sredish

Powdercoat is much much much more durable, harder and thicker and will last a lot longer and won't chip the same way. $400 to $500 is f'ing insane. That guy ought to be in jail for theivery. I paid $150 for my frame, and that included the paint, the labor and the sandblasting. I dropped it off and got it back for that.

For pipes, get some FMF Gnarlies, or Paul Turner mids, or for ultimate low end you could pick up a set of 2 into 1 pipes (like DMD 916s) pretty cheap and have killer low and mid. Don't get Toomeys or ESRs. I went on my first ride with the I-Razrs and they kicked complete ass. I was running standard Razrs. The I-Razrs hook up awesome, but slide good as hell to. Also, I wouldn't gear down, all that'll do is make you shift more, IMO.

Lonestar has a great tutorial on overall alignment. Lonestar's Aligment page.

So no info on the differences huh? I'm thinking the Scotts might be the unit of choice, by my gut anyway....

I posted pics of the swinger primered before I sent it off in the Images section, but I haven't gotten it back from the PC'er yet. I had them spray on a powder that looks similar to chrome. It's actually called Super Chrome and it's my first time using the color. I hope to have it and my clutch cover back today or tomorrow. I'll be sure to post pics as well!

With a rich pilot, you'll also find out you can often cold start without the choke. This sounds like a good idea, but not necessarily because if it's so rich you don't need the choke, there goes some throttle response like Banchetta mentioned and/or the loading up and fouling. I usually think of it like this: If you DO NOT need to choke to cold start, it might be rich, and if you DO need the choke to warm start, it is probably a little lean. Having to use the choke is normal and it can help you figure out where you need to be sometimes. Above all, trial and error. Just like women, they all like it different ways.....

I need to get that one. I can watch Huevos all day. When's 8 coming out? One of us needs to put together an all Banshee version of Huevos. Nuthin but banshees.

I'm thinking about upgrading my stabilizer from the Denton style to a nice bar mounted. I've read a little about both and searched some but haven't come up with much. I did read that Duece likes his Scott's. Anyone have any opinions on the comparison of these two? Theres a GPR on ebay for around 2 bills, i'm sure it will go up a little, but if anywhere around that is a decent deal, then i might try that, or I just might buy a new one and be done with it. Thanks for the inputs. Scott

Porting can vary a lot. And by a lot, I mean a lot. You could be at a 330, or a 390 depending on how much porting and how opened up they are. I'd say go try some 350s and see where your at. Your really gonna have to do some plug reading to dial in a ported motor, and if your not familiar with that, time to do some reading up on it.

Well, I can't say I don't buy Dirtwheels, because I have to have every mag with a quad in it. Dirtwheels does suck and is way biased, and what's even worse is how 4 wheel ATV Action has the same damn articles and reviews. What's the sense in that. I used to like the reader's rides in Dirtwheels, but it's out of control. They've ruined the letters section. They need to add a reader's rides in the back, cut it in half and put real letters in the letters section. ATV Sport is a pretty decent mag. ATV Rider isn't that great, but hey, it's got quads in it.

Posted.

I'm gonna say the same. If you are looking for a good low all the way through top, the Fatties are a great pipe for that. The PT Mids have an awesome low/mid pull and fall off a little earlier than the Fatties and the DMCs have even more low and less top than the PTs. So you need to figure out whats more important. Personally, I think the Fatties are one of the best all around pipes you can get, bar none. I also think that RNBRAD has too much time on his hands to play all those games so proficiently....

Well, it depends on how it was put together from the factory. There is a "stock" spec for the banshee, but it was actually shipped to different areas with different main jets depending on the region it was shipped to. It also depends on your elevation if your asking about a rejet. I'd say around 210 to 220, but it can vary a lot depending on the variables i mentioned.

Sounds like your idle screws weren't put in quite right. You should expect the machine to behave just as it did before you installed it and it should idle normally.

For just a typical air filter change from stock to K&N should be a couple sizes bigger, maybe 3, but you'll have to find out whats in there and then go up from there. We can't tell you whats in the machine currently. If the snorkle is not removed from the front of the air box, remove it also.

what size pilots do you have and how many kicks does it take it to cold start? Chances are, DMC and stclark are correct (even tho he's from MO) and you may just need to find the 30s and put them in. Starting and idling issues often are due to the pilot jet and if it's lean it might not want to idle or start well.

Like he said, unless your compression is up over 155 or so and/or your timing is advanced, there really is no need for the race fuel. 92 will work just as good, and in some cases the race fuel won't burn properly because it needs the extra compression to burn properly. Run the fuel that your motor is "built" for. Later.

nice.... glad to hear how good it worked out. we have a local dyno that will charge $20 for and "undetermined" number of runs, basically, for a couple hours worth of running. Cheap cheap. That's awesome Tyler, bet it runs like a freak!!!

FMF Fatties all the way. They don't lay off and the respond unbelievable to porting.

+7 Everyone's gotta be different.

XFactor is the shit.... Uuuuh, for a Mac anyways...

That's a good deal there, someone should hit it up.... I would but am already pimped in that department...

If your on the same puter or a network, Lee could probably do an IP check.