sredish

I like them both. Like Meat said, quality heims have more flex and are a little stronger. However, ball joints don't typically limit you in a-arm flex or tie rod flex on our machines, so there's not the need of additional flex, and I'm not a personal fan of extra maintenance if it's not needed either. One thing I like about heims is they're clean, compared to grease oozing out everywhere, but the new sealed ball joints are super clean as well. With that in mind, I'm running LSR a-arms with their new heavy duty sealed ball joints. These things can't be greased and they're sealed tight. I like that, shit can't get in, and shit can't get out and get messy. I'd probably like heims on the a-arms, but i'd always be worried about getting dirt and shit in there, that's how I am. With these ball joints I don't worry. Now, I do run heim jointed tie rods. More because all the stronger tie rods out there are heim jointed so that's what I got. They seem fine and strong so we'll see how they work out. I don't really think you could go wrong either way, just be sure that whichever you choose, that you keep it maintained in a way that is required for that joint. Later.

I'm running Paul Turners Midrange pipes and they work awesome, but these pipes aren't known for their top end, hence the name. Stevie boy, stclark, has been running Toomey T5s and they ripped ass on midrange and top end, he said they had pretty decent low as well, and now he's traded for some Shearer drag pipes and i'm sure they'll work good for that. So, you can pretty much run whatever pipe you want. I'd personally recommend Fatties or T5s for all around riding. Fatties are my personal preference for all-around pipes and they work awesome with portwork. Stephen really like his T5 setup, so you choose. His portwork works really good though, nice and smooth powerband.

actually, no offense, but i just talked to douglas about this yesterday and a 1-4 is what you want for wider. a 4-1 will be narrower than using stock wheels. this is what she told me, so if i'm wrong, that tech is wrong. It wouldn't be the first time for a tech to be wrong, but that's what i was told. I researched it because with my +2 arms, I can be pretty wide in the woods and want a wheel that will narrow me up a tad more if the course is a tight one. hope that helps. if you have any doubt, do what I did, contact the mfg. and let them tell you what you need, that way you can eliminate getting the wrong wheels. Douglas Wheels ITP Wheels

I'm actually running that exact set that I bought on Ebay pretty cheap. I busted a tie rod end at a race and needed some quick and decided to try them. I don't think ASR has too good of a rep, but I don't think they're all that bad either. I called them and talked to them about the tie rods before I bought them and they seemed pretty decent. Supposedly they have a lifetime warranty, but I don't hold a lot on that. Overall, they seem really stout and high quality. The stud bolts are a little long, but nothing rubs or gets in the way and after I got them mounted, I just cut the excess off. I've ridden with them pretty damn hard so far and they've held up perfectly. Getting ready to start the new race season so we'll see how they hold up this year, but I wouldn't hesitate to give them a try, personally. Later.

put your username in the right side field to eliminate all the other bs, but you probably knew that. EDIT: Is this 250r thread the one you were looking for?

Went out on my first ride last weekend with them. I'll say the I-Razr's seem to hook up really well. The looser it gets the harder they grab, but still seemed to grab just as good as my plain old Razrs on hard packed dirt. Where I felt they shined unbelievably is sliding. They hook up awesome, and when you come flying into a corner, you can just ask the quad to start coming around, they do better than any tire I've ridden on. They slide extremely well and are predictable as hell. You ask them to slide and they do, when your ready to straighten out, hook up, and get gone, they do just that. I did 3 hard laps on a 10 mile xc course saturday. We did one light lap to kind of learn the course and warm up. Each lap I took, I felt more confident in the corners with these tires. By the last lap, I was coming into corners faster and it was easier to take the corners with more speed, and I was leaving corners faster. I'm really pleased with them. They're somewhat heavier than my 6-ply standard Razrs but the quad never noticed. This was also the first hard ride with my new porting and PT Mid pipes and they all worked extremely well together. Later.

I just had some burritos from Taco Mayo and ..... my shit rips....

was wondering if that was you....

I'm around 48 to 49" and was thinking of getting some different offset fronts that might narrow me up another inch or so. Dunno if they make that offset or not. Ben, I'm pretty much as wide as you I guess, I'm +2 arms and stock wheels. Later fellas.

To be completely honest with you, the first "West" race is up in the air. It's 5 hours from me and I won't really know if I can go until a week or so before. I'm hoping so, but we'll just have to see. Knowing your going gives me some incentive. The first "East" race is mid-Jan and I'll be making that one for sure. I'm going to try to make as many from both sides as I can, but often times, 3 hours maybe a tad more is all I can usually manage, being that we run our own company. Makes it easy in some ways and hard in others. I'll stay in touch about it. Not to be dragging this more offtopic, but how wide are you running your machine? Later.

Sweet. Keep me updated on where your going, how your coming and all the details so I can meet up with you fellas..... Lemme know if there's anything I can help you with out here. Late.

aahhhahahahaa Thanks for the laugh. That is the most ridiculous thing I've heard. Torching your head. I'm sorry, I don't mean to sound like a jerk like that, but you should not have to torch or heat your head up to get it to start within 10 or 15 kicks when it hasn't been started in a week. Above all, like bigboy mentioned, if someone has to kick their motor 10 times or more to get it started when it normally has ran good, it is time for a compression check, pronto. That way you can rule out a new top end. If the compression turns out fine, then it may be time to look at jetting, but compression first always.

don't they have a 2 stroke class? Gilmer, trying to remember where that is.... EDIT: Aha, Gilmer is about 3 hours away. Ben, if you wanna make it, I'll be your pit boy. I don't feel like getting involved in that, next thing I'd know, I'd be heading to TN, WV, OH and everywhere else chasing nationals....

I've got +2 +1 front a-arms. I really like my width. In some instances, however, I'd like to be a tad narrower, not very often, but occasionally. I'm currently running stock front wheels. I believe I may be getting some Douglas Billet Beadlocks for the front to match the rears for xmas, and I imagine these will be the same backspacing as stock, not sure tho. My question is, can I order an inexpensive set, or even a set of Baja reinforced, of front wheels with backspacing to where my front end will be a little narrower? So, if the upcoming race has some really narrow sections, I can swap wheels/tires and narrow up a little. An inch in these instances can mean the difference of making it or not. My rear axle has the spacers so I can go from +4 to +2 to stock in 1 minute. I'd like to have that ability for the front as well. Stock backspacing is 2+3 right, or how does that go, and what backspacing would I be looking for to accomplish what I need? I don't know nuttin bout no backspacing... Thanks, Later.

Doughnuts.... Krispy Kreme to be exact...

Hey Meat, I'll check that out tomorrow. The Works Enduro..... I should've listened to you in the first place.....

GPR is going to have a new stabilizer out by the end of January that will mount down by the radiator out of sight and have a small remote adjuster on the handlebars you can quickly adjust with your left thumb. i'll probably wait to get that one and just keep using my denton style till then.

Just keep on riding, or find a harder track to ride on.

Well, didn't you ask all the right questions. First, the GPR won't work with the LSR stem. For some reason LSR makes the raptor and banshee stems a hair narrower than every other one known to man.... Second, I just got my two items back and they both look like shit. The powder didn't look very hard to me, so I tapped it lightly with a wrench, and whaddyaknow, the goddamned shit chipped out. So, now I have two parts that look like shit, smell like shit, so hmmm, they must be shit and the GPR I was all excited about ain't gonna work either. This just all happened in the last 5 minutes. I'm f'ed all the way around. Oh, and merry christmas.

My banshee will hang with any of em on the trail or in the woods, but you'll probably put more money in that than in say a yfz or z400. I have 10Gs in mine, kinda stuck now i guess...

Be a man... set some law around your house yo!!!

To whom it may concern I just ordered a GPR. I went with them because of the lifetime warranty, free annual service, and they also upgraded internal circuitry to stainless for me because of the racing. I also like the fact that the new version fits under the bar as opposed to the big eyesore above the bars, for a much cleaner look and it'll raise my bars another 3/4", in addition to the +1 stem, which I think will help even more. It also has no clicks, it's infinitely adjustable and can be "tuned" by GPR at no charge for personal preferences should you need more or less overall dampening. As does the Scotts, it has high speed and low speed dampening, but it's adjustable on the GPR by only one knob, where as the high speed on the Scotts has two know adjustments. This may be good or bad, I don't know, but I feel that only one thing to turn will be less confusion. The GPR is not often used by recreational ATV riders because it require the use of an aftermarket anti-vibe stem only, can't use with stock ATV stem. The older version could, but it's discontinued. Well there's my lowdown. I'll let you all know how it works out.

For what it's worth, my banshee liked 27.5's with the Fatties also.

That's why the banshee benefits from a lighter flywheel, because it has NO low end, so, you take some of the weight off and it allows the motor to rev faster at lower rpms creating more low end power. With the stock weighted flywheel at low rpms the weight keeps the motor from gathering rpms as fast and then when it finally hits the power it spins hard creating the harder powerband. Make sense? With a cr500 motor or something, a heavier flywheel might be better suited due to the insane pull, but the banshee doesn't have any low end really, so the lighter flywheel helps the rpms rev quicker.