Ducman

Like post your shizzel in the immages section, you might be the first banshee of the month!

When I was selling ducati pipes it would cost about $4 to list the pipes mostly due to the high starting price, then about $12 for the fee on the ending price (around $375) and then paypal would hose me for another $10 for the incomming payment. It cost me at least $25 for every sale, an my profit on the sale price was only $200 so e-bay was taking cutting into my profit by 10% to 15%. I would never have been able so sell them without e-bay though.

Just check your squish. You can use a piece of solder and a set of dial calapers to measure your squish clearance. Take a pice of solder and stick it in to the cylinder through the plug hole (Preferably when the piston it on the upstroke and close to the top so you dont chop off the end of the solder into one of your ports) and push the kick start over once. The solder will be squished between the piston and the dome. You want to have a minimum of .028" so your piston doesn't hit your dome with some carbon buildup and heat expansion, .035" is optimum. +4 is plenty on the timing on a stock port motor. Engine ice coolant will help quite a bit to avoid overheating issues.

I'm no expert, but you can probably get a new low end Remmington semi auto 12 ga for $400 that is still a nice gun. You might find some better quality guns that are even more affordable second hand as well. A lot of shot gun barrels come with a mono choke where the choke sleeve can be unscrewed from the end of the barrel. You want modified choke or unimproved cylender (widest pattern) for smaller game birds using smaller shot (bb size 7 and 8) and modified to full choke (tightest pattern) for larger game birds and larger BB size (4 to 6). If the gun doesn't come with a mono choke, a barrel with modified choke will work fine for everything. As far as large game like deer, I have never fired a slug out of my 12 guage but I have heard that they are not accurate over 100 yards and I'm pretty sure they use a different barrel. I'd get a rifle for deer. Be aware if your barrel is made to be able to shoot steel shot, do not shoot steel shot out of a barrel made for lead shot. As for the fiancee I would get her a 12 auto also. Some auto actions kick less than others and all kick a lot less than a pump with a solid action or a breakdown. The lighter the gun the more you will feel the kick also, like with a double barrel or single shot, but easier to carry around for a smaller person. 16 ga is kinda rare and expensive shells and 20 gague to me just seems to wimpy to kill anything. 410 should only be used on hampsters. I bought my Remington sportsman 12 ga (about $250 new 17 years ago) for phesant huting when I was 13 years old and still kill at least 1 pheasant with it every year.

sounds good to me

The only promotional payment plan they offered on the banshee was 3.9% for 12 mo or 0% for 6 mo and 13.9% after. On the YFZ 450 you could get 3.9% for 48 monthes. This was all last year.

Get CPI or Rockets

Untill his stock airfilter falls out!

There is a local builder in my area (looney tooners) that ports 4 stroke heads, also can sell cams and whatever else too. Test his stuff on his own dyno. He claims they have made an 80hp raptor (or at least I think thats what I remember he said). His site is new and he sells a lot more than what is shown. Labor is done at a super low rate as well. (Click Here)

32.5's are pretty big pilots your probably better on 3rd clip. I had FMF & 30's and i liked the 3rd clip better. Others seem to like the 4th clip better. Never hurts to try it though.

Just one bit of advice, if you can't hold your dremmel without wearing gloves because its getting too hot, your burning up the motor. If you let it run at high rpms for a minute or so under no load it will cool itself down pretty fast, but heats up fast under a heavy load too. I've burned up a couple.

YFZ450 rims will fit on a banshee and they will make the rear 2.5" wider and the front 1" narrower.

I'd probably wait untill your through the second tank or more and get it good and cleaned out and running normaly before trying to adust anything else. You won't be able to tell if changes are doing any good because how it runs will change somewhat as the motor comes in anyway. I think it will be fine the way you have it jetted now. If it has any hesitation at 1/2 throttle you may need to raise the needle a clip position but I doubt you will. If it won't idle good after it is warmed up you may need to adjust the air screws in a bit to richen up the idle if it is freezin ass cold out.

I think you can get creative and use some sort of 2&1/4" rubber or silicon hose to couple the carbs to the stock air box. Pods make it way easier to work on carbs though.

Just out of curiosity, to file in my database of misc. info, did the 30mm pwk's fit in the stock manifold and how tight was it, or did you buy aftermarket intakes?

Did you just break it in or are you still in the process of breaking it in? You are definitly not running rich with #200 mains and really cold air. They will run like shit untill you can take it out and run the piss out of it WOT, get it good and hot to clean out all the excess fuel and oil out of the case, and cylinders. If you've ran 2 tanks through it, your good to go WOT and run it hard. Plugs will still spark if they are wet, but I'd throw in new ones after the 1rst or second tank of fuel. Plugs are never as good as new after they've been fouled IMO. When the bike is fairly new it will run fairly cold blooded and wont run good untill it has come up to operating temp and ran up through the first couple of gears at WOT. It will get better about this as you get a few hours on the motor. My new stroker motor took at least 2 tanks of gas to come into a stable operating range. Go flog the bitch and shell start to purr for ya. I would change the jetting to as much as 230 mains to run in 10 deg weather after she starts running good. Changing oil ratio will have very little effect on jettng unless you are changing really drastic, like from Yama 2-R @ 24:1 (4% oil 96%fuel) all the way to to say amsol @ 100:1 (1% oil 99% fuel) and it will make it richer (3% total fuel increase = less than one size on the mains). Going from 200 main to 210 main would be 5% increase in fuel and thats not a real big deal.

ported and small domes... I'd get welded.

266 and 267 for my wife

The kit they sell with the new head and cylinder is better, but if you use the resleave kit they sell, have them install it and do the porting. Without a good port job when the sleeves are installed you will only get partial benefit of the big bore. My wifes old blaster got the sleeve kit installed locally and they just port matched the ports in the cylinder to the ports in the sleeve (which are biger) and it was an improvement but not nearly as good as it should have been. Also the head has to be machined to accomodate bigger bore, you can have it machined for whatever compression/fuel you want to run at that time which makes a big difference in low end torque. Another huge improvement to the kit is to add 2mm stroker crank and appropriate porting, no case trenching with 2mm stroker. If done right it will match stock 250r power output. Bigger carb and v-force will help too. I would have done a lot of things different if I was to do it over again.

32:1 on the yama 2-R. It is actually cheaper than many other oils. If it is 30 degrees out then you may need to jet 2 larger on the main. I would recommend changing the spark plugs after1 tank of fuel on break in after that they will last a long time.. They will start running much better around 1/2 way through the second tank when you start going WOT and get the motor heated up good. The rings will be fully seated, moving parts loosened up, and it will get the extra fuel/oil cleared out of the case/cylinders.

Here I sit broken harted the race was over before it started didn't know I'd look so retarded tried do drag against a shee though my 4stroke was bad as can be now I go home with banshee envey I'll look in the HQ for my kill story.

Stretch them sob's, stock should fit but they are tight. Any self respecting motorcycle shop where 2 strokes are sold should have a bunch in various sizes.

If you look at the YFZ's a-arm and suspension geometry it is very similar to the banshee it just has better shocks/springs and components. Also you could do a lot to make your motor hit the band instantly even in low rpms like low/mid pipes and 2 into 1 carb. It'll be as good as a YFZ.

What all mods do you got now?

Did you check that the carbs slides are in sincronization? One would have to be out quite a bit to run like that but its possible. Are both needles on the same clip position? Are both carbs getting adequate fuel flow from fuel lines? Air leaks in manifold or around reeds? Broken/worn out reeds? Throw in new plugs? I've had old plugs look good but run bad, usually miss in higher rpms though. Is there rust/crud in the spark plug boots, might cut outperiodically or with moisture. Check compression in both cylinders?