350duner

With 9 paddles you'll want an extended swingarm. You should get Extremes too since Skat Trak changed their rubber compound and so nicely have the paddle cracking problems now on regular haulers. The amount of paddles depend on your HP and swingarm length. It's a trade off, the more traction you get the longer swingarm you need to keep the front end down (and more HP to keep from bogging). I have 22x11x8 12 paddle extremes on my shee and my +6 swingarm has gotta go, won't keep the front end down.

I haven't seen many tickets for helmet violations but sound is something they can and will get you for here. Usually Sandlake is pretty safe when it comes to sound but i've heard they started checking there too. A buddy of mine got a ticket there last summer ($175). I ran a few months ago with drag pipes, no silencers and didn't get hassled, but I did switch to silenced CPI's. I think it's 93db for federal parks and 96db for oregon state parks, but the only people that seem to know where the boundaries are is the guys handing out the tickets. None of our bikes will pass. Most are running CPI inframes, T5's, CPI outlaws (silenced), etc. Your best bet is to avoid the sound cops, they usually hang out in the parking lots and staging areas. If you are comming here i'd check out Florence, Winchester Bay, and if you have extra time to kill or like to drag race go to Sandlake (it's small and flat but it's closest to Portland). Keep in mind Florence seems to be the most heavily patroled when it comes to sound in my experiences.

I believe you need to add a booster jet. Alky has less energy than gasoline so you burn twice as much of it. Stock jets probably won't flow enough, gotta add an annular booster like the alky carbs have. I don't think it's something you can do youself unless you majored in astrophysics. I think Packard, FTZ, and others can convert them

Yeah anyone know what the biggest sleeves you can get are? I know my motor builder got one up around 600cc that looked totally stock from the outside. The guy even painted the cylinders black and used a stock head so it would look factory. They were big suckers, I think he said they were 72mm and it had a 10mm stroker crank.

If you wanna go extra cheap you can cut the springs. Mine is lowered 2" that way. You lose travel but if you aren't jumping who cares.

Don't bore to try to make more power. The extra few cc's won't do much and you take away that safety coushin for when you really do gouge or scrape the cylinders. LRD will bore for $40 a hole. If you want it overnight I think it's like an extra $15-$20. Make sure whatever shop you choose uses a boring bar/torque plates

How about just running a Digitron tach like the kart guys?

22" might be a little tall if your motor isn't ported. If you go with 22's I'd get 8 paddles. You could go with a 20" 10 paddle and that should work pretty good also.

Pull the cages out, look at the reeds from the side and see if they lay completely flat against the reed cage. If there is a little gap between the reed petal and the cage then it's time to replace them. Sometimes you can flip the reed over and it'll lay flat for a while if you want to get a little more use out of them. Carbon fiber and epoxy reeds are pretty good. I'm not sure how the stock reed cage is designed, but if it has bridges in the cage, you can knife edge those with a dremel to smooth out flow a little. Also make sure there is a smooth transition between the intake manifold and reed cage (no mis-matched lips). Just picture the air flowing smoothly through the whole assembly and correct anything that will cause turbulence.

Yes on a 2 stroke the returning sound wave (determined by the expansion chamber design) reverbarates back to the exhaust port. Due to the design of 2 strokes some of the unburnt intake charge escapes out the exhaust port with the exhaust on the exhaust/intake stroke of the piston. The idea is to tune it so the sound wave slams back into the exhaust port AFTER the exhaust escapes but just AS the fresh mixture starts to pour out. This forces the unburnt mixture back into the cylinder before the piston closes off the exhaust port where it can all be burned. That's why pipe design is to critical to performance. I don't think the amount of backpressure in the stinger really affects performance much although different stinger lengths do, controlling how fast the exhuast can escape. I have a CD-ROM that LRD was handing out at their shop advocating keeping sound levels down. It shows Arlan with a 250r on the dyno. He does a dyno run with a silencer that has most of the packing blown out, then does another run with a freshly packed silencer and it made power power over the whole curve. I'd say keep it packed for the simple fact that I'm sick of riding areas getting closed off. We have a 93db limit here and it really sucks. It's $175 each time they catch you (and it's hard to do 93db with anything besides stock pipes). Don't need anymore of that crap.

Good porting guys know what works and what doesn't. They can build the engine to suit your taste. A template is going to be a compromise for all-around power (don't get me wrong, I'm sure it's much better than stock). If you want to learn the theory behind porting you should start with the book "Two Stroke Performance Tuning" by A. Graham Bell. The book just plain rocks. It teaches you everything from what do do with all your ports to building pipes to suit your motor to carbs, ignition and gearing. Most of it is geared toward GP type bikes, but they talk a lot about the RZ350 (yay) so it's real similar, and the theory still works for ATV's. Keep in mind if you want a good set of engine porting tools you'll probably end up spending as much as you would for a shop to do it. But if you want to learn how and do multiple engines it's worth it.

Were they equal wattage bulbs and pushed with equal power? The cheap ones may have been brighter, I've seen some that put out decent light. I used a cheap pair of 35w driving lights on my R. They were great... for about 3 hours. That's how long it took until the fillament in the bulbs broke out. So I guess there is a downside to cheap lights. Now i'm running Ricky Stator aluminators and havent had any problems. I have 35W ones and will run 55W when I get the stator redone. Besides, with those if you break a bulb you are only out $8. You can get Trail Tech/ Lazerstar lights for a little over $100.

I haven't used a Scotts but I had a PEP on the R and it made a huge difference over high speed rough terrain. The Scott one is better, I assume it would make an even bigger difference.

It just feels like it runs out of spark. The motor keeps pulling hard but at a certain point feels like it's not lighting the fires. Is the stock CDI good for high rpm or should I switch to dyna or something else? I know when I went with a LRD CDI on my R it revved quicker due to the different ignition curve, and revved higher. The motor is still getting broken in so I'll have to play with it some more. I'd just like a little more overrev. Also anyone here have Nology ignition wires on their banshee? I put one on my R but I did the CR250 igntion at the same time so I had no way to tell if it made an improvement over the stock wire.

It's not the steels that hinson worries about, it's the kevlar friction plates. Kevlar is very tough and can be hard on the clutch basket. Stock friction plates are some kind of organic fiber.

What is there as far as ignition I can do for a banshee that will let it rev further? I don't want to go with a PVL since I like the option of running lights. The way my shee is ported it's still pulling hard when the stock ignition craps out so i want another 1000-2000rpm out of it. Also, I assume I should be running TZ bearings if I'm going to be buzzing it up above 10K rpm?

Water wetter lowered the coolant temps in my eclipse about 20 degrees (which really helped in the summer on those 90 degree days!). It lowered my Yukon about 10 degrees. I don't have a temp gauge on my bikes, but it seemed to help them also. From what i've heard water wetter is a lot like dawn dish soap (without the suds effect of course!)

Shift star mod. You can send it off or do it yourself on the grinder (harder to back-cut neutral that way though). Mine had the exact same problem, I had to let all the way off to get it to go into gear when drag racing. The shift star mod seems to do the trick.

Porting 2 strokes is very different than porting 4 strokes. I'd have him study up a lot before touching your motor, or you may wind up with something slower than stock. "2 stroke Performance Tuning" by A. Graham Bell is a great book to get started.

I heard the max size you can do with a sleeve is like 72mm? I don't know if i'd want to decrease the size of my transfer's that much.

Steel is used for the plates inbetween the fiber plates. Barnett's are kevlar which is supposed to be nice and grippy and last a long time. Hinson says using a barnett (or any other kevlar) clutch with their billet clutch basket will void the warranty because it will wear grooves into it. I've had a hinson basket and barnett clutch for at least 2 years now in my R and can't find any grooves.

Also make sure to keep the resivoir full. If you suck any air into the master cyl. or line from the resivoir getting low you get to curse a bunch and start all over.

And if your cylinders get over 300 degrees the last thing you need to worry about is your paint, lol! My banshee jugs are painted silver. They look pretty cool, everybody has polished cylinders out there, not too many that are painted. I'm not sure what etching primer is, but if you properly prep the surface and use a high temp paint it should work fine. I've heard of people PC'ing cyilnders too. I'm not sure exactly how much painting of PC'ing them affects cooling, but so far I haven't had problems. On an air-cooled motor I imagine it would be more of an issue. Give it a try, worst case scenario you'll have to get out the paint stripper and start over.

I've run my 350R with and without spacers and didn't really notice a difference. The theory is it gives a longer intake plenum to boost low end. As a side effect it also increases crankcase volume which can reduce speed through the transfer ports, but like I said, I didn't notice a difference on my bike. I'd say if you are doing it for clearance go for it, if you are looking for extra power, i'd suggest other avenues.

I've done one so far, we trued it to .001" and TIG welded it. Wasn't too hard. When I get the business going this will be one of the services offered.