sredish

liquedfire, send it to me in an email and i'll put it on my server and link it here. [email protected]

damn, that's too bad....

damn that's freakin tight, and it would look good as hell hitched up to my black bitch.... don't have the dough tho.... you takin payments.....

beauty is nice function is dope beauty and function is the shit!!! oh, and i got my package yo! i be stylin....

you need to run a compression check. hard starting like that is often due to low compression. also, the jetting could be a factor. typically, banshees are not hard to start, yours might be hard to start, but banshees are not. i can not run mine for a week and go out and it starts first or second kick, no question and there's lots here that will tell you the same. starting is either, compression, jetting, or carb problems so go that route, in that order.

Word on that. If your beating him now, swap your gearing to a 15/41 and you'll be tearin him up. First time I tried that gearing, I've never geared back down to a 14 front. I was switching from a 15/40 to 15/42 before my portwork. I'm getting ready to move to a 16 front.

If you have Duncan do a woods/mx port, have them send you Paul Turner Midrange pipes back with your cylinders. They have an extremely smooth and hard low to mid range kick and are very very powerful.

well, I'll say potentially serious. I'm just getting finished up with my rebuild. I don't have a lot of time on my PT Mids and am still getting used to them, but I wish I'd have kept my Fatties for duning and stuff. I'm considering getting another set for this reason. I probably won't be truly serious until I get a little more ride time on my machine, which should happen early this week. I need to play with the gearing and some other stuff. But for the right price, I would like to have an additional set of pipes.

Keep in mind, my ideal scenario is chrome. I'm getting billet sprocket and rotor hubs, I have Stan's billet carrier and I have billet hubs. I want it to look as good as possible and I would like chrome, but I am concerned with how it will hold up compared to PC. Later guys.

Are these "Fattie" pipes, like mid/overall pipes? Can you shoot me a pic of them? Either on here, or just send me an email, that's fine. [email protected] Thanks man, Scott

Yea, I actually think the stock silver looks pretty good with that color scheme.

Sounds like you should be running pretty good like that. The first few times I ran, I was dang near setup just like you. Only other things I'd add are timing, tires, and suspension. Advancing your timing 5 or 6 degrees will help a little all over and just make it peppier, and the tires will really help out with traction in those conditions. I'd recommend the Maxxis I-Razr, not the typical Razr everybody knows, but the I-Razr. Rocky Mountain has them on their site and they hook up good. Bill Ballance runs them in XC Nationals if that means anything. The tires will run $150 for the rears and the timing is miniimal cost, and free if you feel adventurous. The last one I mentioned, suspension, is by far the biggest. Right now, your motor will outperform your stock setup, no question. Some shocks up front will make a huge huge difference and how fast and how competitive you'll be. You can get some Works up front for pretty inexpensive and be twice as competitive. Have your rear rebuilt and you'll have a machine that handles and performs night and day difference. You'll probably also need nerfs and a tether line. On my bike, I had pipes, nerfs, and a coolhead then the rest of my dough went to suspension. Suspension is absolute key. If your totally in it for fun, go run it some and see, your machine is plenty capable as it sits. Most of all, have fun yo!!

Fatties - Tad less bottom, tad more top Gnarlies - Tad more bottom, tad less top I'd go with the Fatties unless your strictly mx'ing or xc'ing. The Fatties have great low end and awesome pull and plenty of top to hang with the top end pipes at the dunes. They're the perfect all-around pipe.

Whatever you do, don't ask locogato, those Missouri boys can't jet for shit.... j/k bro. Hey, I'm gonna take a wild guess here. I have no experience jetting strokers and big bores, but I'm gonna say try some 380s to 400s in the main. I could be totally wrong, but I feel thats where I'd start if it were my machine. Also, it might be time to invest in some bigger carbs to really get the full potential. Later.

I'm getting my swinger tomorrow and I'm having second thoughts about chroming it. I'll be racing XC with it and am concerned with the durability of the chrome compared with PowderCoating. I know quite often, cracks will develop around the welds with a chrome job and am thinking that the PC might hold up quite a bit better. Anyone have any opinions regarding this? Maybe Dune's powderchrome is what I need here. If I go with PC, what color do you guys think will work best, a matching blue or something else? I'm like a chick when it comes to color decisions on my banshee.... Later.

whatsup peeps. just got back from the caribbean. cooldevil, you gots a pm yo! loco, thanks for your comment, but it shows how how wrong you are..... i don't know shiznit!!!! late

How many of them are riding 4 strokers??

Why will the mid to high hit be better than the SSTs? It really depends on your riding style man. If you dune and are in sand, or drag a lot, the T3's might be a little better, but if you ride mostly trails and/or mx or woods or anything like that, the SSTs will be much better for you than the T3s. Don't get me wrong, the SST's will be a very strong duner and dragger, and actually is a better overall pipe, you could be in the dunes tearing it up, and then be in tight trails and still have really good low/mid for that to.

Stay with the 20" rear tho. Don't go to an 18" paddle. Get the 20" and see how it runs before you change the gearing, but chances are a 16 tooth will work really good.

Damn. Wish I had the cash....

After all, that's why we buy pipes....

Why do you want to change the gap of your plugs. Technically, the larger the gap, the better the performance, that's why people add high voltage ignitions, to increase spark gap for more efficient combustion. A narrower gap is not what you want. Think of the splitfire and the new Bosch plugs, they have multiple conductors to increase the amount of spark area, which is what you would want, not reduce the spark area. I run my plugs straight out of the box, no gapping or anything and that works perfectly and that's what I'd suggest. If you really want to measure the gap and make sure it's right, I'd use the recommended gap from Yamaha.

I'd get TCS to rebuild the rear. You'll be more than happy with it, in my opinion. I have an elka and am very happy with it, but as you know, they are pricey. I don't really have much of a difference report, but for the money, the TCS rebuild is a good option. Elka can rebuild the rear as well if your more into them.

Much more low, and quite a bit less top. Great for mx, tight trails and stuff, but lack the top end of the fatties.

I run 22x7x10 fronts. The 20s are for mx. I race xc and like to have good clearance up front and the larger diameter help it climb over holes, through stuff and float through mud. I've thought about getting 23s but they're so damn big.