sredish

well, not much. You should be able to squeeze another main jet size out of removing the snorkel and cutting the rear 2 inches off the lid.

Keep the fatties for awhile, I believe you'll like them.

Excellent choice. You'll be very happy. T5's are good pipes, but I feel they're a little to "top heavy" for track use. And the DMC's and 2-1 pipes are great for the track but can be a little "bottom heavy" for high speed trails. I think you made the right choice.

order them from CarbParts.com. Just look the phone number up and call them directly. Tell them you need an EEK for a PWK carb and they'll know exactly what your talking about. I'm also trying to figure out why you want an ECK, I'm not going to tell you to not try it if you think you need one, but that seems like it would lean out the L1 and clip area too much. If anything, on that carb, you'd need to maybe richen it up due to the vacuum issues. The needles are Keihen needles and the EEK or ECK or DEK designates the needle exactly, I guess you could say it's a model number, but each letter designates a part of the needle. For instance, the first letter (lets use EEK) is an E. This first position designates the needle taper. D would be leaner than E, and C would be leaner than D, get it? The middle is for designating what they call the L1. The L1 is the clip area and the portion above the lower tapered area. Finally, the last position is the overall diameter. Here's a chart that shows you EXACTLY what I'm talking about. It might take a few minutes to get the jist of the chart becuase it can be confusing, but once you get it, you'll see what I'm talking about. Keihen PWK Needles

Way to tell for sure would be to take a compression reading in the cylinders, but chances are with the 20cc domes, you'll probably be able to get by with 93. Don't know if the 2 points makes much difference but I'd run 93 over 91. If your unsure, you could mix the 93 with some VP half and half, but no, straight VP is not necessary.

Mid-throttle would be the needle. Try moving it to the 4th clip down or even the 5th to see what happens.

Yes, I agree with the idea that the pilot may be too much and I also agree that the bog may be partly from the needle. At 1/4 throttle, the pilot is transitioning into the needle. You could have a case where the pilot is too rich and the needle is not tuned well either. Try playing with the needle clips to see if you can get it to run better. Scott

Supposedly.... and I don't know this for fact, but it quiets it down quite a bit and doesn't lose any performance... they say. In fact, I've had several peeps tell me it actually improves top end ever so slightly. I don't know if that's the case, but it's worth a shot. I just recently went to a set of T5's and they are quite loud and I want to try one of these kits as well. If you get one, let us know how it works out. Scott

A hotter plug isn't going to do anything. And, it doesn't burn oil from the crankcase. The Outerwears isn't going to do anything as far as running it lean or rich. Now, have you messed with your pilot / jetting any? You could probably use to get a couple sets of plugs, but for pete's sake, get the ones that your supposed to be running; BR8ES plugs.

So are you saying your running T5's with no sileners at all... What about stingers? Hell yea, I'd be putting some silencers on. I bet that biatch is loud as folk with no silencers. You won't lose any power, throw some cans on that bitch.

Dammit, you better jump on that freestyler, thats one hell of a down payment on a thumper.

1) If your going to use Water Wetter, follow the bottle's instructions. 2) If your going to listen to a fellow HQ'er, then take the Water Wetter back and get some Engine Ice and put it in, no water, just straight Engine Ice.

Standard for the single carb on a banshee would be a DEK. I personally think a CEK would be too lean at 3/4 with a PWK unless you lived at a higher altitude. In some instances, the stock porting on a banshee won't quite give it enough vacuum to get the fuel through at 3/4 to WOT. I've seen more than a few like that. In that case, an EEK makes a great needle for that. I'd buy a DEK and an EEK and see which one works best for you. The two are identical except the EEK is richer in the 3/4 to WOT area, comes on quicker and lets more through in that range. Don't get that confused with the clip area, technically, clip position shouldn't change between the two. If you find yourself needing a pretty large main jet, that could be evidence for needing the EEK needle. On a ported motor, there is quite a bit more vacuum due to the extra flow coming through and this will let the DEK be a good choice in that instance. I was using an EEK and after all the portwork, I went back to the DEK. Hope that helps. Scott

Best thing to do if it kicks over easy and no noise or grinding, run a compression check. If you think something internal could be screwed, pull the head and look at the pistons and see if they look normal. Also, drain your oil and look for coolant or something in there and also pull the stator cover and the flywheel and look for oil behind there.

I'll take those wheel covers off of you, really need some.

Think I hear the sounds of another project on the way.... Sorry to hear about your loss.

If idling is your issue, then the idle/pilot jet is what you'll want to play with. The main does nothing for your idle. Depending on where the "low rpm" is and where your throttle is at, the needle may need something to, but I'd start with the pilot and see what happens.

What mods, elevation, airbox setup and other specs? Do you know what jets you have in there? Sounds like you may need to raise/richen the needles one clip. I'd try that first.

sure your jetting is on? you just rebuilt it, may have to "retune"...

that sounds awfully lean on the main for a ported motor. what kind of pipes are you running? typically, you wouldn't run a different tapered needle in one carb.

These carbs are awesome. They are in great condition but I don't want to use the bigger honkers, I'm partial to the single so I'm not going to use them. I'm selling them as a pair and I don't have a throttle cable for them, but they're maybe $30 from Motion Pro. $175 takes em home. Scott

Well, as most around here know, there is no "definite" with anything. Every mod, IMO, requires, not necessarily jetting, but plug checks. Hell, I check plugs like once a month at least, whether I add mods or not. So, what I should've said is, rejetting shouldn't be necessary, but you should check your plugs to be sure. If your jetted a little lean, there's a definite possibility of a detonation, especially with more advanced timing. What I find is, some mods don't really affect your air/fuel, however, they'll accentuate an already borderline situation sometimes. Someone may not realize they're on the lean side, but then will throw on a timing plate and it starts to overheat a little, or maybe a little detonation. I don't know if that makes sense either but I agree with checking your jetting after ANY mod. Although I didn't have to rejet when I threw on my Dyna, I sure as hell checked my plugs to be sure.

That's with your PJ tho, right? Do you do the dance in front of people?

13/42 sounds way to low for me. I'd run a 14/41 minimum and probably a 15/41 like I do on my bike. WIth that portwork, you'll want the extra gearing, I promise you. Also, your problem could be jetting, electrical, or lots of things. You need to get into the carbs and see what size mains you have in there ,because if it was jetting thta'd be where the problem lies. Will it do it if your idling and the punch the throttle revving it hard?