Trick2stroke

The other alternative to changing the oil constantly and buying cheap oil would be to run a high quality synthetic like amsoil severe gear 75w90. I just drain it into a clean container through a filter to clean out any metal shavings or contaminants and reuse the oil. Since it is so durable it will practically never break down and loose its lubricating properties in a banshee trans.

Yep, that's him.

I don't think you would be able to tell much of a difference between LT and the standard aftermarket set up like this unless you are riding very hard and pushing the limits of this type of front end. Certainly not enough to justify the cost difference, you would be hard pressed to spend less than 1100 or so for a used LT front end.

The LT a arms accept longer shocks and increase travel. They're also a bit wider, something like +3+1 I believe. In my profile pic, the red one? I don't even remember, that's actually an old pic of the first banshee I had. If you're talking about the blue one the a arms are on they are protaper. I don't know the rise and I don't have a key on any of my bikes, however, it does have a billet clamp that has a key hole.

Single carb showed up yesterday. Everything looks great, love the elmo costume.

Selling this front end to upgrade to long travel. All parts are in great shape, some small cosmetic blemishes are their only fault. Heims are the newer version just purchased from fullflight 2 weeks ago. Shocks are set up for a 170-180 lbs MX. Always maintained and cleaned thoroughly. Asking 550 shipped obo.

Pics? If it's just missing two I may still be interested depending on condition. Sight unseen 40 shipped would be my offer.

I was just looking at their site for all my carb parts and jetting needs. This is good to hear.

They are a direct bolt on. Certainly worth it in my opinion. To compliment them I would get a master cylinder that pushes more fluid for a better feel. Either a 450 mc or a sport bike mc will work. Seems like around 17 mm mc would provide a solid feel but I think you'd have to go aftermarket for that. Most 450s use a 14mm. Maybe the ktm quads since they use twin 4 piston calipers.

Yes sir that is correct. Mine measures 17.5 center to center. Great looking bike, tons of bling!

Beautiful swing arm. If you want to take some measurements on it I can compare them to my -1 Roll swinger to get a length, that should help your sale.

Parts arrived sooner than expected, in great shape, and well packaged. Great communication also, do not hesitate to deal with Herbie.

I always recommend building the suspension first also. With just a set of pipes and other small cheap mods the banshee has plenty of power but severely lacks in the handling department. I may be selling a set of +2+1 LSR arms with brand new ball joints and triple rate works soon to move to a Long Travel set up. Shoot me a PM if you are interested.

From everything I have read regarding this the single carbs main advantages are easier throttle pull and easier tuning. I think if you are trying to squeeze every ounce of hp and tq out of it the dual carbs are the way to go. This seems to be the general consensus I've seen.

If you are serious about the build you will be best off calling at least one or two of the site sponsors who build and test these very set ups every day. Simply from some of the dyno charts I've seen posted the cheetah PV is just a bigger more powerful (and more expensive) Serval set up. If you have the cash to drop I would no questions asked go with some big ass pv cylinders. Just be mindful that with more power comes more mods required to utilize it (trans, clutch, crank etc..) Really and truly you will overpower your suspension very quickly also, so that expense I would take into account. I tend to build my bikes suspension first, IMO it's more fun to be able to exhaust all the power the bike has and still be able to ride it rather than being on a rocket that only goes straight on a smooth surface well.

My buddy has full flights and had a problem with one of the lower heims failing, we replaced them with the newer heims they offer, only time will tell how they hold up. A little tip would be to use a lube that doesn't attract dust, such as a chain wax or something similar.

It's common practice to soak them in what you will be running, however, if you soaked them in a different oil it's not going to fuck anything up. I soak mine in Amsoil Severe Gear since that is what I run. You will get a hundred different answers and 99% of them will work just fine.

Also check your ball joints while you're checking everything out. Bike looks pretty worn out, I bought an 89 a while back that was rode to shit and had bad bushings and ball joint on one side and it sat kind of like that and felt real "washy" when you rocked it, not solid at all. Just something else to look at that could potentially be your problem.

We all do stupid shit but this takes the cake. I hope you guys called no homo first.

Don't forget the weight and yaw of the shaft. Here is the proper formula. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6AZ6fYmEjeA

I've got 22" front 21" rear holeshot GNCC's on my bike with a -1 swinger. I haven't had the chance to put them to the test but I don't think they will disappoint, pretty damn light for how beefy they are too.

Thanks, Still available.

I know someone needs these. These are over 400 new, get em in new condition for half the price!

This makes absolutely no sense. They are the exact same cylinder with different port timings for difference purposes, how would it save you anything to buy a cub if you are wanting a trail or dune motor? The search works fine, you just have to try different search terms to find all the info you need.

Cool bike. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yamaha-yfz-banshee-421-trinity-supermoto-race-quad-/260785259887?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item3cb803456f#ht_812wt_952