raxen

Don't waste your money on spacers.

Where are the pics?

Jet blue is pretty cheap these days and nice. Try cheaptickets.com or priceline.

I don't know why you have choosen the 400ex as a comparasion. It leaves much to be desired in every department. The banshee is superior for climbs and duning. The 250R is mx superior via its superb handling. The banshee is adequate on trail riding because in its stock form it tends to make all of its power at a higher rpm which was something that I never rode at on most trails. This is easy to overcome and you would have the same problem with the 250R. Not to sway your thoughts on a banshee, it has the most aftermarket parts available. OEM parts are abundant, technical advice is free via this forum. In all honesty, I would highly recommend the yamaha banshee to you in my unbiased opinion. I have been riding one since 1990 with no regrets or major problems.

Nuclear engineer/Physicist Doing reseach for my Ph.d now while working.

You might want to post a link.

People in the lane beside you who think they need in the lane more than you do and act accordingly. I am road rage.

It never fails.

1. Clean petcock as stated above 2. Check fuel lines for obstructions 3. Make sure the petcock lever is turned to the open position, that one has go many people in the past.

You could try Helium, Argon, pretty much any inert gas will work better than that compressed gas that you speak off.

Prep Solv Ethyl Alc Acetone

Just CHROME everything, you can't go wrong.

Does your rear bottom out alot and hit with the top of your hugger?

Who stiffed you?

no problem.

Buy all new stainless bolts at a hardware store. Don't forget the anti-seize.

Pretty easy, uses a drill press and a tap set.

ruff_rida69; see above in the post

You will need reed spacers to drill and tap to install the fogger nozzles. Any cheap pair will work off of ebay.

Bottle about 60$ with an hour left Nozzles Decent nozzles about 50 for 2 Stainless brake line= about a dollar a foot Fuel and nitrous solenoids 85 bucks Wire at hardware store= 5 bucks at most Wire crimps= .80 Battery = 25-35 @ Walmart Mounts; get a sheet of aluminum from a fab shop and cut a 8-10" strip drill it and mount above the rear brake pedal. Total cost = 240.80; quality = same as NOS, etc.

I would recommend Cold Fusion N2O products. They are manufactured by the same people that make NOS kits and are priced much lower than their NOS brothers. Banshee nitrous kit needs Battery (ATV, lawnmower, etc.) 2 nozzles; not really relevant upon what series in lower HP applications Line; Braided or hard Spool of wire from a hardware store; Should have two colors to make a distinction. Cheater or equivilent solenoids; Don't really need anything larger for low HP application (up to 125 HP or so). A built shee can't consistently handle a shot larger than 35 HP without self destruction. So the cheater (smallest oriface size solenoid) is a great fit. Bottle (any small nos, closeout top gun bottles will work) I would hate to see someone actually pay 700 dollars for this stated kit. What you would get, should you order the kit piecewise as stated above from ebay, is a bill for 250-275 bucks. It is only 35 HP that you need don't rip yourself off by buying kits with Big Shot solenoids and second Gen nozzles. Don't risk crank/piston/rod damage by going over a 15-20 HP shot on a stocker. Always follow the supplied jetting charts religiously.

The brake thing was something I do for fun, nitrous is cheap in my area. I purge on the brakes because I ride mostly trails now that I moved and the nitrous doesn't do much other than cool the brakes. I can't hit it hard or I would be in a large oak right now. Braided works great or does stainless steel brake line. noid = solenoid in its shortened form

Damn NYUK, how much?

All the fittings on braided stainless hoses are of a different class AN, it is just another funny way of having to buy a new toolset as with metric. The bypass around using some many funny fittings; use stainless steel brake line on the system with a tubing bender. It dosen't like quite as nice but is far more durable to run from the solenoids to the nozzles. Then you will need the adapters to go from the stainless line to the nozzle. That is when you contact Earl's. They are a reputatble company with good products. The solenoid you speak of should do the trick but make sure the inlet pressure is correct for the application. Also, you might want to check the actual solenoid volume so you don't waste to much good stuff. I like to purge the my shee, busa, and car everytime I haven't actively engaged the nitrous for 2-3 days. Air has a tendancy to diffuse into the system no matter what you do and nitrous oxide outwards. Higher pressures always want to equilibriate to the lower pressure through diffusion and all of that junk and that is why if you leave the tank open for longer enough without use and come back days later it won't be a full tank any longer. Back to purging, Run the purge lines from the noid to a good place that won't obstruct your driving. It is a cold plume if it hits you directly, held longer enough it will give you a chill then frostbite if held longer. On the banshee the ideal location is new the front a-arms as to direct the fog towards the front brakes under hard use, it makes them more response by far. My other use for the purge system. I will look around, I may still have some diagrams that I made for a few kits I put together for some people.

Cleaning; Dissasemble the lines, noids, and nozzles. Clean the lines and nozzles with ethyl alc from a local convience store aka 190 Grain. Dissasemble the solenoids and check the plunger for wear and cracks (replace if so). Use compressed air and a cotton cloth to clean the internals of the solenoid. There are no substitutes for a purge valve but you can plumb a small valve off of a three way to make a small purge of the system. Its purpose is a vital one to make sure your lines are clear of a large air mass ahead of the pressurized nitrous. Things to invest in AN wrench kit Tubing bender Jetting kit Purge kit