Wallrat

I believe the RS flywheel is close to or slightly heavier than the stocker. The stronger magnets are so that your lights don't dim quite as much in the lower rpms. Boonman was saying that he now knows how to lighten the RS flywheels so you could potentially do both. If you're on a budget and mainly looking for performance then just get the stocker lightened. I think boon takes off 9oz.

You'd certainly have the fastest plow on the farm!

We had a big discussion about this on another thread. Yes, there are significant disadvantages to LT on a shee: Here's the LINK Just saw that you asked about LT shocks on +2 a arms. In that case...yes, there are a couple minor disadvantages . Try it though and take some pictures for the rest of us.

Um...not to sound to obvious but you did buy new pistons right? Assuming you did, did you send the pistons out with the cyls so that they would bore them to the size of the pistons? How were the reeds? Maybe during the teardown you got some gunk in there...although I doubt it since its both sides.

This thing is seriously starting to tick me off. Here's where I'm at now: CEL needles - 4th clip from top 48 pilots 155 mains I started on 172 mains and (I think) 55 pilots and have been working my way down. My midrange is really crappy - the bike hesitates and stutters right before the powerband kicks in. Most recent change was to move the needles down from the middle and it made it worse...need to try the other way next time I get a day off from work. Plugs are still looking pretty black but take awhile to get that way. So you guys think I'm in the ballpark or should I try different needles? Sea Level, 60 degrees old school fmf's, dual k&n's, v force 2's, pwk air stryker carbs, mixing 32:1

Advance the timing 4 degrees mill the stock head or get an aftermarket head v force 2/3 reeds

Maybe he just hill climbs and isn't worried about weight. But yeah I see your point Justin...+4 is about the biggest I would ever go for general riding.

You can help isolate where a sound is coming from by placing a screwdriver handle against your ear and touching the tip to various locations on the engine. The screwdriver will amplify the sounds coming from the part that it is touching.

I'm not saying that an aftermarket crank is impervious to damage. But if you blow a stock crank, even rebuilding it won't solve all your problems since you can't replace the pins. If you blow an aftermarket, you can rebuild it from the ground up so that it's as good as new. Also, most of the aftermarket cranks I've seen have tighter clearances than the stockers.

How old is the gas?

$375 shipped or?

I'd ditch the stock crank if I were you. Its really a cheap design that is bound to fail - welded or not. If you want to build a reliable machine, get a wiseco crank and don't skimp.

I'm getting the impression that ol'bio there hasn't even met this new girl yet. Is that the case? If so then bio...if you wanna date over the internet that's fine in my book, but man you gotta meet the person in real life before you start commiting shit to them. Sounds to me like you guys talked on the phone for a few hours and decided that you'd be bf/gf. Something tells me this girl ain't an 11.

You guys really want a yamaha symbol on your body? I mean hey I love my shee too but do you really wanna be a walking billboard? Why stop there, get a nike swoosh, that little nabisco checker, Ooo ooo...and that little symbol that microsoft windows uses!

You want something meaningful and yet your asking us??? That's like asking for relationship advice from biohazard.

You could always try ebay for a carb, then draw up a design and take it to a fab shop...I'd be surprised if you couldn't beat trinity's price.

Its 4:43am...ok now hand it over jizzo.

Removing your cylinders is only 8 bolts more than removing the head. I concur with the suspension upgrade first.

Your fins are getting bent from hitting flying debris (roost, rocks, bullets, etc). Straighten out the fins CAREFULLY with flat blade screwdriver or a toothpick. Then invest in a cover for your radiator...it'll last longer. Oh and yes it can still be used, even if you don't straighten the fins you've still got probably 96% efficiency.

Naw you don't need to worry about that...The woodruff key will automatically put the flywheel right where it needs to be.

Personally for sand tires I like to get the blue labels. Alot of people say they bend too easily but here's my reasoning: They're lighter weight which is very beneficial in sand. When it comes to bending, I'd rather bend a $30 wheel than a $200+ axle. I think it pays to have some kind of weak link in your system - preferably something cheap and easy to replace. That said I've had about 6' of air and have yet to bend a rim. My tire guy said that once you get up around 8' you'd need to swich to black labels. Another benefit of douglass wheels is that they make a wider rim (I think its 8") Give's you a little added stability for free.

I've got a 29 foot trimaran that I got off my grandfather. Sailboats count right? I got the thing after it had spent several years sitting out in the desert so its been alot of work to get it seaworthy. Right now I'm trying to finish it up before summer. Top speed should be around 15-17 knots - which for a sailboat is SMOKIN'!

Yes you'll need to have it inspected at the DMV to get a VIN #. Then you can register it. I'd suggest going a tad longer, maybe a 12 footer not including the v-nose. Reason being is that if you ever have a need to carry 2 large quads (banshee, yfz, 250r) they're about 6 foot tire to tire. Turning quads sideways is a PITA...much easier if you can just roll em in. I've got a 7x14 enclosed myself.

The yfz's are fast...they just don't feel fast. If you race somebody you'll notice that its quick, but a seat of the pants test makes you feel like your putting around after coming off a shee.

Go to www.trendmicro.com There's a free online virus scanner on there. I've found that it works pretty good at detecting the virus but isn't all that great at cleaning them out. If that's the case, there's also a virus encyclopedia on that same website. Simply search for the virus name that it found and it will tell you what the virus does and how to get rid of it in a step by step process. Just make sure you follow the directions EXACTLY or you'll be hating life.