PassionRE

Shane, I would be interested in testing a set. Im as un-biased as they come. Name recognition means nothing to me. Im simply after the best products available.....Jim

Ck out planetsand.com those guys over their with their triple Cheetahs and such will drop 2k in a trans and not think twice about if they think they need it. Some custom ratio 4 speeds might work well on those large displacement type engines...Jim

Ive been a big Castrol fan for years but recently got hold of some scientific data on friction modifiers and breakedown data and Castrol is near the bottom in performance. Whats worse is that their ATF is even worse. For standard type petrolium 10-30 motor oil ,Mobile 10-30 is far superior, second place believe it or not, is NAPA 10-30. If you add a tube of BG MGC(multi-gear concentrate) to your Mobile or NAPA, you will have by far the very best protection available for your trans gears (without jacking your clutch plates up) bar none. And its light weight and the shifting ease is alot smoother.....Jim

I couldn't agree more, the Cubs are strictly top-end monsters and definately not suitable for a RZ streetbike/racebike. Pipes that are currently available for RZ's will make this even worse. Highly modified RZ cylinders will make more power than you would EVER need in a streetbike application while still maintaining decent bottom end power, and a broad power curve....Jim p.s. you better plan on extended swing arm, steering stabilizer and a damn good suspension on that RZ. My stock framed RD with mild porting, 34 Keihins, Electronic ignition, and a set of Moto-Carerra chambers is absolutely un-steerable on the gas

And HP, and lots of it ,and youll smoke those 450's bigtime

Ive seen this mod on stock Banshee cylinders. Also, CT does this on their aftermarket Blaster cylinders along with the triple ex. ports. If everything else is in order, it should RIP...Jim

Your cylinders are bored to .25mm(.010") over. Finished honed spec for this piston size is 2.530" for a finished piston/ bore clearance of .003". You need to have the bores measured in several locations up and down, side to side to check the trueness of your bore. You are currently at a clearance spec of .004"(based on Wiseco replacement pistons) which is ok as long as the bore is true and has no low spots(especially above the exhaust ports). Also make sure all the port chamfers are sufficient, particularly on the top edge and top corners of the exhaust ports, but all ports should be chamfered properly and good cross-hatch pattern is in place for proper ring seating on break-in. Refrain from synthetic lubricants for the first 2 gallons of fuel on break-in after re-ringing....Jim

Build a quad with a 21st century frame and suspension, larger transfer updraft area, RPM governed and adjustable triple exhaust valves, stroked, counter-balanced pork-chop billett crankshaft, 10 plate clutch basket with hydraulic actuation,programable ignition, dual SBN Mikuni carbs, call it a Banshee Type R ,and contact Yamaha so they can see where they should have went with the design about 10 years ago. Other than that, build a toothpick suspension bridge 2 feet wide that will support 30 pounds in the middle...thats much more of a challenge anyway....Jim

You can easily get into the 60-65 hp range for around $750.00 if you have decent pipes already, port and polish, bore job, piston sets, Noss head. Not really a full tilt drag motor, but you were asking about high 50's so it might interest you..Jim

Stock bore and stroke configurations of the Banshee are 64x54. Bore to stroke ratios are well under square configuration to begin with so even adding 4mm to the stroke it still us under square configuration in reference to stroke. Stroking to this level isnt what keeps rpm's down, its the motors capability of flowing enough fuel/air without compensating for it in porting that does this. 4mm motors will rev to the moon when set up for it. As for big bore transfer inadequacy without mods to ports, definately. Transfer operational efficiency range on a stock Banshee's transfer ports on a bone stock engine, are 5600-10700 rpm. Bore the engine to just 68mm and those numbers change to 5000-9600rpm. Power moved down with little increase if any in peak hp. Raise the transfers just 1mm and these specs change to 5700-10700rpm without ex. mods. Exhaust area needs enlarged as well or blowdown psi will drop from 143 to 129...yes even big bores need adjusting on ports, just like strokers....Jim

You should contact Dan to see if the existing porting specs will accept a stroker crank first...if not, your only option left is the big bore....Jim

Matt builds pipes to his specs based on engine builders port configurations. The complexity of this process is overwhelming. After Bkabina fitted Matts specs to my specs of Bkabina's motor he is smoking RDZ triple port alky motors on regular race gas...Matt definately is the man....Jim

WORD Matt is THE GO-TO guy on pipes. Biggest names in the biz use him constantly.....Jim

Shearer inframe chrome w/ silencers or out of frame chrome w/ just stingers same price $469.00 shipped lower 48...big bore add $ 20.00 .....Jim

Remove your cluch cover and inspect the return spring and spring post. Spring posts come loose all the time. Also inspect the pawls that contact the shift drum for damage....Jim

Oliver , porting along with compression and proper pipes for your port style is by far the biggest gain in performance you can obtain using the factory cylinders. The gains are tremendous....Jim

Loco, have you ever tried to contact this Jackass?

I have a slick used PD head on hand and will make you a killer deal on a new NOSS if your prefer......Jim

Jeenyus, give me a call 918-232-3950....Ill tell you how to port for bottom end power...BHQ is a HELP forum afterall!! More than glad to help you out.....Jim

If your running standard PWK35's run the EGL needles(PWK35's are notoriously lean in the mid with near stock needles on ported motors), and a 160-165 main with a 45-50 pilot. You can probably lean the main down even more than that in the HOT summer time......Jim

Yamaha part # 93390-00012 is a TZ style bearing that fits perfect on the drive side of a Banshee crank.....Jim

Ive seen 6 sets personally go bad in the last year. As for cracked or chipped reeds, you can expect that, just like Jeff said "just part of the game". Screws backing out is just part of a bad design, along with inner reed housing distortion and warping.....same issue. They should have been made of aluminum to begin with and threaded machine screws... IMO...plastic??...get real. They wont admit it, but Ill be willing to bet thats why the VF3 became to be in the first place. Too bad as well, they perform great...just keep a close eye on them.....Jim

VF2's work damn well but they do not hold up on High Revvers. Not only do the screws back out, the reeds shatter but the cases deform as well. Some suppliers still have them in stock...steer clear and go with 3's.....Jim

Cool Head?...if so, replace the o-rings and add cap nuts and sealing washers instead of the stock nuts....Jim

The sync at idle is set with the idle adjusters themselves....after that you can sync the lift rate of the slides with the cables PWK series have seperate adjusters knurled screw type on the sides of the carbs, PJ's are combined with the chokes...make sure the cables have plenty of slack in them before attempting idle sync...Jim