Wallynut

Sometimes a nice solid tap on the puller with a hammer will break it loose(get a little tension on it first). If it's rusty, that won't help matters.

Been using K&N for years, need a new one, was just wondering if foam type will fit the adapter or will I have to buy the whole kit?

Ask at any cabinet shop in your area, they should be able to hook you up. If you have a table saw or circular saw, you can make your own if you can't find it. Depending on what you are making, there is also a bending ply about 3/8" think (it bends in certian direction-lengthwise or widthwise, so order/buy accordingly) that works really well. We usually will attach first layer, glue up and attach second layer with just staples, once glue sets up, it does the real holding. The second layer really smooths out things. All depends on what you are building.

I'm in the process right now of cutting mine down. I ordered a steel holder for the carrier from JJ and A Racing, got the one third from the top which is already to weld on and attach pinch bolt tubes. I thought their price was fine considering driving around to find right size tube and then to have to cut it like they did. Fits my RAD carrier perfect. Might be a little while till I weld mine up, still waiting on a few parts, most just got here yesterday. If you work in a fab shop, you should know about setting it up and cross measuring. You may want to make up something to hold the parts so that the axle and swingarm pivot stay parallel, your other concern will be left and right so that chain is not being pulled to the side. Figured the worst I could do is mess it up. PS: forgot to mention I'm changing mine over to the newer style carrier for easier chain adjustment.

I believe that if you measure the opening where the slide is, you will be pretty close to figuring it out. There should also be some markings (number/letters) somewhere on the carbs. Should correlate with Mikuni's model model numbers somehow. I know that my Keihin carb has that for identification.

Milo, everyone has their own opinions on chains/sprockets, so might as well give you mine. I normally use a renthal front sprocket $15-20, steel sprocket on rear (here's where opininons are different, along with chain choices) not brand specific$16-20, and DID x-ring $60-80. Prices vary depending on where you order from. I just ordered this from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC for $90 plus shipping. You can get cheaper "kits" from Rocky, Vito's, and other places. Just don't scimp on the chain, will only cost you more in the long run.

Paddles might work good for snow, but adding screws would be hard. I use 22" Spider Tracs, plenty to screw into.

I was planning on checking how much left to right I need to keep the housing so the chain is straight. Once that is figured out, I was gonna make a wooden jig to hold the swingarm in place, then measure from housing to swingarm pivot to keep it all square. Yea, the last thing I want is a machine that dog tracks. Figured on just tacking it together, then putting it on the bike to see how it all looks before final weld up. Can't wait till my parts get here.

If your gonna run on the roads covered with snow, I wouldn't waste good studs, just run sheet metal screws into some older tires. Your gonna loose some of them especially if you hit clear surfaces anyway, it is a blast. You will loose the screws also when riding off road due to rocks and roots, just warn anyone riding with you that they may get roosted with a few. Not too many people are gonna want to stay on your tail anyways. Even with screws, it's a good lesson in controlled sliding when off road, on ice, it's just plain fun. Guys without screws will just be sit'n and spin'.

I'm gonna shorten my swingarm myself, got some stuff on order. Just figured I ask, I've already done a few searchs. I know there are guys here that make them any length, but want to give this a try. I believe that I have thought it through as to what needs to be done. I want it shorter and don't want to deal with the chain adjustment hassles anymore.

Go for it

Thanks for the offer. I was hoping someone had one from lonestar or like that. I was gonna alter my stock one if i couldn't find what I'm looking for. 2-1/2" might be a little to short, did you have regular pegs with that swinger?

If your plugs are white with that size main, I have to agree with the others that you must have a leak somewhere. Never used propane, I've always used carb cleaner since I always have some around for cleaning. I'd check at flywheel side, the head and reed cage areas again. Check both cold and hot.

Looking for a -2 swingarm. Mostly do trail riding, that is why I'm looking for one.

Devin where you at? Here in wisconsin, I'm running 190 right now and have no problem. wesw, I'm really having a problem getting past your posts with those girls constantly shake'n about.

The only way to tell is to run her and do a plug chop. Your main does seem rich, but like said, plug chop is the only way. I would think that you should be in the 195-200 main for winter unless your in upper canada or alaska. Your mixing of extra oil isn't going to help. Running more oil is like leaning out your bike(less gas in the mix getting to the motor). I've run the denominator oil all year round at 50 to 1. I'd switch back to that mix then start on your jetting.

Never rode the dunes, but that story makes it pretty easy to imagine what it's like. Throw in a few mud holes and rutted out trails, i could really relate.

The two carbs usually offered is the 33 or the 35pwk. As stated by others, go with the 35 if you have any plans to do porting in the future. You should have no trouble beating your friend right now, or after putting on a single carb setup. My nephew has a 400ex that has a 440 kit/cam/and pipe, he may get the first couple of feet on me, but from there on, I'm in front. The longer the race, the farther away I pull ahead. My comment on the larger 38pwk is based on my experience with that carb on my KTM 200exc. Works very well with that motor. Could take some experimentation to make it work on the banshee.

For the type of riding sj30 says he does, single carb will work out good. sj30, if you like the benefits stated on single carb use, get one. I got my trinity setup on ebay, guy went by the name of motomahimahi, good to work with-prompt shipping. I really like mine, lost no top end and I'm running a 33pwk. Eventually, when I start to get into porting and other mods, I plan on trying a larger carb (38pwk), not really that expensive to do. Yea, banshee's with major mods will beat you in a drag, but if your trail riding, you won't be running into them anyway. For me, no screwing around sync' and no wide open throttle sticking after running through water.

Thanks for the reply. It just might be wear from normal riding. Even though I'm still stock on the pistons, bike has lots of miles on it from running fire roads. I'm just gonna put in a new seal and replace what got damaged from being hit. Funny how my bike has a sliced tire, bent axle, carrier, swingarm, and chain guard, but the other bike had no damage other then a bent bumper. Oh well, time to look for replacement parts.

Long story short, I got rear ended hard enough to bend my axle(left side) and carrier. Had to ride it out several miles. Went as slow as possible, but noticed the counter shaft seal was leaking once stopped. Sprockets and chain are trashed. Pulled the spocket off, don't notice any side to side play, but in and out is about 1/4". Is that normal? Is play taken up when tightening down the counter shaft sprocket? I know that I at least have to replace my seal, just want to know if I should plan on splitting the cases to replace anything inside. Would hate to replace all the parts, start riding, just to find out ifsomething else is screwed. With bike running, the shaft seems to run true, don't know of any way to test for run-out. Thanks in advance for any help.

I'm lucky, I bought my new Banshee 3 years ago (had a beat up '95 I bought used, meant abused, before that), but this year bought a new KTM 200exc for trail riding. To me, I got the best of both worlds. I can't agree that dirtbikes a more maintence then atv's. Both of my machines are two strokes, neither one goes thru plugs. My bike is for trailriding, where as the motocross bikes used for trailriding, may tend to load up, not being tuned for that kind of riding. Can't say that one is more fun then the other to ride either. Hope that I never have to choose which one to get rid of, cause I like both.

Guys used to cut off the last inch or two of the air box lid to get more air, this would allow you to use your filter. I'd suggest saving up the money and get the pro-flow adaptor with either the UNI or K&N filter and running with no lid, do a search, you'll see a long standing debate on that subject. Stock type filter sucks in toooo much dirt. Do a plug chop at WOT, that is the only way to know for sure about your jetting, plugs are cheap compared to motors. I would guess that you may be too rich with lid on and stock air cleaner.

NGK makes plugs with solid tops that aren't thread on. Look at the end of the box when you go to buy plugs next time, or ask for solid tip

Depends on your elevation, most can use 20-21cc on premium gas