sredish

Going the 24th thru the 26th of April.

it's minimal. no worries.

180 or 185 main. 45 pilot. try the DEK needle 3rd clip, if it tends to bog on part throttle or seems to be a little finicky with the low/mid throttle jetting, then you may try an EEK.

here's the deal. larger than normal mains typically means either 1) an inefficient motor or 2) a friggin lot of airflow is being moved... since it's mostly stock, i'm going with option 1. let me explain and I'm sure most of you know this; vacuum is what pulls the air through the main jet... with the larger main, that's telling me that your motor is not pulling a lot of vacuum, probably a little to due to the slightly higher elevation not getting as much air volume, and since it's not pulling efficient vacuum it's not sucknig a lot of fuel, so opening the main jet orifice allows more fuel to come through to compensate. In truth, that bike running 370s is probably not using much more or any more fuel than FTW's banshee that runs 280s... it's just getting the fuel in a different manner. If your bike, Milo, was then ported, your jetting very likely could come down, due to the increase in airflow and vacuum. I would almost consider putting the stock reed cages back in with some Boyesens or something similar until you port your motor, see how that affects your jetting and performance. Seeing that the vacuum and efficiency is not there, I don't believe your motor is making all the power it could or should. if it runs good, isn't lean and your happy with it, go with it. if you want to experiment a little, take my suggestion and see where it goes.

does seem unusually big. no porting? how does it run?

yea, the price really can't be beat. they have a couple trips but can hardly tell they've been ridden. got to get some fronts and some rear honda pattern hubs. edit: freak, if something falls through, I'll definitely get in contact with you.

IMO, airstrykers are the better version of the pwk. from my experience running a single 35mm pwk and going to a 35mm pwk airstryker, the throttle response was improved, part throttle was smoother and it was easier to jet, for anyone who knows how touchy the needle can be in a single carb setup. the fins help with lower rpm vacuum and keep the response up.

any oof

how does that setup work, 35 in one and 55 in the other? never thought of that but that's a good idea...

I'm getting a set of rear hubs Honda pattern for the Banshee and this way I can swap across all three sets... see which one works good on each. I know my favorite paddles period are Padla Brats... those suckers are bad to the bone, but for 4 bills, i'm just not feelin another set right now.

I have a pair of Padla Brats comp cut 8 paddles for my one Honda and a pair of superlight 8 paddle regs. for my other Honda. I'm very familiar with superlight and comp cut paddles. The lighter the better.

yea, no chit right.... i keep second guessing my thoughts so why not double check... :biggrin:

bike will have passion dune ported cylinders, PT hi revs, raised compression and reeds, adv. timing; otherwise stock. Swinger is stock as well. Found a really nice set of 21x12x8 superlight Hauler 7 paddle Extremes... thinking of picking them up to use as my dune and play drag tires. They should hook good enough but still provide enough slip to not throw me over and let me keep my revs when duning.... thoughts?

bike will have (within a week or two) passion dune ported cylinders, PT hi revs, raised compression and reeds, adv. timing; otherwise stock. Swinger is stock as well. Found a really nice set of 21x12x8 superlight Hauler 7 paddle Extremes... thinking of picking them up to use as my dune and play drag tires. They should hook good enough but still provide enough slip to not throw me over and let me keep my revs when duning.... thoughts?

Got 2 hondas and some really nice tires for them... looking at getting a 3rd set and it'd be nice if they'd all swap. where can I get some honda pattern rear hubs for the bansh? Looks like HardKor has some for $220, but anywhere cheaper? Search yielded the following: Durablue can be had for around $140 Lonestar can be had for $193 HardKor can be had for $219 so there's the choices.....

cool, thanks. figured so, but wasn't sure if they were dealing powervalve units. i'll check fast in the morn.

just found a place that showed some 400cc Trinity Cheetahs for $3400, if that's the case, they can keep it. Just nuts, is that typical?

Maybe thinking about running a set of powervalve cylinders at some point... would like to keep the stock crank for now, so 1) using pump gas compression, the crank should be alright not being welded you think? and 2) where's the best place to look for cylinders like this and what would the roundabout costs be?

thats fucked up because I was searching out pipes just like this last week, exactly like this..... ended up having to buy a new set elsewhere.... bump and good luck with a sale. price is right.

correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought they ran Mikunis.... could be wrong.

I'll also add what works for a 4 stroke doesn't always equate the same on a 2 stroke. A heavier grippier tire works best on a 2 stroke but for a 4 stroke, I prefer a lighter, Ohtsu type tire. The iRazrs worked well on my banshee but sucked balls on my thumper. The MXR4 Holeshots hook ungodly, IMO on my 4 stroke but I imagine they're spinning out, tractionless tires on the banshee. Knarlys are alright on the 4 stroke but are much better on a banshee.

from CPI directly: CPI Racing - Yamaha

Can you successfully powder coat YFZ a-arms?

could be several things: plug caps plugs crossover tube dirty carb / jets you can put a timing light on the wire to the cylinder that's not firing to see if it's getting a signal, or you could just pull the plug to check for spark before you go changing things. are you running the stock airbox?