sredish

In my opinion, I believe the 33 and 35 perform equally on a stock bike. I also believe as your mods grow, the 35 will outperform the 33 due to the extra air, especially from mid through the top end. This is why my opinion is to never buy the 33 when you can get the 35 for a tad more and go a lot farther with it. If you already have pipes and all that, which you do, then I'd say without a doubt, get the 35. Just my opinion. There are guys here who run the 33 and love it. Scott PS - I'm not sellin'

fatties without a doubt. great with the single carb setup.

congrats man. It feels good when she's up and going like crazy after all that work huh?

Sorry, I didn't see your list up there. I do that sh*t all the time. Your main jet is pretty lean, unless your elevation is way up there. I would also say 300 or 310. I ran 310 w/ my fatties and the airbox lid on, and a Uni filter, no K&N. As far as pilot, I'd try a 27.5 pilot and the 4th clip. Some banshees need more fuel than others, mines one of them, it likes 'em rich. Try that and put your air screw a turn out or so and see if you get anywhere. The starting is all in the pilot, air screw and part of the needle. The needle will help starting, but the pilot is also good there. The air screw is good for fine tuning once you get er going.

and we need to know more about the girls in your avatar...

me too me too.

loose/bad connection, voltage regulator under the seat, lighting coil to name a few. Check that you have voltage at the lights, if not, then check it at the switch. If there's no voltage there, try it at the regulator. Follow the wire all the way back to the voltage regulator, check for loose connections or anything suspicious. If you don't have voltage at the regulator then on to the coil.

Now, I never said "crappy", just not my taste of wine. I did say top end, I guess I felt they were more top end than the Fatties. Very true is the statement, "Bottom line, banshee pipes are like pussies, everyone has their own opinion upon which are the best," although I'm not as picky in that department. This thread, and every other pipe thread makes that abundantly clear. So take every opinion and disect it the way you want to help you find what you are personally looking for.

Exactly what I was thinking.

Simply put, the TORS system kills the throttle if the slides stick open. They have nothing to do with syncing the carbs, or a cv system. He is feeding you a load of bs. The bad thing about TORS is it malfunctions, only a matter of time, and then your shit won't start or run right. The good thing is its very easy to get rid of and it should be gotten rid of.

id give my left nut for one fun filled f*ck day at the playboy mansion. I didn't read anywhere it said a "guaranteed f&^k day". I bet it would just be the bigges set of blue balls you've ever had. I'm with Cotton-Eyed-Joe on this one, go to see some cheap girlies and get me a LSR frame, a-arms and s-arm. I know where there are some really "nasty" girlies that are hotter than F*$#&(*#&*#(*K, now that would be fun.

I heard they give you like 5 horsepower. j/k. I wouldn't mind getting one or two either, I think they work, just not real drastic, maybe 5 degree difference or something.

drill a hole and pull it out, oh wait, that might not be a good idea. You can use a spot weld and pull it out, but that will not be good for the chrome.

Go to Reading Spark Plugs and that will tell you what to look for. I had some pictures, but I can't find them. The very outer ring of the plug (end of the threads) should have a dark ring, and the tip of the plug will be a tannish brownish color. Deep down inside the ceramic of the ring, it will be a darker brown. Accelerate at full throttle on a straight Push the engine stop button and pull the clutch lever in to release the clutch Coast to a stop Remove the spark plug

Magicracing is a good choice, but their limited on their website to 200 on the mains. I run a 220 and had to go to CarbParts.com to get mine anything over 200.

That is true. Make sure your running race fuel, 110 octane or better. Reeds also could do that, you might consider checking before you start screwing with the jetting, but assuming the reeds are good, I'll add my good ol' 2 cents. As long as your using the 110+ gas, go up on the mains 4 or 5 sizes and see what shee does. Check your plugs. When you get the plugs burning good, adjust the pilots. Also, your needle should be 3rd clip from the top, and if you have pipes, the 4th clip. That will help starting, and you might need to go up on the pilot a little. A list of mods, elevation and air setup would be much better to help you out with jetting.

I have also heard they are pretty damn good, especially for the price. However, I believe RockymountainATV is backordered on them. That may not be the case now, but I think it was a month ago.

Like evil said, does your Uncle know what he's doing? If your confident that he in fact does, might be a good way to save money, but BE SURE he know what he's doing. That isn't a fun first timer thing to do. Just cleaning up the factory mess without opening too much up will help a lot and is rather easy. But then, when considering the downside, might be best to save up and wait for a good shop to do the whole kit and kaboodle, that way if there's a f*^k up, it's their bill, not yours.

That helps quite a bit, plus losing the hassle of syncing and dicking with two carbs.

Stay with a cr bend and they'll be nice and comfortable. I run the cr low, but I believe the cr high is one of the most popular and most comfortable. I love my Tag T2 bars, they look great and so far have been great bars, like them better than my old Pro Tapers. The Tag grips are equally comfortable, nice and comfy, although, I don't think they'll last too long.

Yep, if it's running good over 1/4 throttle and shitty under 1/4 throttle then it's in the pilot jet more than likely. Turn your air screw 1.5 turns out and adjust the pilot jet to run good and "fine tune" with the air screw.While your in there adjusting the pilots, check to see that there isn't any dirt or gunk built up that could be causing problems, chances are there isn't becuase your fouling. If it was clogged it should be leaning out. I've seen it where a bike will run just a tad different on one cylinder than the other. It has to do with the choke letting one side get a touch more fuel than the other and it messes things up. If you have to, and your sure there isn't anything else wrong, then jet the one cylinder how it needs to be, granted the main should be equal, but the idling and such might need a smidgen different or something. I know some people think this is crazy, but I've seen it before with stock carbs. In fact, I bet there's one post a month about the cylinders a little different. Thats one reason I like the single carb, ver easy. Call me lazy. Good luck.

Yeah, I screwed that one up. Remember that f'ing disgusting picture in the "Mature Audiences only" thread? The Spam thread is almost as gross to me, so I thought I'd take a poll.

HANDCHECK

From the little bit that I've heard, I think thats the direction I want to go, but I don't have enough info on them yet to do much planning, especially as far as which mfg? I'm not sure I know who all makes this kit. If you have any info, I'd love to know, maybe I'll start a new thread. I started a big bore sleeve thread and didn't really get any info. I'd like to put in the sleeve soon and then next year go to the +4 crank. Honestly, it has more than enough power right now, more than I really need. Here's a few pics that I have. It's super clean at the moment, but don't have any new clean pics yet. These were taken Saturday. My stator cover and new wheels/tires will be here tomorrow or Thursday. I haven't really done that much to it, especially compared to some out there. Maybe one day...

If I were you, I'd run straight race fuel, skip the half and half shit with 200+ psi. What are your other mods, elevation, airbox setup and what are the jets your running now? It probably is lean.