Wallrat

That's a melon w/ shades on...or blind melon (already mentioned). Dude this pic is hurting my eyes - can't we get a bigger version?

Haha...why's that? Just list em BIN.

Tried ebay? You might be running into a problem w/ them being too heavy-duty. Most folks needing an extended arm are duners, and duners don't like weight. HD -2's I can see selling better than HD +4's.

Sure as long as you jet accordingly.

Well stock the bore and stroke is 64x54 to give 347cc's. So you'd be 70.55x58 or 409.1cc's. Stock heads are 22cc so I dunno if that factors in.

Yeah I know Stan's the man. I pm'd him awhile back about this same question and he gave me the specs on the carrier's he uses. I'm just trying to find out if I can avoid lathe time by switching carriers. I'm thinking I might start making arms myself to pay for a few banshee mods. Should have a jig together for shortening stock swingers by this weekend. I'm considering setting it up for roundhouses as well...Gotta keep the overhead down so that rules out buying kits.

Pretty sweet man! But RED LABELS for sand tires??? You should put a lead axle on too!

I've seen em...kinda scared me. If I didn't jump, or ride whoops, or actually even ride on anything other than pavement then MAYBE I'd consider it. I dunno man, that's not a good place to have a failure.

YFZ shocks are a step up from stock, but they aint the shit. I've got a yfz and the ride is better, but its still shitty. Suspension is the best mod you can do for any bike, but it'll cost ya. My $.02 is to do it right the first time and get some TCS.

Actually I'd rather jump the bus...I just don't want to be in it when it lands!

I run a single 35 on my 4mm (non-cub) stroker. Works great for me! The 38 should give it a little more on top.

I know there's some OG's that have this, but I dunno if any of them are still around. I'm just trying to figure out what size tube/pipe you guys are using and what bearing carriers they'll fit. Ideally I'd like to find a carrier that will fit a common tube ID so I don't have to dick around with the lathe.

IMS and Clarke offer tanks in a color they call "natural". Its kinda a brownish white color. Yeah you can see the fuel level thru it but it looks like shit. And yeah Cole, tanks are porous. Not for a shee, but here's what they look like new (its all downhill from here):

Double check your spark. Sometimes when you let the bike sit for awhile the connections can corrode enough to cause electrical problems. If you don't have spark try unplugging everything and plugging it back in 1 at a time. If you do have spark, try cleaning the carbs.

It depends on what you're trying to do w/ the spacer. If your just trying to get the carbs to clear the clutch lever then you want [cyl, reed, spacer, boot]. If you want to increase the crankase volume for the added top end benefit, then you go [cyl, spacer, reed, boot].

You can also wrap one of those big ass zip ties around the both of em to pull them towards each other.

I think it took Justintoxicated about 1.5 years to finally get it spot on. But he is happy w/ it now.

I looked it up on a chart to get the 180-ish. Running that much compression on a stock crank is just asking for it to seperate.

You should be at 180-ish psi. Is your crank trued and welded??? I dunno man, that's a buttload of compression! Beyond my knowledge anyway of what's safe to run on 50/50.

Whats your elevation or compression?

Ouch dude.

Far as I can tell. When I first installed mine several years ago I double checked it w/ a heat gun aimed at the head. I think it was around 4 or 5 degrees difference. The bouncing needle isn't really an issue, you just look at the middle point of where its bouncing. And really, the only important temps are 90-ish for warm up, and 200 for shutting her down. Inbetween there I don't need to have the EXACT temp. I picked up a digital gauge a couple months ago, but haven't bothered to swap it out yet.

I've got a set of 20" Sandstars on 10" blue labels, 2 seasons on them so they're in good shape. Looking to trade for some 20" 8 paddle extremes or 9 paddle haulers also on 10's also in good condition. If they're on blue labels great, if they're on something heavier then I'd rather keep my blues and just swap tires. PM me and we can work out the details.

Depends entirely on your compression and whether you want to run race gas or not. If your compression is up in the 150's, then u prolly don't want to advance much if any. Maybe 2 degrees tops? If your compression is lower than 150 then most folks run 4 degrees. If you don't mine running 50/50 race gas, then you can go w/ more advance, but you might want to install a temp gauge b4hand.

Jim builds a fast engine, but lost alot of popularity on the board after people experienced how difficult it is to get the jetting right on them.