air/exhaust in/out. If you threw in a long rod crank into a stock rod/crank motor with the same port timing to compare the two set-ups it would gain torque/midrange but rev slower and loose top end with the long rod. Hope this helps.

Well, if you get a true dune port you will loose even more bottom end. If that is a big conscern I might go with more of a MX port. I don't think any high rev pipe will give you a whole lot better bottom end over the others. I think the rockets have a slight edge in low rpm torque over the 3 you list, but I'm not very familiar with pt-hi rev. If you haven't advanced the timing +4, lightened the flywheel, or added compression (mill stock head, or smaller cool head domes), those are all good inexpensive mods to help bottom end power delivery. Some reeds may smooth out the lightswitch power hit of the toomys a little too.

I've shipped some stuff to Canada. Shipping by FedEx Ground or UPS Ground is no more expensive than shipping inside the US. Shipping will probably still only be $10. The catch is the sender will have to declair the value to be like $15 so the taxes the recipeint in Canada pays are low. It has always worked for me with no problems, the only catch is that it basically wont have any insurance, but unless it is lost in the mail it isn't going to break. If your talking about trinity (domes only) and flow pattern then they were probably talking about the "turbo mod" on the inside, combustion chamber surface of the dome. They have a swirl design that is supposed to cause turbulence when the piston is squishing the fuel mixutre into the dome and suposedly make some more HP. Looks like a place for carbon to collect and hot spots to form (bad for detonation) to me. Otherwise I cant immagine that the dome is any different than any other cool head style dome as fas as flow pattern. I would think flow pattern would more to do with the head body and the fins inside to deflect the collant from flowing straight across the head.

sanddevil111, sounds like yall might uh had a bit of trouble in school with the learnin and stuff. If you don't like technology why dont you go back to riding horeses.

We'll at least if you get the box of stuff back you aren't in any trouble because it won't be stealing, the most you could get in trouble for is trespassing. That totally sucks the cops aren't helping at all. Maybe if they won't help you they won't help him either, I'd like to tell you to stay out of trouble, but if it was my shit I'd be going postal on his ass. I guess I'm going to have to go along with others and say fuck him up. He can't go back inside and call the cops if his arms and legs are busted. Tell the cops that you went over to try to reason with the fucker and plead for him to give your stuff back and that he tried to start a fight and attacked you. This fuck needs some lead pipe flute lessons.

As far as the marvels mystry oil and not exceeding 3:1, you mean use those requirements for a 4 stroke motor not a 2 stroke right? And do you know what chemical difference there is between xylene and toluene. Are they both 114 octane? Also what do you mean when you say you had better luck with xylene, like you didn't blow as many motors or you just found it more readily available or cheaper. I'm curious because I'm serious about trying it in my Lightning especially when I install a crank pully on the supercharger belt to add 4psi of boost.

A couple examples I worked out using $2.05/gal for 91 octane gas and $5/gal for toluene For a vehicle with a 20 gal tank mixing 2 gal toluene {((18gal x 91 octane) + (2gal x 114 octane)) /20 } = 93.3 octane (10% toluene) $2.35 per galon mixing 3 galons {((17gal x 91 octane) + (3gal x 114 octane)) /20 } = 94.5 (15% toluene) $2.49 per galon Mixing 5 galons {((3gal x 91 octane) + (2gal x 114 octane)) /5 } = 100.2 (40% toluene) $3.23 per galon The more toluene you mix the more inefficient the ratio becomes and it is hard to get over 100 octane because if you mix 91 and 114 50/50 you still only get 103.5 octane. But if your only trying to get 100 octane it works pretty good. If you mix 110 race fuel with 91 you only get 100.5 octane at about $3.25 gal so if your already doing that you wont really save any $ but some people cant buy 110 where they live, but probably can get toluene. Also 110 race fuel is leaded so it wont work for a car with cats, toluene will.

I really liked this article and think I may have learned something. I stold this info that a guy posted in a Ford Lightning forum that he stold from somewhere else. I'm thinking about trying adding some to my fuel for some added protection against detonation in the winter and an overall performance boost in my lightning and possibly my banshee. Has anyone ever tried mixing fuel with toluene? To summarize the inportant points in the article, Toluene is an aromatic hydrocarbon which is virtually the same chemical composition as gas but has a slightly higher energy yield per volume. Your every day pump gas may already contain toluene. If you buy octane booster in a bottle, its main active ingrediant is toluene probably over 95% and its being sold at about 1000% markup over what you could buy the same shit at a paint store. You may be able to buy it more readily than race fuel in a small town. It has 114 octane rating and is cheaper per gallon than 114 octane race fuel but contains no lead. Probably a bit more expensive than 110 though. One thing I can say for sure is that in a vehicle that has a nock sensor which is almost all these days, if the motor senses nock it does retard the timing and/or increase fuel to lower air to fuel ratio which supresses detonation but also decreases power. It's like jeting the banshee pig rich. I definitly can say for sure and have experienced that in most new pickups especially ford and dodge V-8's they ping like a bitch with 87 octane under a load at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and the pinging goes away with 91 octane. On a naturally aspirated motor this probably makes a fair amount of difference but when your at WOT with say 10 psi of boost on my Lightning (14 when I add a pully) or 17 psi on my eclipse it makes a huge difference. I also though some people that mix race fuel 50/50 with pump fuel might benefit in performance and by saving a couple $ by mixing their fuel with toluene rather than race fuel. Any thoughts, experience, or opinions? The article: "Rocket fuel" for cars. Toulene R+M/2...114 Cost...$2.50/gal (fuel mixed with toluene) Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium 10%...94.2 Octane 20%...96.4 Octane 30%...98.6 Octane Notes: Common ingredient in Octane Boosters in a can. 12-16 ounces will only raise octane 2-3 *points*, I.e. from 92 to 92.3. Often costs $3-5 for 12-16 ounces, when it can be purchased for less than $3/gal at chemical supply houses or paint stores. Rocket fuel FAQ Copyright

I think the DMC 916's are really a duel pipe the singers just curve in to the center of the bike at the grag bar and go into a one piece duel outlet silencer that has a cross over tube in it or something.

You might need to re-jet if the pipe flows more air so it doesn't go lean, that would be the only danger. That and the niose violation ticket. I'm not sayin that the pipe will run better or give you more power with the silencers off because the pipes are tuned for use with the silencers. You never know it might decrease power a little on the botom end and increase top. I aint tryin toi stop you, kinda sounds fun. I fired up all my crotch rockets on straigt pipes before just to make a little noise for shits and giggles. Just don't run your bike hard or very long if removing the silencers causes it to run lean.

We'll I have had Gnarlies and Rockets on my stock motor and Rockets on my 4mm stroker. I don't have a dyno graph sitting right in front of me but I haven't ever heard of T-5's or any other high rev pipe compared to FMFs as nearly the same. The peak HP output might be with in a couple ponies but the rpms where they make them wont be all that close and it will make a difference depending on what type of riding you are doing. I know that the low end came on quite a bit earlier with the FMF's than the Rockets that is they "got on the pipe" at a much earlier rpm, although the Rockets had decent low end torque before they began to hit the pipe. The rockets did make quite a bit more top end power and rev way the hell higher though which allows you to shift into the next gear at a higher rpm, therfore higher up in the power band when you go into the next gear. What this does is allow you to pull a higher gear under the same load conditions. In the sand this allows you to pull higher gears and goway faster on the top end. In the dirt on say a gravel road you would probably spin the tires and go slower if you cant get traction. It can be easier to get a holeshot with a bottom end pipe because you are less likely to bog and the motor will pickup rpms better from a dig. Also the top end pipe has a little lag getting on the pipe if you are at a lower RPM. You have to clutch it to get on the pipe which will spinn the wheels where as a low end pipe might just get right on the pipe and hook up better because you don't have to spin the wheels to get on the pipe. If you want to use a low end pipe on a mostly stock motor with high gearing 1st through 3rd gear are going to kick ass but you probably wont pull 5th hard enough to make it very useful and it might not be able pull 6th at all. With a top end pipe and a low geared sprocket the gears are going to be too close together to utilise the top end in the lower gears, you'll be constantly shifting making it uneffective in lower gears but it will pull 5th and 6th like a mofo and you'll be deadly in the 40 to 65 mph range. This is why people usually go for low end pipes for riding at slower speeds, 1rst through 4th gear, trails, mx, ect. If you want to go balls to the wall in sand, and pull 5th/6th a top end pipe is the way to go. In sand, I couldn't beat a stock YFZ with my gnarlies other than pretty good holeshot. With just rockets it evened out pretty good. With my rockets and stroker, I have a tough time putting power down with a stock swinger for the holeshot (front end shoots for sky) but once I hit 3rd, I reel in even a piped/modded YFZ, and they get owned real effin fast.

The packing absorbs sound waves/pulses but also makes the air continue to flow through the silencer as if it is a solid pipe so it actualy gets the exhaust gasses out of the muffler faster with a good tight packing. If the exhaust pressure pulse goes into the open volume of the canister through the perforated core your exhaust flow will see more turbulence and slow down which is not good for top end performance. Take the silencer off all together might be better, but wear some earplugs or you'll probably end up going deaf.

I would say if you are going from a K&N in the box with no lid to clamp-ons it would only be a slight difference, possibly neglidgeable difference like others have said. If you were to go from a foam filter in the box w/lid off to either foam or K&N clamp-ons then it makes a fair amount of difference. I did this and installed 2 sizes larger main and after doing several WOT plug checks and a plug chop, it apears to leaner than before and a noticeable top end power increase. The increase could partially be from leaning out the mains a little but it has to have increased air flow as well to be leaner with 2 sizes larger mains.

A possible alternative to re-installing the stock air box might be using the toomy 2 into 1 air filter, $50 I think. Might even save a couple $ too. Are you running K&N pods or foam pods like UNI's. I'm running foam pods and I have blasted through some mud puddles without any ill effects. They'll only set you back about $15. If your keeping the motor fairly stock or even a mild or cleanup port I'd go with T-6's. If I was going to mx I'd probably get PTR mids or FMF's but I'm guessing you probably want to trade in the T-5's to get the discount from Toomy.

A good book that discusses relativity and other stuff like black holes, big bang theory ect. things that can only be described by mathematical theory is A Brief History of Time by Stephen Hawking. It's a pretty interesting book if your into that kind of stuff and have some science background. Not a hard book to read either, not too text bookish. I'm not on 1000rr.net, so no. If the earth speeds up then yes, your weight is very slightly less. Just like things weigh slightly less at the equator vs the poles. But mainly your wieght has to do with mass and gravitational force which isn't effected by the earths rotation.

My 34mm mikunis fit on the airbox in the stock location with a bilit manifold but it was virgin pussy tight. It probably wouod have helped a lot to trim 1/2" off the air box runners. I wen't to foam pod filters, made life sooo much easier, jetting goes way quicker, and a $15 bracket to relocate the bottle. Bend the clutch arm a little if needed and possibly file a little bit off of the hex nut on the botom of the carb if needed. I think the boss manifold is supposed to be angled to help big carbs clear the clutch arm so you'll probably be ok.