floyd398

Yeah, if you drain out the gas it can cause dry rot but if you're not using that starbrite stuff, I would rather drain the gas than let water sit in them. According to the bottle if I remember correctly, you can add the startron into the gas after a period of time and it will still eat away the ethanol. On a side note. My brother and I did a little experiment at our auto shop with pump gas. After doing a fuel tank sending unit in a vehicle at the shop a while ago I saved a water bottle worth of gas from the vehicle. I let it sit just to see what would happen. And I also cleaned out all the water from the bottle before putting the gas into it. In only about 2-3 weeks I saw a film of water on the bottom of the water bottle. It was actually almost exactly 10% of the volume in the bottle. Then what I did was take my mix of 32:1 93 octane gas mixed with klotz R50 which is the premix I always use. This gas before mixing also had 10% ethanol in it. What I found was that the bottle sat and still sits today after about 2 months. All I can say is that there are trace amounts of water maybe 2-5% compared to 10% with the fuel only sample. Anyway, I didn't come to any positive conclusion but it seemed like with the oil mix, Ethanol is slower to absorb moisture from the air.

I also use Sta-bil in my engines but I have recently found something better. First of to explain what my reasoning for buying this product is. In Nj, The gas is mixed at 90% petrol and 10% ethanol. Now this is because of all the EPA bullshit going on to make a cleaner burning fuel. Some of you might not know that after 30 days ethanol basically turns into water. You see, Ethanol is hygroscopic, which means that it attracts water from the air . This creates a layer of water over time. I have seen first hand what this does to fuel systems over time and even my buddies brand new raptor 350. The raptor was purchased last june and sat in the showroom for a year prior to purchasing. They admittedly used Sta-bil in the the fuel but this did not take care of the water problem. All of the o-rings had dry-rotted and the jets had turned to green from exposure, (just like when your bathroom sink finally starts turning green) Anyway, I found this product called STAR*TRON, which is made by starbrite. The product was actually created for use in either 2 stroke or 4 stroke boat motors for storage over the winter months. This product not only stabilizes Petrol for up to 1 year but also diesel fuel for up to 2 years. Not only that, it also stops the ethanol from absorbing any water. I use it all the time now and in all my family's vehicles at my auto shop that sit for while when not being driven. Each bottle is 8 ounces, which costs about $10 each and treats up to 125 gallons. You guys should definately check this stuff out though. If you guys want to see some pics of my buddies carb after sitting in the showroom for 1 year I'll post em. Go to Startron.com or starbrite.com or call then directly at 1-800-327-8583

Klotz R50 @32:1, right after I broke her in on Lucas Semi Synth

Go for the DMC's. Do some searching on the site. You'll find nothing but good comments on DMC aliens or 916's. No one here ever seems to put DMC's into a top 5 list. Everyone always seems to say that the T-5's are the best, which is cool cuz they are a great pipe but I think the DMC's are one of the best all around pipes you can buy. I've ridden both FMF's and stage IV's too so my opinion is not totally biased. Good luck with your decision :thumbsup:

With that setup I would start with some 310 mains, those should be pretty close but if too rich go to the 300's. As far pilots the stock 25's should be fine but you could always try some 27.5's. Stock needles will be fine too. Your also gonna have to mess with your mixture screws. Start at 1.5 turns out from all the way in and go from there. You shouldn't have to go more than 1.5 turns either way to get them set. Also In terms of porting with DMC's I have aliens ( same pipes different silencer) and I was wondering how my pipes would take to porting too. I asked pokeatyou2 cuz his bike is ported with DMC's. he said it took really well for an all around/mx/trailriding port. He said the midrange kick is awesome but the top end might not be as good as T-5's but shit you're gonna get mixed reviews anyway. I'm sure that you'd be happy with either pipe but I love my Dmc's. The quality (chrome looks as good as the day I got them), the sound and the way they come on the pipe is great. just my .02

Yeah that's one thing I wish was like the blaster with the small bolts holding the sprocket on. Much less chance of crap like that happening

You scared me for a second there. I thought that you were gonna ask where the kick start is. but anyway 'theshee' mentioned some pretty essential stuff there.

In my factory manual it says 1.5 liters to fill after draining, which is almost exactly 1.5 quarts. (1L = 1.05 quarts), Nearly identical in this scale. So I always buy 3 liters or quarts of tranny fluid and have enough for 2 changes.

I friggin love these tires. I've ridden soft to hard shit and they hook up real nice. Had them for a year...probably about 500 miles on them and their wear is at about 1/3 of the way down. Not to bad IMO. The only other tires I would try would be klaws cuz I haven't tried them yet but heard good things. Otherwise, yeah the knarlys are great

Anybody use Motul 10-30 transoil synth? I've been running it for about 2 years now. No problems with it but everybody seems to like the bel-ray. I know bel-ray is a good product but should I switch to it for my next change. What benefits are there?

I would have to say: The Banshee is a machine that makes all others look in wonder at a machine that accelerates and screams with reckless abandonment. But I have to say the dictionary says it pretty damn good too. Main Entry: ban

While we're on the topic of Valving, I was curious if someone could Give some experience related advice on one of Elka's valving options over the other for the type of riding I do. First of all I like to hit whoops sections riding pretty hard . that means like 4th gear wide open which makes me want to lean towards XC valving and I do ride some tighter trails on occasion when neccasary. Also, I like to go to the track a couple times a year....rausch creek PA. My question is should I stick with XC valving but at expert level instead of the beginner shit they gave me off of the shelf or should I go with MX at expert? I would like to keep the shocks a little responsive over the the flat and choppy shit but in terms of getting air, at most I'll be hitting a jump where I get 6-8 feet of air. I know it's a detailed question but any advice would be appreciated. Also I am getting the shocks resprung for +2 A-Arms cause I'm looking to order a set of quicksand's soon. I know that they might be a little stiff for a while but I'll deal until I get the extended A- Arms. I'm expecting a call from elka tomorrow and am leaning towards XC expert but would like a second or third opinion. Thanks for any feedback.

I saw one at the dealership a few days ago. Real nice looking. You can take off the fenders for track use too. Fuel injection and reverse with 20inch rear tire it's ready for trail or track..you gotta love it. Dirt wheels said it was faster stock than the honda 450 but didn't say anything about it beating the yzf. They also said that it felt similar to the yzf in handling. The best thing about it though imo is the fuel injection.

check this out..might help you in deciding http://www.trailsource.com/scripts/two.asp...&COUNTRY=US

In case anyone wants to know how to send their Shocks back to Elka for Servicing I wrote what I did to help anyone's return process go a little more smoothly. What you need to do is take your shocks and clean them well with water and light soap or whatever to get them pretty clean. I wrapped mine in bubble wrap and boxed them individually so that they wouldn't rub and scratch. I used a set of car shock boxes from my auto shop. After that get a box to put both boxes in together. I Used a windshield washer solvent box. Ups has boxes that you can purchase too. what you want to do next is download and print out these 3 sheets of paper...here are the links to each one. Now before you do anything with these sheets, make sure that you call elka first and get an RGA # or Returned Goods Authorization #. Write these #'s on all 3 sheets. Elka will ask when you call why you are returning them for service. This first one is the one you want to package in your box on top for them to open.. SERVICE WORK ORDER FORM: http://www.elkasuspension.com/sharedfiles/...ceWorkOrder.pdf The next 2 go outside the box but just bring them to UPS and they'll take care of posting these sheets to the box. COMMERCIAL INVOICE: http://www.elkasuspension.com/sharedfiles/...cialInvoice.pdf DIRECT SHIPPING LABEL: this one is preferred over the US shipping label. I was told that if you use the US label it will take forever to get to Elka in Quebec. http://www.elkasuspension.com/sharedfiles/...abel-DIRECT.pdf Also make sure that you use your Social Security # or Tax ID # from your business as authorization for Customs in Canada. Write these #'s down on the Service Work Order and Commercial Invoice. When I got to UPS I insured them for $850 Which cost an extra $7 and sent them out standard shipping. Total Cost of Shipping From NJ was about $30. Would get there in 2 days. Turn around time from the time they get your shocks is supposedly about 10 to 14 days I wrote down in the Description of Problem Area on the bottom of the Service work order page that I wanted to be contacted when they received my package so I could go over valving options. This time I want to make sure that it's done more thoroughly. Hope this Helps. Sorry the links didn't work: Here is a link right to that page from elka's site. http://www.elkasuspension.com/service/forms.html

Yup, elka is rebuilding them. they said that they would call me when they get my shocks just to go over valving options even though I refiled a new work order with new options like mx expert valving ect.. The shipping costs are a bitch though. Hopefully they get tuned a little better to my style. I mean I don't just ride mx so that why I figured initially that XC would be my best option but maybe mx is better all around for riding hard. we'll see what happens.. I told them pretty much the same thing you said when I ordered mine too but like you said your's feel pretty good so I'll bet you're setup is closer to what you asked for. oh yeah and all you have to do is give them the serial #'s on your shocks and they can tell you your valving setup.

what valving did you ask for?..MX, XC, dune Ect?? Beginner, Novice, expert ect... I only ask because when I got mine a while back I asked for XC valving so they could do a little bit of everything and now after I've been riding them for a while. I always thought that they were too soft. I came to find out that they were valved for xc beginner after i called to ask for service in terms of revalving from sebastian and I was a little pissed. I told him that I'd been riding for 20 years when I first ordered the shocks and rode hard but he gave me something for a beginner right off of the shelf. One shock is blown so I got them boxed today and I'm sending them out to get them both serviced and revalved...I'm leaning towards mx expert but I'm not sure what I should get exactly. Problem is they'll never be perfect unless the guy building your shocks watches the way that you ride first. What I would really like to do is talk to the guy who's building my shocks not the guy who's trying to sell me on the product. Thanks for any input or suggestions.

I got some MSR strike force pants for $108 about a year ago and they're pretty nice. It's nice to be able to zip off into shorts when you stop on a hot day. As far as being waterproof they do seem to be water resistant and dry relatively fast.

yeah my bro has an AC six pack rack also. Like most AC products they don't fit just right but are worth it after you get em on. Nice product IMO

I use Renthal Banshee Bend. :thumbsup:

Thor Quadrant. Not bad for $140

I've used the knarly's for a while now. they hook up great in all terrains and don't seem to wear out too quick

My father got a jardine 4in. turbo back exhaust for his 7.3 powerstroke f250. I think he paid about $350 for it. Nice easy fit too.

My father got a jardine 4in. turbo back exhaust for his 7.3 powerstroke f250. I think he paid about $350 for ir. Nice easy fit too.

I put a large computer fan with a brushless motor on mine a while ago that was hooked up to the high speed wire of the fan with an on/off switch that I ran to the handlebars. I initially thought that it was doing something but if so it was very minimal. I have to say though that with a Noss Head, Billet Impeller, and Engine Ice, I never really get over 190F at the highest on my temp gauge and the temp usually sticks around 170F....and that's with temperature in the 90's outside. Now I realize that somehow installing a larger motorcycle fan with a shroud would be the only way to see any difference. IMO a fan is really worthless unless you're riding very slow woods trails that don't get too much air passing through the radiator.