Ducman

Oh, I thought you said bud light!

Read this Jetting FAQ ( Click Here) ) to figure out what jet sizes you need and how to change them. You should just bite the bullet and learn how to do it yourself. Shops charge a rediculous amount to do it, I guarentee you will need to rejet for other mods you add in the future, and its only hard to do the first time or 2, after that you get pretty quick at it. Put the expansion chamber part of the pipe on first then the silencers. You can doooo it!

It does sound like you both should be pretty close. I would jet the 28mm Mikunis pretty close to what you would jet a stock carb. With a bigger carb the main jet size goes down. I bought a new set of Mikunis TM 34's and had to go 2 sizes smaller on the needle jet orafice, what they came with was way too rich, I don't know what the 28's come with they might be totally different. The main thing I can tell you is that rockets like a bigger main than most any other pipe out there. When I wen't from FMF's to rockets with no other changes on a stock port motor I went from 290's to 320's and it was pretty close, just a slight bit rich. I'd guess 340 or 350 for both of you mabe bigger if its colder than 50 degrees.

I have some bored stock carbs off an 04 on e-bay, see my post in the online auction section for the item # or just look at items under my name on e-bay user name (ebay 996ducman)

You probably need the #30 pilots to run as good as possible, but a lot of people run FMF fatties on #25 pilots so I would think you should be able to get it to run decent on them. Have you tried turning your air screws all the way in and backing them out 1/2 turns. Also if you richen the needle 1 or 2 positions (1 or 2 clip positions from the blunt end, middle clip is stock) it will help compensate in the 1/4 throttle range for a leaner pilot. The needle will probably help with the "pick up" and get it on the pipe quicker.

A Harly/Buel v-twin would overheat really fast if you used it for a atv. I'd use it for drag runs only. For any kind of a recreation bike, I'd look for a water cooled motor, you can always keep them cool with a bigger radiator and a fan. Although, my 996 gets damb hot on a 90 degree day when I get stopped in traffic for any time at all.

Sounds like the same place as in Michael Moore's second video, the follow up to the Flint Michigan movie.

I put a bunch of stuff I took off my 04' on e-bay, stuff in the topic descriptiopn, along with stock throttle cable W/ stock thumb throttle, stock intake manifold, stock carb boots w/clamps. You can search under my user name 996ducman or look at these item #'s manifolds - 4513277779 reeds - 4513282448 carb boots - 4513283209 bored carbs - 4513287036 thumb throttle w/cable - 4513287737 4mm stroker domes - 4513290779

With the setup I have now I run K&N pods for sand and uni foam pods for everything else. You can pick up a pair of uni pods for $20 shipped and they probably flow pretty darn close to K&N pods. You could run K&N's in moist or non-dusty conditions no problem, but if you got both pods, why bother, be safe and run the foam. The only reason I got the K&N's for the sand is that sand sticks to an oiled foam filter real bad and its even worse when its not shielded from flying sand by the stock air box.

Here is a good technical perspective on filtration foam vs paper v( click here )s pleated guase (K&N) by Uni Filters It may be a litle bit propaganda to sell uni foam filters but I think the info is pretty accurate. K&N will flow the best but I personally would only use them in the sand with a good fitting outerware and clean the outerware often.

Right on bro, I'd get her dyno'd for bragging rights if nothing else!

Getting the cable out is just like on stock round slides. Pull/compress the spring back towards the top cap, hang onto the spring and cap with one hand and tip the slide upside down with the other. Tap or shake the slide lightly if the clip doesn't come out. The "D" shaped clip is around the cable and should fall out and come sliding down the cable. Push the cabe back into the slide and it should unhook. The first time or two it is tough especially since the spring is stiffer and smaller dia. than the stock round slide, but once you get the hang of it, it isn't any harder than the stock carbs.

I went from Gnarlies to Rockets. I was very happy. On a stock motor the rockets make pretty good low end torque (I also had 20cc domes) and alot of midrange, they just don't get on the pipe from quite as low of a RPM. When the power comes on it is pretty smooth though, not too light switchy like people say the Toomy T-5 is, and the top end is fenominally beter than FMF. Gnarlies have way better top end than stock but they really sign offa lot earlier than a good top end pipe. They wind out so much farther that pulling a taller gear is way easier because you dont bog when shifting into the next gear when you've got a big load on the motor. It didn't seem like It missed the low end at all. The gnarles were a little better on the trails but the Rockets were far superior in the sand and just about anywhere else.

Welding your crank is like cheap insurance. Crank separation/twist can cause a very spendy top and bottom end rebuild. Some cranks go sooner than others with less abuse, even on a bone stock motor, so its hard to predict exactly how much it can take. I think most guys will run up to a 20cc dome on the stock crank with the plan of getting the crank trued and welded on the next rebuild a couple years down the line or when they get some porting done. I wouldn't go 19cc on stock crank for very long, 20cc is probably pushing it.

Depends on what other mods you have and a if you have porting, but on stock ports I'm gonna say with 19cc you could use 100 octane or mix 110 race 50% with premium pump gas. 18cc probably straight 110 17cc domes are probably smaller than you want to go unless you have major porting done and are low on compression due to a really high exhaust port. Too high of compression will start to hurt the top end performance.

PM me, I have a good used stock set off a 04' banshee used about 8 monthes I'll sell ya.

It adjusts just like a normal round slide. The needle is held in place with the little keeper that the cable fits into which is fastened by 2 little screws. I've got the same carbs (Mikuni TM34's). Also a tip on how to get the springs compressed to use the zip tie trick. Put the spring over the cone shaped end of a pair of larger needle nose pliars (closed) and compress, then put a zip tie on either side, not too tight, and ensure both sides are even. Push the spring onto the round part of the under side of the carb cap and the springs will stay in place and cause no grief while you are putting the cable and clip back into/on the slide. The spring is way more of a bitch than round slides without this method. I found that the needle jet orafice (dump tube) and needle that comes with the carbs when bought new (Q-2) were way too rich. I went to a (P-8) needle jet wihich is 2 sizes leaner and now it is perfect and kicks ass on the middle clip position or 4th from the blunt end. Let me know if you have any more questions about these carbs because I think I've just about got them figured out.

I doubt it. Probably richen up the needle 1 clip and maybe 1 size larger main and problem solved.

Try letting some air out of the tires. Run them at about 3 psi. My stock tires would spin like crasy at 4.5 to 5 psi and hook up good at 3 to 3.5 like night and day. Don't go bigger than 20". 2 strokes need some wheel spin to pick up quick revs and get on the pipe in lower gears for better acceleration. 25" wheels on a banshee would look real goofy, and I doubt they would clear the stock heal guard/ floorboard.

You mainly just don't want to hold it wide open and rev it all the way out shifting up through the gears. I'm sure your babying it just fine. I'd take it easy for one full tank and then start getting a little more agressive. It will run better and better the more you wind it out and get the cylinders and case "cleaned out" of excess fuel and oil build up. I'd change the plugs after about the second tank.

I started a thread about rifleing carbs a long time ago (click here for thread) I think your money is better spent just boring carbs or geting new ones. Theoretically rifeling just makes better atomization on the air fuel mixture but I would think it would actually hurt air flow. Creating a vortex in the airflow slows the flow along the axis of the vortex and creats velocity 90 deg to the axis (circular flow). I wouldn't do it.

With K&N I'd probably go 300 main or maybe even 310. I ran Gnarlies with a foam filter, lid off with 290's and it was just right at 60 to 80 degrees.

Dang, what kinda numbers she throw down on the dyno. I've got my own addiction to forced induction, SVT F150 and Eclipse GSX.

Unfortunately were not like Texas in CA. There is not a really death penalty in CA. They call it that but rarely does anybody actually get executed and it ends up costing taxpayers 10x more $ to put him there. The only good thing about the death penaly is that the prisoners get much more of a solitary confinment and wont be able to do any work programs or activities to help make the days go by faster. He can sit in his cell and develop his multiple personalities to keep himself entertained. P.S. if your wife is pregnant, don't look at her all evil and ask her if she wants to go fishing, they don't have a very good sense of humor about that!

Feast or fammon, that the way it always seems to work out.