Wallrat

I think there's definately a point that power=cost to reliability. If you look at the high end drag bikes they've got them so tweaked out for HP that they break down somewhat often. For 95% of the riders out there, slapping a stroker in the motor and getting a good port job will be more than enough power.

the LT rear setup at socal fab can use any +2 swingarm. There's just doesn't have the extra bolt holes. Plus their round tube swinger isn't like you think, it similar to the dual tube design that JDperformance uses. The guy at socal said they run it on their baja bikes with no problem...is heavier than stock tho...

36 pwk quad vent

Ah no worries then. Although you might wanna hold out for a 35 if your planning on getting it ported. Not gonna make a huge difference but if you get ported and run a 33 you might lose a hair off the top.

I'm the same way. I jump on my wife's yfz and I'm like, "Gaaah I hate this thumb shit!" Been riding bikes all my life though.

I talked with SoCal fab today about some of their different options. Here's what I found: (pictures borrowed from an old thread by RNBrad) Front LT setup (14" of travel) - $3250 with elkas, slightly less for TCS Rear no link LT setup (14" of travel) - $1100 for shock (custom made 18" elka) and install (upper shock mount needs to be moved. No mods needed to be done to swingarm but it's setup for a +2). Dual round tube +2 swingarm for LT setup - $850 w/ anodized carrier +2, +1 arms or +3+1 arms - $600 powdercoated Also I asked about the King shocks. He said to be honest they haven't been able to 100% dial them in on the banshee. Also he said they were heavy (about 3 lbs more than elkas per shock). Here's their site: www.socalfab.com And here's RNBrad's original thread (more pics there): SoCalFab LT front and rear suspension

38 is pretty big. It would work but the bottom end is gonna be choppy. Most people that go single carb use a 33mm for stock porting or a 35mm if they have/are getting some porting done.

Nice man...here's my $700 135 beast: (course its only crazy expensive cuz its used for kiteboarding)

I know somebody is but I've forgotten who it was. Need to ask a few questions.

Ask 10 opinions on suspension and you'll get 10 different answers. No matter what, you get what you pay for. There's a point when it becomes somewhat silly to spend that much money (like a recreational rider that doesn't even jump getting Lobo II cuz its the best). So pick an amount your comfortable spending and then look at what you can afford. As far as brands go, I personally feel that the best shocks are Axis, TCS, and Elkas in that order. Works are probably twice as good as stock, but then Axis is probably 20x better than Works. I've ridden Works and they're nicer than stock, but if I could afford a better shock, I wouldn't hesitate. I'll most likely be running TCS when I upgrade my suspension here in a couple months. Nice combination of price/performance.

It's possible. But that's a long, boring ride.

You might try posting in the swap and trade forum first. Throttles get swapped back and forth alot in there.

Buy the wife the yfz. That's how I convinced mine into letting me get both.

It's probably your shift forks. The drum is pretty much foolproof so not too likely that it got damaged. The forks on the other hand can and will bend as well as just get worn out. Since you'll have to split the cases to replace em, are you gonna go stroker?

My wife left her credit card sitting on the counter at the pet store a few months back. Realized it a few days later...after some punk had rung up about $800 worth of golf crap, clothes and gas. Took a little phone work but we didn't have to pay any of it.

No you can't just randomly pick out a VIN # and stamp it on there. Check with your local DMV or even the police station would probably know. I believe you're allowed to stamp your old frame's VIN but there's probably some paperwork to do as well as showing proof of purchase on the aftermarket frame.

WTF is up with that?? So who we got in NJ?

Right under the left footpeg

VIVA LA BANSHEE!

You should go with a longrod crank (less stress on the engine) so you'll need some 795 series pistons ($80). Need the crank(bout $425). Head cut ($100) or spacer plate (I think $40 or so). Porting ($200 - $600). Better clutch ($80). Carbs and intake ($200 used up to $500 new). Gaskets, yamabond and oil seal kits ($60). Reeds if you don't have em ($220). That's about it.

Man Justin that's just crazy! I've been leaning towards Quicksand for my swingarm/a arm purchase in a couple months but after seeing how long it takes I dunno anymore. Nice stuff but if it takes over 2 months to get...

Take a golfball and roll it across the sand. Now take a basketball and do the same thing. The larger the diameter, the lower the resistance. This is especially true in sand. I personally run the sand stars all around...great tires!

I like the look of the ITP's better but douglas makes a wider rim.

I usually keep mine around 4psi so that I can jump without worrying about bending anything.

If your looking for a project bike then I'd build it piece by peice. Its alot harder to split the cases when you know that it means your not gonna get to ride whereas you split the cases cuz you only have 50% of the bike together. If your looking to ride now then I'd suggest going with a used one. Really the only difference between a 1991 and a 2005 is a brake light.