9603banshee

sea level = 27.5 pilot and 330 mains 4000 ft. = 25 pilot and 300 mains

here's a nice roller & he's willing to ship......very NICE! It would be a brilliant start anyways!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

I saw a couple nice ones on ebay! :baseball_sleep:

take your carbs off and clean them thoroughly...also clean your air filter thoroughly.....this should clear your problem,....if it don't how much is the temperature outside different than it was on your last dune trip....possibly if you were a little on the rich side then and now it's 30 degrees warmer outside, you are WAY Fat NOW!!.....

Plugs won't matter as far as starting, but ok, if your compression is that low & diff, you got top end probs,,,,,even if it's a cheap gauge, it will be somewhat accurate to a point.....You did hold throttle wide open when kicking liking a mad man right?? If not, the reading will NOT be accurate at all....also, make sure you're filters are NOT full of oil and breathing well enough.....just a couple pointers.....It's something simple you're overlooking, wish you were closer to me.....I would get it figured out for ya.....

regardless of what jetting you have, rich or lean, it should start anyway.......Put the pickup as close as you can get it without touching.....It will not hurt anything.....the backfiring could be too large gap between the reeds and the cages or NOT opening at all.....check these things and also it sounds like your unsure about the flywheel....if the flywheel is just slightly damaged (even where the naked eye can't see the damage) it will NOT work effectivly....I suggest getting a new one....

find a friend w/ a bike in the same year range as yours and swap cdi's.....(find one with the same plugs)......I would bet this is what it is.....I'd be willing to put a Benny on it!....LOL!

I'd go to an aftermarket needle (they're all the same pretty much), put it on the 3rd clip from the top and run some 27.5 or 30 pilot jets and some 320 or 330 mains, and put your air screw around 1 1/2 turns out from all the way in......that should put you about right and still safe (not lean in other words).....

You might want to mention the rest of your mods to get some adequate help bro.....?? stock carbs, timing, reeds, filters, how excessivly ported are your cylinders, cool head dome size, etc..??

yup, he's exactly right.....513 series Wiseco Pistons and they're 0.40 over stock putting them at 65mm.......stock comes at 64mm then 0.10 over is 64.25.....0.20 over is 64.50......0.30 over is 64.75.......0.40 over would be 65mm (MAKEING THEM 1.00MM OVER STOCK) and so on.....call John at Sandtoyz Unlimited for any wiseco piston parts at 1-818-500-SAND.....

sounds like it's electrical, possibly cdi or damaged flywheel gone BAD!

to look for an air leak you'd be looking at your intakes and reeds/spacers, etc.......NO the black rubber boot that holds your cable on top of carbs is only used to somewhat keep the cable secured from popping up and to keep debris from getting in that area possibly making your throttle stick.....I'd say it's either an air leak, or like the other guy said, you should only be able to see about 1/8-1/4 inch when looking into the intake side of your carbs with the air filters off.....if they're higher than that they need adjusted down......that's most likly your problem......there's a couple ways to gain slack for your throttle cable, 1 is up on the handlebars actually on your throttle cable adjuster nut, 2 is on top of your carbs you can spin in or spin out the throttle cable guide (the metal piece that your throttle cable fits into that the black rubber piece, as mentioned above, fits over and protects) to gain more slack as well, the 3rd way is of course your idle screw will move it up or down some as you said you've already tryed, 4th way is your air screw, you can adjust this to allow more air/fuel mixture or or decrease it, this sometimes will help in idleing right.....also reving high is a sign of being LEAN.....if you're main is super lean it will idle real high also....hope this helps

very possible that if your carbs floats are stuck then yes, that could be causing a missing out on top end because your motor's burning the sufficient amount of fuel throughout combustion, and then the added fuel that's running out of your overflows on top of this is emptying them out and causing this.....one way to fix it is take your bowls off and work your floats up and down while spraying carb cleaner on them as well throughly cleaning them out (also if it's somewhat gummy, this will cause them to stick open).....also another little trick is taking one float completely out of each carb, (because you actually only need one in each, not 2), allowing more fuel displacement inside your bowl.....

Your time is good, especially without an override, alky, and all the HIDDEN goodies.....marvin shaws all around, gearing, the right paddle, lightened axle etc. will gain you a lot as well.....what timing are you running on that and what carbs??

dude if you're running a 15-41 and you find that too low geared?? are you running a 10mm T-Rex or what J/K!.......that gearing is equivalent to 14-38 or a 13-35 or the other way a 16-44.....which all these applications, for sand anyways, are very high geared......if you ride in sand with that gearing you're at, there's absolutly NO WAY you will be able to take off in 2nd.....Or maybe I misunderstood your meaning....hope this helps!

ToP! :baseball_bat:

actually you're wrong on this bro.....I have jetted several motors that have had aggressive/old drag port w/ stock carbs on a 350 at 2200 ft. elevation has ran from a 390 to a 420 main and 30 pilot w/ stock needle or aftermarket needle.....I'm not bashing your post I just wanted to state a fact so this guy doesn't get it branded in his head that he's got an air leak.....I would say on a 4mm with mild porting and stock carbs w/ timing advanced to around 5 and at his elevation he should be around the 400 area.....my 2 pennies... :shrug:

which side is it smoking more out of?? If the right side smokes more it can be crank seal gone bad.......But, I'd say if you just had your motor done, most likly it's jetting, pilot jet or main jet could be plugged on the side that's not smoking as much or one of your slides is sticking/up or down.....Another GOOD possibility is your flywheel could be just minorly dinged causing the temperiment that it's having while on the throttle/cutting out.....I had a bike that would be fine at idle, then once on the throttle it'd cut out bad on top end, so I changed the flywheel and it was cleared up......(the flywheel can cause this even if it's NOT damaged in any way, it may have just lost some magnetism over time and is no longer effective like it should be).....hope one of these will clear you prob.....let us know

15 front..... and a 45 rear for like trail riding/asphalt......and a 46 rear if you ride in the sand

I'm looking for a banshee clutch side cover in good shape....(NO DENTS, DINGS, ETC.).....POLISHED PREFERRED, but plain black are accepted also.....PM me with what you got and price....this piece does NOT have to have water impeller parts either....

Really that's one thing that a lot of people misunderstand about the reasoning behind cut pistons.....It may gain you like 1 horsepower, (do to lightening them up) but will terribly hurt the integrity/durability of a pistons life, If you make it over one season w/ cut pistons your doing well.....anyway, what a person is benefitting behind cutting pistons is only heat distribution....I've visited with the biggest builders about this issue in the U.S. and they have confirmed from dyno results that it's NOT worth doing.....Just a tidbit of info for anyone considering getting their pistons cut before a build....I think anymore there's only a couple builders that will still do it

Make darn sure your flywheel is tightened to spec.....If it's just a little loose it will make a terrible sounding noise from the bottom end and will definatly scare the $hit out of ya....(it's happened to me twice)....LOL! :baseball_bat:

UP! :baseball_bat:

First thing take your carbs and intakes/reeds off.....see if it's real gummy where your reeds could possibly be sticking, not allowing the proper air/fuel through....second, before disassembling your carbs make sure that it's just not the choke tube that popped off causing this abnormal behavior.....third, make sure your pilot jet isn't plugged to the max, like you said previously that the carbs were filthy, well the pilot hole opening is about the size of a pinhead and can easily be clogged up......also you may check compression and make sure you haven't lost a topend.....lastly make DAMN sure you haven't over oiled your air filter NOT allowing the proper air to intake......and also make sure you didn't switch slides after your last cleaning on your carbs...make sure you can see the windows and make sure the slide is moving correctly up and down and not stuck/etc.....hope these couple small tidbits help out.....There's also a good possibility it's electrical and that's a whole nother story within itself.... :baseball_bat:

the one side that's running out might need your float height adjusted.....it could be set where it's NOT allowing the max amount of fuel in your bowl, therefore, sucking it dry too soon.....this is a very good possibility to fix your problem....