camatv

call gigot for the injection.. lectron is a "jet less carb" airplanes use "jetl;ess bowl less carbs also. they have been around for a very long time. i personally hate jetted carbs after working with and on lectrons..

ok so who is interested in a top 5 or top 10 drag racer run what ya brung for this year??

id do even a tran mod if that would help. if anything gets going someone just let me know.

probably used high temp silicone.. its way old school back in the day stuff.. guess if its not in trenched cases not a 10 mill anyways. take some pics of it. they may have just been trying to fight head gasket/ sealing issues with it. that was a problem and possibly was done before the idear of replaceable domes and cut domes was thought up. hey that old left over stuff from the late 80's early 90's HAS to be floating around somewhere..

there is a big reason the tz used a center drive....... 421 converted 400cc t-rex. 421 converted 400 cheetah. in the works? as in its all here just need time to go put them together.? just for my own personal enjoyment. not chasing any "records" with them or even care what anyone thinks. just want to personally build both these motors myself and play with each for my own personal enjoyment. everything i listed is doable. not a pipe dream to "jerk off to"

make plans! july 20th race~!

sell them on ebay. buy any other pipe go ride

old trinity setup. you might want to recheck that its a 4 mill and not a 10 mill? no pics of anything yea redo it and run it

conversions are just that conversions.. they have a (random motor here) in a ( random chassis here) i think the days of highly modified banshee motors are really over. you just dont see a sx550 cylinder on a stock case motor or even cranker's anymore. those to me were the REAL skill engines. aftermarket bolt together motors stil take a lot to get assembled and run right but nothing like some of those early motor atrocities. i personally feel a stock cylinder stock case 4 cyl would be a feat. an alluminum sleeve 520 all stock motor would be neato also. what i meant was you cannot use a honda accord crank in a banshee and you cannot use a 4 cyl all custom built crank in a banshee either. so why even call them banshee based? only real thing those 25,000 dollla monsters share with a banshee is that its a 2 stroke, and for some reason the basic weak ass transmission design.

i made my own hardened case studs. the motor i had these issues with was my own and i pushed it pretty damn hard.. after the case studs stopped ripping out it actually pushed the head up over the brass washers! that was really cool... switched to grade 8 flanged nuts and sealed the threads and that stopped.. i have seen a lot of cases in my opininion done badly and the base gasket has almost NO sealing surface to hold against. they then rip the cheap ass thin paper gaskets out and blamo! air leak-big lean out- bye bye motor i wish ARP would do more with metric threaded stuff.. i'm suprised at the small amount they have now. there is a bunch of m10 stuff but not much in the way of m8. instead of helicoils maybe timesert's? i think thats what you call them..

that 4 cyl up there is about as close to a banshee as a honda accord is.. i have several dream motors. these would be actually doable AND would stay together unlike those high dollar 2000cc hot rods that make 6 passes and break. 4 cyl 10 mill stroke cheetah. 1070cc 4 cyl 842 stock cylinder. but even those combos' would require some serious transmission upgrades that i personally dont think exist. i'm talking a motor that can be hot lapped.. i have a few "in the works" motors already. most are in the 421cc range and use differnt cylinders and powervalves. one that i think is doable and might actually work well would be a 78-80mm bore 54 stroke motor. all the other "dream 2 stroke's" are not banshee based. but i believe would be brutal and much more reliable that what the aftermarket has available thats " banshee based" i mean really. a 6-8 cyl powervalved EFI direct injection twin turbo on the front of a real transmission? 800-1200hp would be doable. now thats dreamin.

is it on alky? is the weather outside COLD are you pussy footin it? buy a dyna and below 1500rpm pull all the timing out of it. should make it easier.. also look for a longer kicker lever. kick from full up and standing up and kick HARD

true the crank, check for deto, use metal formed gaskets, OR custom cut copper, convert to a hardened stud case and hardened nut/ washer combo. to me the t-rex dosent have a weak ass head design (neither does the cheetah) so the next weak link is the case studs. had this happen on a 535. head wouldnt lift so it would lift the cylinder off the case. would break the inner studs and rip the threads right out of the nuts. not sure if this is your same problem. motor was making a lot of internal pressure..

NICE!

i have ran similar motors style's for dunner? its a cheap combo

check the webbsite. might be some available who know's

there are enough full builds sitting around for sale raffle one of those off... in all reality if a bike was built and needed a modded transmission i would be up for doing one for a much lower price to help out!

those look nice! BUT will the needle section unscrew completely? if yes i have seen that style ( and the needle conversion stock style lectron in the pic) just fall the F out!. it looks to me that they are designed to replace the OEM casting PJ section... not sure why but ? other than that looks like nearly the same as whats in there now but made from brass? or aluminum anodized gold? packard deff made the lectron a viable alky carb and then pushed them into what i would consider the only choice for an alky drag bike. i can take ANY lectron and install it, tune it, and have it ready to ride in 30 minutes or less.... i can also convert my alky's to gas in about the same time. and back again if your not running pe-1 needles your probably going to have a problem supplying enough fuel on the top .. those needles are key in my opinion to making them work well

i only buy jj+a carriers.. no problems.

depends on porting.. id lean this way BUT i have never had or messed with r-2's.. sniper cpi shear. all will be very close in LOW TO MID performance.

bike looks better with the plastics on it. why you wanting to sell it already?

tz the drive side. you will be fine.. i have a tz in my 535 with straight cut/ hinson spring loaded basket. the bearing is not stressed in or out it has been running hard as hell for over 5 years now. and i dont pussy foot it it gets beat on. run tz/ roller style on ALL the larger builds and hell even most 350's anymore. usually run max or the 8 ball'z on the flywheel side.. most of those are running the helical stock style drive gears. i have seen bearings on both sides fail but after removing the crank most of the cranks were WAY out of factory specs for true. and most were seperating. that has to put side load on the bearing pretty hard.. i think i have a few pics of one of them hell it split the cage right down the middle. that was a cool one! so for a sumary. my personal experience is use a roler on the drive side, use a larger pto bearing. and make sure your center bearings are nice and tight and the crank's runouot is very spot on.

adjustable pj's on gas is nice. if someone says they are a pain in the ass they didnt know what they were doing. phhhh

crank might be toast might be from horrible deto from bad tune.. might have crap alky buildup in the powerjet's OR ran bowls dry.. OR air leak OR too much timing etc etc..

whats smallest 4 bolt banshee sproket? if you can find a 4 bolt 87-90? stock rear hub