raxen

Oilsmoke don't let him scare you, it is hard to set a wet nitrous kit up wrong. Your son will love it, one of the best presents that you could get him. You can PM me any questions about it, I'd be glad to help you.

COLD FUSION FAQ's Remeber when choosing a fuel pump that a typical industry standard for a wet nitrous system is to use a fuel pump designed to operate between 4.5 and 7 psi with a flow rate of 0.1 gallons per horsepower at 6 psi

A wet kit is the way to go, the price is so much better than many dry kits out there and you can install it yourself in less than a day. There is no rebuilding to be done after a few times. Let me know what all types of reading materials that you are trying locate and I may be able to accomadate you. The wet kit is my favored setup. I have used both with minimal problems. Cold Fusion N2O kit on Ebay If the above link is the kit on Ebay that you are referring to then it is a great kit made by Cold Fusion but you will need to purchase the correct fuel pump (I can provide a NOS part #) and you will need to visit a local hardware store for some wire, etc. I recommend you check the manufacturers website as a start, COLD FUSION. You will also need reed spacers, a drill, tap, and patience. In terms of a actuation switch, I like to wire up the system to 4-stroke yamie quad handlebar switch with a "START" button (I might still have an extra laying around if you want it). It looks like a stock piece for a shee and the start button often is un-noticed by the untrained eye.

It is OK, try it out.

It depends on what engine you wished to go with. You can pick up a ZX or gixxer engine for 800-1600 depending on area. Then plan to spend another 400-600 for the ecu, harness, and sensors. You could go the other route and convert to carbs for the same price. For carb conversions you would need to buy a DYNA series ignition with a DYNA crank trigger. Let me know when you take the plunge. I can come up with a list of a few good people to do business with for engines and parts. Let me recommend a 750 cc or below to you for a stock banshee frame. There is alot of cutting and welding involved with making 1300+ cc's fit into the shee frame safely. A GSXR 750 engine will fit very snug with a small amount of influence to the frame.

lian, not really sure about the cost on a good bike. I am fortunate enough to find a salvagable one on the internet via salvage parts request through some yards.

Running shees or frames to build crazy stuff during the winter? I have been collecting banshee frames since 1997. Every time I see one cheap enough somewhere, I pick it up. You never know when you are going to need one. Right now the count is 7. 5 a-arm styles, 2 j-unk style but still something to litter the landscape. I also collect banshee engines, bike engines, and frames. I have got another hayabusa in the works for this spring along with this hayabushee that is on the verge of fuckit and 10th street.

Grease zerks are great. I tend to use small rubber vacuum caps to cover them when not servicing the shee. The caps work great to keep any contaminant out.

Wow, just got back from dinner. It looks like I missed out on alot around here. Damn it, I love a good argument. Oh well, wet kits are the real way to juice it, anything less would be uncivilized.

What is a miget? Do you mean "Midget?"

Sorry about the K. It slipped that time. We have been around once Knightrider, don't need that one again.

Damn that was good. Nightrider you are the man.

You pretty much said it yourself there shorty.

Hey you started on IMPORTS's, remember?

They do run 9's with the a good suspension setup. Mine is nice and stock. You need to calm yourself and post some pics of this setup. We aren't trying to give you too much trouble but some of the things you have been saying aren't coherent. I will give it to you, it doesn't matter what nitrous setup you run on your banshee. They both meet or exceed the HP potential of the engine. The worst part of this post was the shit spewing from you about a dry system on a four stroke killing the wet system. Have you really ran a wet system or are these things that your local import car club told you? Once you go wet, you will never go back. Go ahead and post a link showing me a dry system that say has the horsepwer (dyno proven) potential of say an NOS Pro Fogger system for example.

No one in their right mind would switch to dry after running wet. family vista cruizer...no, I drag my busa. 10's...no juice

No don't think my "VAST" experience is only limited to bikes, I have put nitrous oxide on a number of quads, trucks, bikes, and cars. 2 and 4 strokes alike. I admit that I haven't been in the industry 120 years like you or that I have 24-7 lifetime tech support or give a free life insurance policies like you do but I know a little about nitrous. Nightrider, you hit it right on. Why go lean instanteously when you can take the path that your engine will thank you for. Imports aren't the only car out there if you have checked recently. The majority of drag events have nitrous only classes in which you will be hard pressed to find a dry system. Import nitrous - straight from the source of which setup gets the most from what juice setup I will admit dry is nice to use on imports because you don't have to add a fuel pump but if you are going to race it you will never get far with a dry system.

Brindley tell me about your systems and what you are asking for them? Just trying to keep the HQ members walets (and a few purses) safe.

I don't see more dry these days...on two strokes or four strokes. Especially in drag racing when I am out. I race mostly motorcycles at the local tracks these days and have seen a few older two stroke superbikes with nitrous. One a 500 cc Suzuki Gamma from back in the day and the other was a 700+ cc with no distinctive markings, he said it was a Suzuki also but didn't look like any I have seen. The Gamma had a wet kit and was a missle. I will see the owner in a few weeks and will ask him then for a copy of his dyno chart (w and w/o smoothing, Nitrous and No-Nitrous). Remember I am not questioning the quality or output of the dry system that you sell but the value. You have already addressed the quality and output issue without much influence from me. It is understood that there is no need to purge the system after running alcohol but what type of carb are you running to allow gas/alky with no adjustments? That is what I was trying to hint around to earlier but my brain wondered. Just keep in mind from our perspective, you've got a dry system with a modified manifold. I am sure that most of us think that your markup is a little steep. What is the real price? The price you would give HQ members because you like them and see this forum as a great source of revenue via seeing a larger quantity at a reduced price. I am sure you will become a valueable asset to the HQ community and more people will like you after you cut a small break for people. Speaking from past experience from my motorcycle experience. You would have to find a complete goon to let you install a dry system for 200. A more reasonable fee is 120 around this area for wet, dry is considerably less. That price is what I charged a guy a week before Christmas for an wet installation on a 4-stroke four cylinder motorcycle.

Aussie Quad Racer, I couldn't agree with you more.

Nice buy for someone.

You are trying to pump that kit up a little don't you think. Let us pretend that your kit without the "SPECIAL" manifold cost you a retail of 500 bucks ( In all reality you probably pay 320 or less). How can you justify 500 dollars on a manifold, given it can produce about the 30-35HP limit on a banshee engine from nitrous just as its wet brother. You need to adjust your price or your never going to sell that crap on a market with 300-500 dollar competition. We could start a poll if you want? It could be your focused consumer research group. You do have a good point. If the dry kit can put out as much power as the wet kit on a banshee why would someone pay you 1000 when they can pay 500? Are your fuels solenoids actually capable of running gasoline and alcohol or do you run it that way in disregard to the manufacturers suggested usage? How much is the manifold would someone want to purchase it alone? What is its construction material? How is the variable injection controlled? Post a pic of the kit. Solenoids used and oriface sizes? What style plumbing does that kit come with? Many people are getting cheap these days like NX Express and giving high pressure, highly flexible lines plastic like lines with their kits. Yours are stainless braided right? How much for the kit without installation? You need to be more informative. I am not trying to pick but 1000 for a nitrous kit is the highest price that I have heard of for a banshee.

Check ebay for Cold Fusion Systems for 389.95, the dude posts them about twice a week and they go pretty quick.

Cold Fusion kits are on ebay about twice a week for 389.95 plus shipping. Two cylinder wet setup with tank, lines. It is complete. Damn if a little quad kit costs 599 from you then people better not ask about kits for the daily drivers from you. You can buy a NOS kits directly from Jeg's or Summit cheaper than dealing with you. A grand to sell and install the a dry nitrous system on a banshee. Piss, I could find any elementary school student that can read and turn a wrench to install that in a matter of a day. People in this forum, take your lemonade stand down to DildosR'Us.

Get a wet kit.