Wallrat

I just emailed him for you guys.

I can't believe nobody has mentioned suspension. The baddest engine is gonna be useless if you can't use that power. Personally I like TCS but Elka and Axis are right up there as well. Here's how I'd do it: New chain/sprockets Foam filter Remove TORS PRM swingarm skidplate Handle bars & twist throttle Fatties tires Nerf Bars -2 swingarm and TCS all around Lighting (if you do much night riding) v force reeds woods port noss head or similar Single Carb (if you keep it dry) That'd be a pretty good start.

Reminds me of a South Park episode:

You should have a little black pull knob on the left hand side carburator. Lifting it up will help start the engine. It has 2 positions, usually for general starting just use the first position. If its really cold outside then pull it all the way out and then start it and push it in to the first position after 10-15 seconds. Just make sure you push it all the way down b4 u start riding.

He'd prolly be okay if he didnt lead and they only cruised around. If your buddies decide to open it up tho...have fun going over the bars!

I agree with motor mods first. You've still got tons of HP potential on that engine. Once you've done every engine mod you can then you can look into weight reduction. V-force reeds tend to be popular. Shaving your head or getting a noss head will pull a few more HP. Depending on the porting you may be able to keep your stock carbs - ask your builder. Personally I'd look at porting and reeds first. Next to the pipes this will be the biggest bang for the buck. Porting usually runs $200-$600 and a set of v-force are $200. With just those 2 things your should be able to pull him, and your bike doesn't have to look like its falling apart!

I'd pull up a wiring diagram and triple check all the connections. Its pretty easy to cross up a wire and also if it was apart for awhile you may have gotten a little corrosion on the terminals. Usually unplugging and plugging back in will clear that up and make sure you get a good contact. As far as the flywheel goes...not sure exactly what you mean. Are you sure you got all the pieces together right? It definately shouldn't be rubbing anything.

IMO the stock crank isn't worth rebuilding. Its not a very good design and therefore isn't 100% rebuildable. Generally when your crank lets go you get some grooving and scarring and it'll never be "good as new". You can buy slightly used ones off ebay but you're taking a gamble. My advice is to go with an aftermarket wiseco or similar. You can buy em already welded and ready to go and they're 100% rebuildable if you ever have this happen again. While your at it, you might even check your wallet and see if you can afford to move up to a stroker or at least a long rod version. When you compare the numbers its actually not that much more expensive.

Start the bike and let it warm up. Shut it down and pull the plugs. Screw in the tester till its snug and kick it over with the throttle wide open until it stops going up on the gauge. Repeat on other cyl.

My intakes don't have any form of crossover. If you already bought a boost bottle don't worry about it. Just sell it to some other poor sucker on ebay and take the $5-$10 loss.

Geez RDZ, you're talking about going from a simple flywheel exchange to tearing into the bottom end. I mean you could do it. Only takes a day to tear it apart and a day to put it back together, and really the only cost besides the welding is gaskets and seals...but damn. Talk about a can of worms. Personally I'd wait until your at least doing a top end to get the crank welded since you're 1/3 of the way there once you get the cyls off.

Well there really aren't any rules when it comes to this sort of thing. Usually I build it up towards a roller before throwing the engine in. Of course you'll want to leave plastics, seat, and fuel tank off till last.

I spent a total of 15 minutes on mine. Then I took it to the upolstry shop and handed over $10. I'd have paid $30 for the PITA it saved me. They had it back in my hands in about 10 minutes. F*ckers!

I ended up getting this one: http://www.wakeside.com/page/W/PROD/obrien..._143_wakeboards Also got some O'brien Ion bindings to go with it. Sorta overspent but wtf, money ain't no good when I'm dead.

I just bought a boat, nothing fancy but it'll get the job done. Now I need to get a wakeboard but I dunno much about em. Here's the thing tho, I've been kiteboarding for about 4 years now and have done a little wakeboarding as well. I'd classify myself as a strong intermediate kiter and a barely intermediate wakeboarder. I can get some pretty good pop but I'm not throwing mobes just yet. For my weight I know I'm gonna need something in the 140-ish range. Given all that, what can you guys recommend? I don't even know the different brands except liquid force, which makes mediocre (at best) kiting gear. I'm not trying to get the best board out there, and I'd like to spend somewhere around $300 with bindings.

Um...doesn't affect other people? Apparently where you guys are from they don't close the freeway (or at least several lanes) everytime there's a fatality. That shit pisses me off to no end! Oh and I love that argument about being ejected saved your ass. Seatbelts aren't a damn holy grail. Its still possible to die/get injured even when you have one on. For every one person that gets ejected and walks away there's probably 2000 that got killed. I dunno if you guys gamble but...d'ems shit odds!

Sounds like your shocks are blown. Time to invest in some aftermarkets!

slightly stoopid - closer to the sun waiting for the new system of a down CD

People I actually know have had the following problems with having their oil changed by either the dealerships and/or Jiffy Lube type places; Forgot to put oil back in filter fell off 10 miles down the road = new engine (friend had to pay this one) Stripped threads on bolt and they fixed it...several hours later Stripped bolt and put it back in with RTV Forgot to put the oil cap back on. Never found it. Owner paid for synthetic but got cheapo SAE crap I figure I'd rather spend 30 minutes of my time and do that shit right.

Your case has 2 vents to help with any pressure build up. Maybe they're clogged? Check and make sure they both have hoses attached to them. If the hose falls off those things can spit oil like crazy. I don't think the occassional spit of oil out the vents is a major deal, but I'd still keep an eye on it.

Want another conspiracy theory? All of pimps' posts were riddled with typos/misspellings. His "wife's" were not. Then along comes the 'bigger man' post and whoa look! Homeboy got some hooked on phoenics n' shit. Either that or the mrs. said, "honey, go shoot up while I clean up this mess you made." A Lynn ~ I think somebody needs to explain something to you: Every person, when all things are considered (looks, job, intelligence, wit, car, grooming habits, vices, etc.) can be assigned a numerical value between 1 and 10. For the most part you're stuck pretty close to the number that nature dealt ya. For example if your ugly and stupid, you could make shitloads of money, have 20 exotic cars and you might be able to swing a 6 or 7 tops. Best guess from the little bit I've seen I'm thinking you're probably in the 6-7 range. Best guess again, I'm thinking Pimp is somewhere around a 3-4. Here's where the problem comes in. When dating, you can go 1 above or below your number. A 7 can get lucky and end up with an 8 and all is well. Likewise that same 7 could settle a little bit and go for a 6 and still be happy. Anytime you go more than one number away from your own, it won't work. Oh sure, you can do it for a little while, but in the end one person is gonna realize, "wtf am i doing with this dipshit?" Its unfortunate that you went so far as to have kids. But if you're dead set on making things work out with Pimp then more power to ya. Best advice I can give ya is figure out a way to lower your number a bit. Luckily having a kid will help with this. Oh and one last thing before this post burns out. Guys, unfortunately SikGirl is a little bit goofy about showing herself on the net. Everytime she's posted a pic, she pulled em back down as soon as somebody didn't kiss her ass. Fortunately I saved em! So here ya go everyone: Hahahahahahahahahahaha

Does anybody following this thread want to see it die? Personally I think its hilarious watching this kid try to talk shit. Sure its mean, its like giving a retard a few chainsaws and telling him to learn how to juggle...but damn let us have our fun before pimp hits puberty and discovers girls. And Sik, brooke was saying that name calling is a pathetic attempt at redemption when a person isn't intelligent enough to come up with something better to say. Your being called a bitch came from your passive aggressive behavior and cheesy attempts to gain acceptance, not a lack of better things to say. So go back to your hole while I hand pimp this other chainsaw...

On a 4 stroke you can get away with running more paddles due to the low end torque. Banshees like to spin their wheels so on a stock bore/stroke you shouldn't use 10 paddles. Some 9's work okay on a fairly modded shee, depending on the aggressiveness of the paddle. You would think that more traction = more power to the ground but shee's tend to bog down if you put too much on their plate. I dunno bout your shee's, but mine doesn't like to lug. I rarely drag and when I do I don't really care who wins. For that reason I use sand stars since I feel they're one of the best duning tires out there. If I were to switch to a straight paddle I'd definately go with some 20x10x10 8 paddle haulers, or maybe some 9's since I'm running a +4 stroker now. For your bike, stick with the 20x10x10 8 paddle haulers.

Every stator made for the banshee has 2 circuits, an ignition and a lighting. Aftermarket stators won't do anything performance-wise if that's what you're thinking, they have the same ignition output as a stock stator. The stock stator puts out 70w on the lighting circuit, enough to run 2 35w lamps (the tailight uses very little juice). Something like the ricky stator 200w stator puts out 200w, enough to run 2 100w lights, 4 50w lights, etc. Just look at the wattage of the lights that you want to run and base it on that. Oh and slapping in some higher wattage lights on a stock stator will actually make them dimmer and yellower. So make sure you stay at or below your stator output.

I think trying to correct this chump's spelling is a lost cause. pinyada = Pinata is = in perfer = prefer dousch = douche ~and that's just from his last post