sredish

Damn, can't get better than a .367, but I'm also on a laptop....

Front fenders are EXPENSIVE to ship, especially with the ears on them. You might go get a quote before you charge them so you don't get screwed.

Kenda Klaws are totally awesome. I was a die hard Maxxis man, that is until I ran a set of Klaw fronts. They track and turn freaking hard. When you turn the front, you better be ready, not too mention they have extremely great wear and the price is as good as you can get.

What jets are currently in it? Have you messed with the idle screw to get it to idle? On rare occasions, I've seen having to remove the spring on the idle screw and cut it in half to get more adjustability on the idle screw. Also, what needle are you running? On stock portwork, the EEK tends to run better.

You'd think it was the opposite, but actually, the less power you use, the harder the sub works. Also, people typically will turn the gains higher to compensate which, in turn, works the sub even harder. Using more power makes the sub sound better and perform better more efficiently. In most cases, it's better to run more power than recommended with the gains turned down a little than it is to run a lot less power, say half or less, with the gains turned up. Consider it like this, a 90hp motor needs dang near full throttle to get it to 100mph, so you have it buried and working it's ass off to get there, then compare it to a 500hp motor and it doesn't take hardly any effort to get it to 100. Same principle, more power = less work. So, if you have a sub with a rating of 400 watts RMS, then it's best to match that as close as possible and it'd be better to have 500 RMS rather than 300 RMS. For example, the L7's (750W RMS) need more power than the L5's (600W RMS). The L5's will sound better with 400W of power than the L7's will, because the L7's need more power to move the speaker the same distance, if that makes sense. The L5's aren't necessarily better or worse, they just are designed to use less power. You can make a pretty good sounding system with L5's and not a lot of power. I'm not arguing with anyone, but in my opinion, 100W would be working that L7 to death and it wouldn't sound good at all. Remember also that he's talking about two subs, so you'd need double the watts to put that number to each sub. Dunno if that helps any. Scott

RockyMountainATV.com has always been a good place. Email this guy and tell him SREDISH sent ya and he should give you some good prices as well. His company is Merrill Stone Inc, and I've done a shitload of bidness with him. He's also a GNCC racer. [email protected]

Maybe, maybe not. That's why we suggest running a plug check in full throttle in 5th or 6th gear, which will provide the biggest load. Have you checked the plug after it sputters? When it starts sputtering, pull the clutch and kill it, keeping the throttle pinned, then read the plug. That'll tell you what's going on jetting-wise. If you think it maybe reed valve related then pull the carbs and inspect the reeds.

Glad to hear oh Holy one.... Have fun with all the goodies you put on that thing.

exactly what i was thinking. change the plugs, then do some low-mid throttle jetting to keep it from happening again.

They do Zero!!!!

I'd get from 290 to 320 mains. Everyones machine runs different, but it seems winter jetting is usually 300 to 310 and summer is around 290 to 300. Also, I've found the stock needles work better than the Dynojet needles. I'd run the stock needles in the 4th clip. Pilot a 30.

putting the airbox lid on will be about the same as richening the main 1/2 size. Have you ran a full throttle plug check? That will give you a definite answer on what you need to do. FMF's recommendations are like a 260, but my experience is they need anywhere froma 290 to 310 at sea level. If your close to sea level, then you'll be pretty lean and putting lid back on will make minimal difference. I'd get some 290s or 300s and throw them in there and see how it runs. Also, the air is still sucking but you can't hear it with the lid on like you can when the lid is off. I run a lid with the back 2" cut off for more air but plenty of protection. Scott

Yea, I got the Symmetry setup when it came out and used it for awhile until I changed vehicles and got out of comps. They really are pretty nice, even today. I've thought about getting another, you can find em on Ebay sometimes, but the need really isn't there for me. I haven't heard much about the DQL, but haven't been deep in it in awhile.

Sounds like you need to bump your main jet up a size or two and retry. Also, read the Troubleshooting your Jetting at the top of the page for some more info.

Keep in mind, those holes have to be centered PERFECTLY. If they're not setup centered, then it'll vibrate like crazy and probably wear heavily on your bearings.

I like that Symmetry setup. You been using it for awhile?

sounds like jetting. warmer weather can affect that. also, fmf's recommended jetting is not always what it should be. You need to find out what jets you have in there and get back to us if you can. I think fmf recommends a 260 main Is it sputtering or bogging? What's it doing when it gives you trouble in 5th?

No, behind the rear seat. The amps are under the rear seat. I wanted the amps under the seat due to the extra room, hoping to be able to cool them better.

I doubt I have the most, and not concerned, but here's what I have: 2003 Black F250 - 6" Lift on 35's Kenwood x959 Head Unit (about to switch to a DDX 8017 DVD In-dash source Unit) Front: Pair - MB Quartz 1" Tweets Pair - MB Quartz 5.25" Mids Pair - MB Quartz 6.5" Midbass Rear: Pair - MB Quartz 5.25" Mids Pair - Rockford Fosgate 8" Midbass Pair - Rockford Fosgate 12" Power Subs Amps: Fosgate 551x - front tweets, 5.25" & rear 5.25" Fosgate 851s - front 6.5" & rear 8" Fosgate 1001bd - 1 per sub (total of 2) Total of about 3,400 rated watts. Spec'ed at about 3,700 or 3,800 watts and sounds damn good. It was hard for me to decide between MB Quartz and Focal and I doubt either would've been a bad choice, but MB ended up with my vote.

Is this at full throttle, half throttle or what and when does this happen? Read the Troubleshooting your Jetting thread at the top of this forum and it'll give you a lot of info. Scott

A Kicker L7 takes 750 RMS and 1500 Peak Watts. L7s really like the power. PER SPEAKER, 400 watts will power one okay, but it has to be a 400 watts RMS amp not a 400 watts peak. 400 watts peak will only give it about 200 to 250 RMS and it won't be near enough. That is per speaker, so you need to double that for running two. Ideally, a 1500 watt RMS amp will be perfect, and they'll hit really really hard. At minimum, I'd look for a 800 to 1,000 watt RMS amp at 2 ohms and they should sound good. You can find some really good deals on Ebay for Rockford Fosgate 1001bd or 1501bd amps. For instance : RF 1001bd AMP. It's rated at 1,000 watts at 2 ohms and probably pushes close to 1,200. It's at $150. I run two of these exact amps, and they kicks serious ass. But... I have two subs with one of these amps on each one. For running the one amp to two subs, you'll have to divide that number, so the two L7's will see maybe 550 to 600 watts, which will work well. A lot of new amps are rated in RMS, but be sure to verify that.

Don't know man, I'd say get a couple pullers (they're cheap) and keep trying that way. It's bound to come loose. The Wd40 idea is a good one, and the impact could be a good idea as well, just be sure to have a super strong one and plenty of air.

one word : blasterhq.com

He's right. With the portwork, you could be at a 180 or a 200 or so. 190 is a good place to start and the pilot could be a 50 or 52. As we always say, jetting is trial and error and no one can give you a good idea, but that should get you close. Let us know how it turns out. Scott

LedoftheZep... I MISS YOU!! Please come back...