350duner

Sounds like they are close enough that it might come down to the rider, but like the last post said, just go do it and find out!

There's not really any way to tell until you get it done. Just go up several sizes and start doing plug checks. Start rich and lean it out from there.

You shouldn't need anything else, just a new head gasket. Make sure you drain the coolant at least enough so there won't be coolant in the head when you pull it off or you'll get coolant in the cylinders. How long has it been since you rebuilt the top end? Now would be a good time if it's due. Your compression will be lower than stock if it needs a bore and rings, hurting performance.

I think my shee's ignition is wanting to be replaced. I grabbed one of the plug wires to make sure it was down all the way (seem to be missing on one cylinder at idle) and it shocked me. Do they leak that much or is it time for new wires? I am thinking about Nology wires, I run one on my 350R, but at $80 a pair they aren't cheap. Also are there any upgrades to the stock coil? I know nology makes a motorcycle coil also but who knows if it works with a banshee. I'm trying to stay on somewhat of a budget so if there are no real benefits of upgrading the coil/wires I may get a stock replacement. I'm not totally ruling out a dyna ignition. Are they the bee's knees or are they not worth the money? I'm not interested in PVL since I need to run lights.

DID is a good chain, i run the ATV X-ring on my bikes. If money isn't a concern you can get a Krause (Sidewinder) for about $150. They are brutally strong and look cool (titanium!)

What's the record for a 350 on gas? I want to see how fast I can make my stock-frame full weight shee before I start playing with alky and lightening.

Did you notice a difference between the 2's and 3's on your sled? I was told Louie Swan (Twister cranks) tested a set of 3's on a banshee on his dyno and they made more power over the whole curve compared to 2's. If they do make less power it would explain why Moto T is dragging their feet so bad on getting the 3's out for quads.

Had to do that with my R. A beer bottle works good to strech them out while they cool, plus it's a good excuse to have a cold one while you are boiling the water

P.S. there are a couple pics here: http://p087.ezboard.com/fsandlakedunersfrm...picID=306.topic

There are a few differences. They have non-adjustable reeds, lose that reed stop in the middle, and a few more things I can't remember right now. Two things I haven't been able to find out are: 1. Does it change the crossbar inside the reed cage to one that is more knife-edged instead of that hokey rounded one? None of the pics I've seen show a rear view of the cage. 2. When are the 3's comming out for the banshee (if they aren't already)? I got tired of waiting for them and just got 2's for my shee. Anybody have more info?

When I got pistons Wiseco made 2 styles for my banshee, the regular pro-lites and the "racers choice". The Pro-Lites are a one size fits all type of piston porting (windows in the sides of the piston, bottom of skirt notched to clear intake ports at TDC). The racers choice is designed to be cut for your specific porting job. I haven't tried Vitos pistons personally but i don't like the idea of altering the shape/size of the piston to change power characteristics or compression. That's what porting is for on a 2 stroke. I decided to get the Wisecos and have them matched to my engine by my builder. I also had them triple ceramic coated which is working really well so far. It's a high-temp coat on the crown, an anti-friction coat on the skirt, and... some other type of coating on the inside of the skirt/crown area, lol.

LRD reccommends using Dumonde Tech premix for break in. It's a non-synthetic. After that I went to my regular premix (Castor oil). My engine builder told me castor is fine for breaking in motors (it's not synthetic either), so I've been using that lately and it's worked fine, great compression and longevitiy. The cross hatching on your cylinder walls after boring and honing act like a file on the piston rings to seat/size them to the cylinder walls. If you use something that lubricates too well the sharp edges on the cross hatch will get worn off before the rings can seat and you get low compression and blowby.

Slides are in the right carbs aren't they? Not reversed? Are they opening all the way?

Porting. If you have the extra money do a stroker too, that will add a lot of bottom and mid. If you do a stroker you are going to want to get it ported anyway to keep port timing in check. Make sure you are running a decent amount of compression (how much you can safely run depends on what kind of gas you are running).

There are a million places to get a MX port job. LRD is the only one locally that I have first-hand knowledge of, they do good MX porting. Turnaround time is really dependant on how busy a shop is so you'll have to give them a call for a time estimate.

That's what I would guess happened. Unless your port timing is really off and you are igniting the fuel when it's still in the transfers Reeds are the one thing that really sucks on those cages, $120 a set OUCH!

Aren't those the same exact pics (the yellow frame bike) that people were selling the Shearer pipes with? Is he making the pipes for GRR?

I think around 160psi you should start adding race gas and 180+ run straight race gas. So if you want to run pump gas i'd aim for about 150psi.

Sounds kinda spendy to me too. Lightening the flywheel usually runs $40-$65 (don't do this mod if you trail ride a lot), advancing the timing up to 4 degrees is free, and milling the head varies from shop to shop but is usually pretty cheap. Bang for the buck you can't beat porting.

Sweet, I'm gonna try that. Since my bridgeport mill with the offset boring head is on the fritz I'll try the holesaw method. ...And if it leaks it'll be a great excuse to do that lockup clutch cover I've been drooling over!

If you are going to replace it there's no reason not to go with the new thrust bearing style setup. It's cheap and much more durable. My cousin went to one after welding his ball to his rod *snicker* about 5 times. When I go to my lockup i'm gonna switch to that style also. Cheap insurance.

Most tracks will let you if you have the required safety gear. If it's a NHRA sanctioned track check out the NHRA's rules for bikes and see what you need. I'm guessing you'll need a minimum of a helmet, riding jacket (leather or heavy duty synthetic), gloves, long pants and boots. As for the bike I'm not sure what it needs. Some places require things like chain guards and coolant catch cans. You should call the track and ask them. It would suck to take your bike down there and not pass tech.

I would think if your coolant wasn't circulating the radiator would stay cold (coolant just sitting in radiator). If you rode hard and it didn't boil over like crazy i'd have to say your water pump is working.

Some of my friends have had to actually go to smaller jets with CPI's (changing from T5's). Make sure everything clears, a couple weeks ago we had to weld up a CPI inframe that got a hole worn in it by making contact with the head of a t-rex over a period of time (stock cylinders would clear fine I imagine).

WHY???? Its a almost a must in drag racing, why should we stay away from them? You should stay away from them if you to other types of riding than just drag. You can't let off the gas with an override and let the motor slow the bike down, you have to pull in the clutch or you'll scatter the tranny. It makes the bike pretty much useless for trails, MX, etc.