Wallrat

I've got the digital rebel...awesome cam! Only problem is you really gotta have a cheap little point and shoot as well. Call me anal but I just don't feel comfortable riding around on my shee with a $1000 camera in my backpack. Much better to just stuff my $150 Olympus into my pocket.

I'll offer up another vote for canon. I've got 3 canon's and an olympus, all work great. I've found that there's a big difference between models of all cameras when it comes to shutter delay (time between hitting the button and the picture actually being taken). Sony's seem to be the worst with this, but I haven't played with every model. Best thing to do is to go to best buy and play with the display models. The point and shoot canon's offer different settings to help with certain types of photography - like action settings for fast shutter speeds. With those small cameras, anything over about 4 megapixel isn't really necessary unless you plan on doing some major photoshoping. 4 megapixels is enough to print out photo quality 8x10's. Also, with such a small lens apature, having more megapixels actually degrades the image quality because the individual pixels on the sensor are too small to absorb the small amount of light present. Next thing you wanna look at is OPTICAL zoom. Ignore digital zoom! This is just a cheezy way to make a camera look like it has better stats. The image quality is greatly reduced anytime you get into the digital zoom. First thing I do with my new cameras is turn off the digital zoom. Last, I'd recommend getting a camera that uses regular AA batteries and then buying some rechargeable NIMH AA's and a charger. Most smaller cameras use li-ion batteries like a cell phone and they're only good for a certain number of charges. By using the AA's, replacing worn out batteries is cheap (like $8 for a pair) and if you're ever in a pinch you can use some regular alkalines.

Aim for a similar setup as mine, but swap out the pipes for a top end pipe like CPI, Rockets, Shearers, etc. Also consider a different port job for more top end (mine is more of an all-around power kinda port).

Yeah its the metal stop located where the steering stem meets the lower part of the frame. The welds there are really wimpy and it gets pushed away from the stem allowing it to turn a hair further. Doesn't take much before the wheels get yanked to the side and lock up. Hammer it back into place and add gussets if you have the ability.

I've got a modded shee and a mildly modded 450 and it really depends on the terrain I'm going to ride on. If I'm riding really tight technical stuff I prefer the yfz. Being able to lug it around at slower speeds is definately an advantage. Anytime I'm on terrain that would allow for 3rd gear or higher on the yfz, I'm wishing I had the shee. Oh and I get about twice the gas mileage w/ the yfz on sand. Dunno about tight trails since its been so long since I rode on em.

Justin angled his red taillights down so as not to blind the guy behind him. Even still, from 80 feet back when he drops over a dune your eyes get blasted by piercing red lasers. Shit is kinda brutal actually. Justin you and that damn Devil Smurf bike of your's suck. Oh yeah and for all the people talking about radio shack/autozone light strips...that's like comparing a Miata to a 350Z. But have fun with that Miata!

Its easy. Just seal off 90% of your intakes with some bondo or something. Then rejet cuz your gonna be super rich. Once you get the jetting dialed in you'll have about the same mileage as a 250ex... ...and the same power. Seriously man, if you were having a problem with always having to fill up I'd tell ya to get a different tank. But using too much gas? I think the only good cure for that is a penisplasty.

There is no "best" setup. It all comes down to what you wanna do and what you feel like spending. That question is about as broad as asking what's the best state to live in. My personal setup is a wiseco +4 longrod crank, 795 series pistons, 35 pwk air stryker carbs, trinity dual intake w/out equalizing tube, dual k&n's, custom creations dune port, stock head cut to accept added stroke, v force 2's, lightenned flywheel, +4 timing advance, fmf fatties (prolly changing to t5's), running on 50% race gas. My bike is set up for more all-around power cuz that's how I ride. Alot of sand guys like myself prefer more top end but that setup just annoys me. There's a thousand different setups and all have their positives and negatives.

Uh...drain the premix out of the tranny and put in some non-synthetic 10w-30. I use Castrol GTX. The reason you don't get oil on the mating surfaces of the cases is because the yamabond won't stick there and you have a potential for a leak. Get a Clymers. I can't believe you went this far without one. I wonder how many things you broke in the process. Use punctuation CORRECTLY. You'll get a lot more responses when your posts aren't so difficult to read.

I just bought this Trail Tech dual HID helmet light setup at the SSSS: Also got the wiring so that it hooks up to the bike's stator instead of having to run exclusively off a battery pack. Only drawback is that the shee is an AC system so you have to get the reg/rect + battery and convert the shee to DC in order to run HID's. But it was cake on the YFZ...

I'll be there, camped 300 yards out in the sand from Sweet Maries. White Haulmark enclosed trailer and a smoke Nissan Titan.

I'd _____ in Brooke's ______. Seriously tho...we could just boycott SheeMX since he's the only person on this site that has requested filters. I hearby refuse to reply to any of his whopping 48 posts.

Halloween or a slim chance for the weekend before. I'll be out in the dunes off Gecko Rd/78.

yes and yes, and there should be some sort of clamp thingy holding the 2 together if I remember right.

$275 shipped. I'll see if I can send a pic tomorrow when I get home.

I like my Trailtech Endurance alot. My install was less than easy, but still wasn't too bad. I just had to bend the shit out of the bracket they give ya. I've checked it with my GPS and its just as accurate. For the price, you might wanna just get a GPS. I've got a Garmin etrex legend w/ handle bar mount that reads speed just like the computer, but also tells me where to go, is backlit, and does 50 other functions. I think its going for about $160 or so now.

Haha...I've actually still got a big gun race pipe from my wife's old 03 (sold the quad, just never got around to selling the pipe). Its the complete system - good shape except the rear bracket broke so I welded it back on. No worries, its staying put. It is really loud tho...dunno if that matters to ur buddy.

Its just normal old mild steel. Welder would have figured that out with a magnet tho...

Naw...I'm sure adding a DC battery to an AC system would be fine. What's the worst that could happen?

Sorry bigred, but the shee is AC. So by "float the ground" do you mean take it off completely by un-soldering where the windings ground to the plate and leaving it bare? I talked with Jen at TT customer service at the show. She's actually somewhat unclear on how to wire the shee herself. Everybody she's had to help has never got back to her after she gave advice to say exactly how they did it. I told her I'd take pics and write up a quick tutorial once I figured it all out so she could be in the know.

I just picked up some Trailtech HID's from the SSSS along with the wiring stuff needed to convert the shee to DC. According to the trailtech website, I've gotta float the ground, install the new reg/rect, and add the battery. Here's the wire colors on the reg/rect: 2 yellows (for AC from stator) Black (says load, would that be frame ground or negative on the battery?) blue (says battery - I believe this is for regulating the charge of the battery) red (says battery/load) - guess this goes to the positive terminal on the battery) I'm picking up a 200w stator from ricky stator which has (according to the picture), one plug with multiple wires, one yellow, and one black wire. Since I'm floating the ground my guess is I gotta melt the solder and remove the wire from the windings that grounds to the plate, splice on a length of wire and run that up and out with the rest of the wires. Then tie the yellow and new wire into the 2 yellows on the reg/rect, and connect the plug normally. Where's that black wire from the stator go to anyway? Man this would be easier if I had a stator here to look at. After that I believe the blue goes to the negative on the battery, the red to the battery positive, and then the black on the reg/rect I'm not sure about. Any help? Also am I supposed to run a ground wire from the battery to the frame?

You can purchase Heim Joints HERE I dunno what size Gary uses so just do a search for part # 60645K13 and it should bring up a list of a bunch of em.

That's called a castle nut. There's most likely a hardware store in your area with a bolt shop. They'll carry metric size nuts and bolts. Do a little searching thru your phonebook, then call around.

Otis...we are go for a distraction. Lincster, have that shit running.