MILO

i would not advise running without them, actually i think your clutch would be really sloppy without them, if it worked at all. they go on the back side of the basket between it and the large gear that it bolts to.

here's a link to the story that was on the news, with a little more info. http://www.wnep.com/Global/story.asp?S=4538557

yeah, in the superbowl halftime show the old stones looked like they have eroded a lot over the years

my nephew is having clutch problems with his '03 blaster. he said it worked fine all day, then when coming down a hill, he was trying to find neutral to let it coast and popped into 1st gear. of coarse the wheels jammed up and so on, but from that point on, the clutch was gone. he rode it home and said everything seemed to shift fine, just didn't have a clutch. i pulled the cover to check it out and when you pull the lever, nothing happens in the basket. the push lever turns fine, but it doesn't push out the pressure plate or anything. the basket, inner hub and p-plate were all fine, so i pulled the fibers/steels which seemed fine, and put the rod back in but there's no pressure on the rod when you pull the lever. i'm hoping that it's just something with the push lever assembly, which is an easy fix. i'm gonna pull it out here shortly. obviously the blaster is a little different set up than the rod and ball in the shee. is there anything else in there that i need to look for while i have it apart? or any other suggestions of what's wrong here? also, is the pattern of the steels going back in the same staggered pattern as on the shee? thanks. i know, i need to buy a clymer's for the blaster, but i haven't made it to town yet.

the block off plate is only $10 too. sure looks alot better than having the clunk of junk left on there. less shit to work around when messing with the brakes too. and i'm sure the weight reduction is pretty signicant as well

yamaha will tell you 24:1 because it's very unlikely to cause any damage. they won't tell you to mix more lean than that because if it does cause any problems, it could come back on them. but it does depend on where you are, what gas, and so on. see what shee likes and stick with it.

that's what i was thinking too. and so far, he's just dreaming about it, so he probably can't really say either.

i was always told that you should have about a 2mm chocolate colored 'smoke ring' around the base, so i'd say it looks good.

don't overlook the simple things - like the carb bowls being switched, out of sync, missing crossover tube, or broken reeds -before diving into rebuilds and so on.

careless an irresponsible riders will ruin it every time. granted, there are some tree huggers, enviro's that will never be happy, but most people are pretty reasonable about offroad riding. as long as it doesn't cause any damage directly to their land or living situation. i can leave my house and go for miles on trails, through farms, people's driveways, around their yards, thru their woods and fields, etc. as long as you show a little respect when near their home or don't destroy things, or do it 100x a day, it's not a problem. there are places to rip it up, and those where you should restrain yourself a little to provide for future riding possibilities. i ride in my own yard a lot too, and yeah it shows a little wear, no big deal. but if someone was to come in my yard and start drag racing over and over, rippin doughnuts, and screamin around all day and night tearin the shit out of it, i'd be pissed off too, so to a point i can see where these folks are coming from. on the other hand, if it's being done on public land, and they just happen to be next to it and don't like it - MOVE!! or just shut up and deal with it. better yet, look into the sport and see what it's all about and why so many other people are into it. i bet if they tried it once, they'd be out there rippin it up too and be happy to have a place to ride so close to home!

i got out the grinder and took off the parking brake bracket part of the perch. it's ground down flat and looks just like a regular perch. a little black paint to cover up the grinding marks and a little time was all i had in it. here's a pic

i've only used yamalube 2r. 24:1 is pretty rich and mostly used for the break-in. shee seemed to be really smokin and i literally had oil dripping from my tail pipes. once broken in well, i switched to 32:1 and have been mixing that since. very slight smoking, but it is a 2 stroke after all, right? it's never caused any issues so why risk going too lean and locking her up

i'd definitely replace it with the aluminum one. my pos stock plastic one pretty much disintegrated. it was still attached to the shaft but the core of it was all that was left, no fins or anything at all. shee was overheating, and i think the pieces are what trashed the seal to the tranny, which made my clutch slip like hell and burn up. all from a piece of shit plastic impeller replace it asap, and hopefully before running into problems.

i saw a link on here somewhere on the posting status, but can't find it anymore!

been there, done that

check out this link at paatving.com. scout around the site while you're their. lots of great pa riders and events here. http://www.paatving.com/events/2006/index.asp

too bad it doesn't take into account 'read' messages rather than just 'posted' messages. i've done 100x more reading than posting. learned alot from here though that's for sure.

i was thinking more along the lines of a radiator hose. split it in half a cup it over the frame.

plug - about .030" - usually cool out of the box tranny - i use bel-ray gear saver - 80wt filter - wash in water, dish soap if needed. i usually don't use filter oil

plain and simple... it's more of a pain in the ass than what it's worth!!

dunno, i can't get passed watching her tits long enough to try to read her lips

that's one of those stories that's funny as hell after you find out nobody was actually hurt.

if i ask the wife to get the ketchup out of the bottle for me, do you think she'll understand ? damn, that was a little too much though.

the pro flow foam filters usually have pro design printed on the foam, has an oval shaped mounting boot, and does have 2 clamps. one to hold the inner cage in place, and 1 to mount to the flange. i think the k&n style adapter has more of a round boot on it. check out rockymountain.com. they have replacement pro design filters. foam or k&n's.