Ducman

43 in a 30 is pretty small potatoes and on the verge of getting prety petty IMO I've gotten the following tickets 85 in 55 - beat this one in court Just paid the fine on these 70 in 55 70 in 55 74 in 55 44 in 25 passing in a double yellow Only 2 of those tickets was in the same vehicle and I've never got a ticket in the fastest 2 vehicles I've ever owned. Only one of these tickets was in the last 7 years. Radar detectors rule! Online traffic school that you can cruise through in 1.5 hrs to get a pont taken off your DMV record and hide the point from the insurance companies is the way to go. I'm just glad I haven't got a ticket for 160 in a 70

How many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie pop?

No, you can just loosen the clamps on both sides of the carb and rotate the carb to get at the jets. Take the hex nut cap off the bottom of the bowel and you can access the main and pilot jet, 2 screw to take off the top cover to access the needle. You can change the pilot and main in 10 minutes and the needle in another 10 min. You don't need to take off any plastic. Just need to disconnect the fuel line.

I have heard that CPI's are a more efficient pipe as well, and that you dont need to jet up from FMF's or toomies, but I would probably go up 2 sizes to be safe. Better yet, put it on a dyno with a gas analyser so you know exactly what the A/F ratio is.

I have heard people running pods on an all stock shee at sea level using 230's.

The cork screw look they have is pretty unique and cool IMO. The quality is pretty top notch from what I've seen and heard. Banchetta is or was a big fan of them and ran them on a +4 stroker, but I haven't seen him on the HQ in a long time. Sredish went from T-5's to PC mids (if I remember correctly) and didn't like them because they sign off too early. They are supposed to work very well for trails and MX because they come on so early and have a fat mid range.

I would get 310, 320, 330, 340 main sizes, some dealers dont typically stock sizes much bigger than 320.

Little pits are probably from detonation. He is probably lean, running too much timing, not using enough octane fuel, or a combination of the 3 things I listed that can lead to detonation.

Below are 2 threads just like this one. I'll just add one more thing, long rods on a stock stroke change the piston speed at different durrations of the stroke, piston speed is slower at TDC = top dead center and TDC+180 deg, this increases dewll time, and is faster in the middle of the stroke so port timing is different than stock stroke with stock rods and porting specifically for long rods and stock stroke would be needed to optimise this engine configuration. (click here) Whats the point of a Long rod w/o added stroke (click here) whats the difference between stock and stroker crank

I have the motion pro, no problems with it. It looks pretty old school and the range of motion is a little too long IMO to easily just snap it WOT. I might try a 1/4 turn twist throttle one of these days and see if I like it better. I think motion pro makes them too.

If you ride it hard then I would check the valves in about 20 hours or so, if you aren't punishing it then it could go longer. I had my wifes done by the dealer at 20 hrs just because we got an extended warrenty that covers the motor for 2 years and if was an F'en rip off; $180 for labor. Definitely change the oil and filter right after break in yourself. A friend of mine just got a uses 05' YFZ and did the exhaust cam mod the first week of owning it with just instructions I printed for him that I got off YFZcentral, and he said it was pretty easy so I'd guess that checking the valve clearance would be pretty easy too. Get a manual, and you'll probably need some specialized feeler guages and then need to order the correct shims if they are out of spec.

Those rims probably are $150 each new which would be $600 for a set. I would jump on that deal in a heart beat. You could easily e-bay that set for $300 if you dont like them. I think they only make bead loccks in .190, so similar to Red label.

I have the TM designworks and it seams to have a tight clearance on the 13 tooth front. I have'nt tried a 15 tooth front with it, but it doesn't look like one would fit.

Benbb jetting FAQ Click on the above link. It has a good "how to" on banshee plug chops with a pic. You want a fairly dark 2mm band. Sometimes if you don't go WOT long enough the band will show up looking too light. But if you went WOT long enough and the band is lighter in color and less than 2mm then jet up like you are doing.

RNBRAD has a good list for you. Like he said, it will cost every bit of $2k to get set up like you want, including selling all of the stock parts you can to off set the cost. The good thing is that if you buy everything at once you may get a super package deal if you get it all from one vendor, pluss you get it all set up right the first time at bat. A very good way to go IMO if you got the loot to spend all at once.

Going to a 13 in front is a pretty large reduction in gearing. I can't immagine wanting to go lower than that in front. You may want to try that first, if thats too low then start adding a tooth in back. I prefered 14 tooth in front for most types of riding. 13 tooth let me pull taller gears climbing steap sand hills because the gears are closer together so I didn't have a problem bogging when shifting from 3rd to 4th. But for playing around in the dunes or trail riding stock gearing makes you need to shift a lot less.

BR8ES come out of the box gaped at .030 which is fine for just about any typical stock to heavily moded ported banshee. Some very highly modded she's, like a drag motor might gap a little smaller.

The only differece I noticed riding with the lid off is that you have to clean your filter much more often. Cutting a hole in the lid or cutting the rear 2" of the lid off is a good compromise. You should get an adapter plate and filter so you dont duck dirt past the front edge of the stock filter. It just seals against the box with foam in the front of the filter.

One of these days I'll do the bunny ear delete with the flames carved along the edges like someone else did quite a while back. The fenders are still usefull to me on trail rides to keep mud out of my face though. The wife still bitches real hard about letting me take out her YFZ450 to trail ride after I banged it up a little this spring trail riding even though I fixed her up as good as new. When she starts to forget, I'll just make the banshee sand only and trail her bike.

And it was on a 2 stroke!

The RZ cylinders have power valves and the cubs don't. The power valves make a lot of torque and power down low and when they open up with the higer RPMs they run well on top too. The cubs run somewhat like a dune port on stock cylinders but make more power than you can with stock cylinders with a dune port, but they dont have power valves. They make for a fairly top-endy motor so, no the RZ cylinders would make more usable low rpm torque and HP.

Looks like you are ready to LOOT!

Here are some pics of the HQ giveaway bling installed. Thanks Mod quad. Nice products!

There was a similar post a while back. Someone who I recognized as a regular knoweldgable HQer responded and said that they had been running w/o the rear chain guide for over a year w/ no issues. I have heard that w/o it you can have chain derailment problems. I think this would probably only be the case if your chain was way too loose out of adjustment + warn out + snaggle tooth worn out rear sprockets.

It would be cutting it real close. You would definitly want to make sure that your main jetting was a bit rich if you do go +4 on pump fuel. Also, you wouldn't want to run it WOT if the motor was running real hot as this can also contribute to detonation. If you do go +4 with 160 psi you'd be plenty safe if you added 1 gallon of 110 octane to every 4 gallons of 91 octane pump fuel, resulting in 95 octane mix.