sredish

yeah, especially if your trying to tighten it down with it pointing straight ahead. I just pivot mine around to the right side of the tank and run it around the right side. It's a little tight, but I can get it. If you need to, slide the metal tip out of the cap a little to get it started. That's the only thing I've seen that is a PITA with that carb/throttle setup. After 8 months, I haven't had any trouble. Later.

if you have a lot of air, which you could if your not doing it right, you'll have hardly and pressure, if any. You'll have as much pressure at 5 pumps as with 50, so just pump 5 times, hold and bleed. Maintain constant pressure, then close the bleeder before your lever stops. Do this 5 or 6 times and you should feel some pressure come back in. Keep doing until you don't see any more air. Don't worry about how the lever feels until after several correct tries. If it just will not pressurize, then check for leaks.

Yea, I'd still say start with 190, you might end up around 180 or so, but better safe than sorry. However, in some cases, you might go up a size or so also. I'm running a 220, which is much higher than anyone else I've talked to with similar setups. Go to a 190 and you'll find out. definitely put the clip in the 4th position first

Dammit!! That's what I need. Check out this auction and tell me what you think. I've posted this in the auction section too, but since this is going, I though I'd throw it in. ASR Front Rear Stainless Brake Line Set

alright, calm down. there is nothing easier to do in the world than bleed a brake system. pump the brake lever 4 or 5 times hold the pressure on the lever open the bleeder on the caliper, while keeping pressure on the lever. the lever will go down close the bleeder while the lever is still going back. be sure to close the bleed screw before your lever bottoms out or you'll just be putting air back into the system. For instance, if you pump and get a tad of pressure, open the bleed screw. If fluid comes out, keep pressure on the lever to force the fluid out, and BE SURE to close the bleed screw while the fluid is still coming out. Then pump the lever again and bleed again. Do this over and over until you know the air is out and you have a good firm lever. If you've opened the bleed screw and let air in, then it might take a few times to start seeing fluid, air might be the only thing coming out the first time or two. MAKE SURE that you open the master cylinder cover and keep it full. As you pump the lever, your forcing fluid down into the lines and out of the cylinder. If you let it get low, then you'll pump air in from the top, which just lengthens the process. Good luck, and let us know how it works out. PS - Have a service manual?

Considering I don't know any other thing about your bike, elevation, or air intake, I'd say start with a 190 and work down, and a 50 pilot, 4th clip on the needle.

Look how sweet this guy is... Bada Bing. Sorry, I've been watching the Sopranos.

Don't worry, I'll be there, and I'll roost him for ya!! I'm leaving at 8am bright and early for me.

The way I see it, your there. Why pay extra money later to go back in, when you're there, you might as well do the work. I'd say go ahead and do a port job. Don't go crazy, get a light port job to help clean and smooth the ports, that alone will make a world of difference. From there, you can decide how you want your motor to be built in the future. I don't recommend going in and opening everything up to the moon. You need a lot of other mods to really support that, just a nice clean light port and polish would work wonders. Good luck, Scott

hills, trails, mx, and even dunes. it does not have the top end of a pair of 34s, but it has way more top end than a pair of stockers!! What frocashmoney said was correct.

Dooh! I too took it off just to look inside, however I did put it back on before I installed the saver. See what happens when you post a pic, you get analyzed to hell. It's all good. I also need some new chain slides, however, I try not to let the ladies in my life put a wrench on my machine. Later, glad it was an easy fix. Now, just get the part. I'm going to the dealer today and I'll get a part number if no one gives you one by then.

Remove the spark plugs and caps and test the leads themselves to see if the caps are faulty. Your not running TORS correct? How did you test the ignition coil, checked for resistance right? The primary should have about .30 ohms and the secondary around 5 or 6 ohms. The pickup coil should have anywhere from 95 to 140 ohms. You said you ruled out the switch and checked for loose connections? If it's not one of the above, and you tried a cdi from a running bike, there's got to be something loose somewhere. Good luck and check back. PS - Sure you don't want to go duning with us this weekend?

Hell, for the dunes only, I'd get the .125 Blue Labels. I run the .160 Black Labels all the time and I really like them, haven't had any trouble.

Your gonna get like 50 jets.

Not bad, might be able to find it cheaper, but that is more or less what you need, and don't get it from the dealer. MagicRacing.com RockymountainATV.com

The stockers are too high and back. It's like riding gramma's Bruin. The CR bends have a much more aggressive feel and help you position yourself accordingly. Stockers Pullback - 4" Height - 6" Width - 30.5" CR Hi Pullback - 2.5" Height - 3.75" Width - 31.25" CR Lo Pullback - 2.25" Height - 3.5" Width - 31.75" That shows you the difference.

Where are your needles? As you'll see in the below chart, the needles are a big contributor to the entire midrange. If you don't have those set properly, then your mid will be blah. It could still start okay with the right pilot.

yes, either will work just about as good. Honestly, the 33 might give you a tad more low end and the 35 might give you a tad more top end. When I mean "tad", I mean hardly noticeable if at all, mabye only on a dyno sheet.

Yes, they're a great thing to have when you need them. Definitely cheap insurance. The cost from Ebay is around $20. I wouldn't ride without one, as I feel much better with it. I know they work because a bud has one and he refuses to run anything other than cheap lightweight chains. He breaks one or two a year and it just falls flat and has never hurt the saver. c_rossman is the guy who sells them on ebay. i just searched for all his auctions and the one below came up. Maybe he just listed it, maybe the wires were crossed. I found the one I bought using the same thing you mentioned. Don't know. Buy this one and tell him sredish sent ya. Banshee Case Saver

Just rereading. I shouldn't have said the 33 is a waste of time. Banshee76179 runs one with some good porting and intake work, and he really likes it. The post before is my opinion, I would buy the 35 over the 33 like the prev. post mentions, but I shouldn't say the 33 a waste, as I'm sure it runs great also.

sheez, this is getting out of hand.

Honda has done lost the trust in the atv world. yeah, they got a 450r now, but a day late and a dollar short. They want to put us in awe again, then just do it already. We'll know it's the truth when it's on the showroom floor.

Lucky man there.

switch 'em back and see.

That ain't no joke. I have 4, yep 4, crossthreaded or spinning lug nuts that won't tighten. I have 8 new ones supposedly coming tomorrow. I also have 2 new front tires that are supposed to be here tomorrow, along with a new stator cover that my wife insisted I buy after she saw the trimming around the sprocket. She say's, "you can't go without a new cover, your gonna get caught in that". Sooo, now I'm waiting on that and it's supposed to be here tomorrow. Well, that's where the fun comes in... Good luck with the tire.