350duner

Sounds like that'll be a fun bike! I was running 16/41 in my shee and went to 14/42 and it is much more fun to ride. We don't get over 70mph often so I didn't need the 16t front, I'd rather launch it in 2nd gear and not have to shift all the time. I rode choke cherry last summer, man that is one big hill! My 350R was running like garbage because I didn't take the time to jet it for that elevation and it was a 98 degree day, but I think I pulled 3rd up to the top (had to shift down once, started to lug 4th). I'd stick with 14/41 like you said and see how hard it pulls. I couldnt' get over how soft the sand there is, I was even having trouble hooking up good with the taller haulers!

If they are much longer than your stock shocks those are probably 19" long travel shocks. You can probably make them fit on stock a-arms but all it will do is force your front end in the air and give you some severe angle on your a-arms. Also if they are valved for +2 a-arms it will ride like a brick because you don't have the extra leverage on the shocks. I'd just save up for some +2 a-arms and use them then. If those are LT shocks get LT a-arms or you'll have the same problem mentioned above.

I'm not sure if CPI makes in-frame big bore pipes. Their standard inframes stick out pretty far as it is! Mike says if your bike is over 450cc the big bores will give you a few extra hp. They can custom make pipes to your motor which is a good way to go. My motor builder has Mike custom build pipes for his fastest bikes. You give them all the specs on the motor and they'll build pipes that will make it run like a raped ape. I have a custom CPI in-frame on my 350r and it helped a lot over the LRD big bore I was running.

If your compression is ok I'd check your jetting by doing a plug chop in 5th gear. It might not foul plugs now but leaning it up a little to get it perfect will make it run harder. You are probably about even or a little ahead of the predator power-wise, but they have a lot of bottom end which helps tremendously when traction is an issue. Sit way back on the seat, make sure your tire pressure is good and see how much you spin launching in 2nd. If they are running different tires you might wanna try switching tires with one of them and see if that makes a difference. Next get it ported, mill the head (or get a head with replaceable domes), advance the timing 4 degrees, get some CPI's and take back your bragging rights!

I think it depends on where you ride. I heard sintered metal for sand and carbon for dirt/mud. That may be backwards though so somebody correct me if i'm wrong.

I'd do porting first, or get carbs and porting at the same time. Big carbs won't make much difference on a non-ported motor.

On the instructions for my Barnett clutch it said soak for 10 minutes, longer won't make any difference.

They are made from 4130 chromoly tubing. They are lighter and stronger than stock frames. The stock one can work just fine though. Usually motocrossers will bend and crack frames over time if they are going big on jumps (or if you bottom out your shocks a lot). Just depends on your needs I guess.

If you already ordered a +12 then there's no need to cancel the order or anything, but it's probably a little bit overkill. Taller Haulers suck on 2 strokes with peaky powerbands (especially banshees) but they are practically a must on a street bike powered quad. The tall paddles will cause most 2 strokes to bog but the 4 cyl motors have so much torque that they work awesome. Hell, I can launch my gpz powered quad in 3rd gear and it doesn't bog (little hard on the clutch tho!). If you go with 14 paddles then regular hauler extremes might be ok, but with 12's i'd get tallers. Your bike sounds awesome! I'd like to see some pics and hear how it runs when it's done. There are pics of mine at: http://hometown.aol.com/oregon350r/

usual prices I see are $60-$100 with most being around $75. I'll do it for $45 as long as it is already trued (truing extra if it's more than .001 out)

And if you wanna kick it up a notch have your flywheel lightened while it's off. That makes a big difference too.

I wonder if they hold up ok. The ones I usually see used on ATV's are liquid filled to help out with the vibration.

It all depends how much you want to spend. Works are a great performance bargain. I had works (with rezzies) on my R and they were a huge improvement over stock. Then I went to Elka SSD (no preload shocks) and wow! even better. With no preload the bike sits lower to the ground for improved cornering but you still retain full suspension travel when the bike leaves the ground. If you do mostly play riding I'd get works. If you have lots of money and want to hit everything you encounter at full throttle get Axis (you can spend $1500 a pair on fully adjustable Axis shocks)!

On my gpz600 powered LT250 I run 22" 10 paddle taller haulers. They could make use of a little more hook but it's ok for now. A friend who built a gpz750 powered LT500 is using 25" 14 paddle taller haulers and it launches great. I'd go with 25" 14 paddles and definately get taller haulers. Street bike motors have so much bottom end and a smooth powerband that they love the tallers. Your swingarm sounds a little long so I don't think you need to worry about too much traction since it's back there so far. The weight of the engine keeps the front end down, a real long swingarm isn't really necessary. I'm only running a +5 on mine and my buddy has a +9 on his, and we probably couldn't wheelie if we tried.

It's a good idea for any banshee owner to weld the crank the first time you split the cases. It's cheap insurance. We had one on a customer's motor that separated a lot on a stock engine (like 1/4"). We trued it to within .001" since the crank got pulled out 8 thousandths and welded it up but if they separate too far you are looking at big repair bills.

That sucks. Hopefully whatever it was went out your exhaust and not down into the cases!

What is your compression right now?

If you are running that hot and your stock impeller is functioning (are you sure coolant is circulating?) then your problem lies elsewhere. The coolant circulating in the motor doesn't cool the combustion process, it just keeps the top end from overheating. If the pipe is red then you are running way lean. When was the last time you did a plug chop? How does the PD impeller rob horsepower? I've never heard of this. It circulates coolant slower so it doesn't seem like it should cost any more hp than stock. I'm planning on getting one because I don't want the stock one to break on me during a weekend of riding. If I get one soon I'll put the temp gun on the bike before and after and see if it makes the difference they claim.

Did you adjust the floats correctly and check the needle valve (not the needle in the slide, the one that shuts off fuel flow when the floats reach the set height)? I had a carb on my R that poured gas. The floats were adjusted wrong and the needle seat and valve were messed up. You might try calling carbparts.com to find out correct float height, it's probably different from stock banshee carb specs in the manual.

Are the transfers welded up or still stock? I've heard of breakage problems when you try to take them out far without welding them.

As long as you don't change the size or shape of the ports you don't have anything to worry about. Go for it. Just don't polish the intake. Also a small gain can be had by knife edging the intake bridge and any other "brick walls" the intake faces. That's considered a mild port.

American racers and other TT type tires have stiff sidewalls so you don't want to run them as a drag tire, they won't have the wrinkle wall effect and are a harder compound than a drag slick. I'd like to get a set of Hoosier Jr Dragster tires to play with 1/8 mile drags.

You know the saying: "If you have to ask, you can't afford it" There are pics on Trinity's website.

I currently have a +6 swingarm on my shee with 12 paddle extremes (22"). I can't launch in 2nd without the front end wanting to swap ends with the back end so people always holeshot me. On treeshots I end up comming up in 1st because the front end gets too high. The bike is drag ported so the powerband comes on very hard. Does anyone have any ideas on whether a +8 would be long enough or should I just bite the bullet and get a +10 (and practically give up trail riding)? Also, who has good prices on round housing swingarms? I am looking into Tucker ProArm, but it looks like their prices went up. I'd like to keep it at or under $600 chromed with carrier. I can fab up my own but i've never made a swingarm before.

My R's frame is PC'ed candy blue (translucent blue over silver). It looks really trick. I think I am going to PC my shee the same color. I have seen the "chrome" powdercoat and I wasn't impressed, looked too dull for my tastes. Here's the R