Wallynut

Thats pretty good. Long ago, when I was in boot camp (many years ago) we wrapped a guy up with toliet paper while he was sleeping. When morning came, we were awoken to someone screaming bloody murder, we had forgotten all about him. This guy thought he died and was in the after life when all he could see was white and could hardly move. (we used around 4 rolls of tp).

I had a '96 silverado 2wd, that when I totaled it, it had 75,000 miles and no problems except when brand new there was a ticking noise that drove me nuts. Turned out to be some welding slag floating around in the drive shaft. I now have a '03 silverado 4wd with 50,000 miles, I've had it in twice for leaking front diff, for some reason it builds up pressure and blows out lube thru the vent now and then, they have never been able to fix that. Other then that, it pulls my trailer good enough with no mechanical problems what so ever. I liked the older trucks better, I was and always will be a fan of the chevy 350(actually got better gas mileage with the '96 compared to the '03, about 5+mpg diff on highway). If you don't need diesel, the chevy is okay, ford has come a long way in interior improvements and overall quality. Dodge has still had quality control issues, but damn if they don't still have great styling on the exterior. To me, on a half ton truck, it's a toss up between the chevy and ford. If ford could bring it's cost down a little (ford seem to cost more here) they would win.

I'd be wondering if the previous owner did something stupid to hold it together, like JB weld, just to get rid of the machine(I've seen some pretty lame things done to machines to just get them sold) No matter what, sounds like you gotta split the cases to get that out. I'm guessing that the screw just turns and doesn't back out? Don't give up, I'm sure all this BS will be a bad memory once you get it back together and get riding.

If you can't find a cylmer manual, try locating one on line, even a used one is better then nothing. The ball and rod are not too expensive, but they are a pain to get out if they are welded together. First need to find out if that is your problem. I don't know about any special tool to just take out the clutch. Never needed any alignment tool. IF you look at where the clutch cable attachs to the arm under the carbs, before going at the clutch(work-wise), try to pull on the arm to see if the clutch moves. If it does, your problem is more likely with the cable or the adjuster on the handle bars. Your a little hard to understand about what you were going after in the clutch. Usually, folks have problems with cables not maintained both with adjustments and lubercating. Now if the previous owner messed up the internals on the clutch that is a different matter. Let us know what you find as a problem or source of the problem.

If I remember correctly, the stock ones will have "5N7" stamped on them by the clip slots.

You call that lucky???? He may be lucky to be alive, but depending on his injuries, he may not think so. He's gotta be hurting.

If ya got twist instead of thumb throttle, be careful. I tried lead shot on my kaw 1500 classic bars to reduce the vibration, caused trouble with throttle. Will have to try the silicone, that may just do it once it sets up.

You need to check if your running lean, usually opening up the breathing with a K&N, even with stock exhaust(especially one that has been opened up) you will need to change your jetting. It's the jetting that will kill your motor. Look at the jetting part of the forum, you will find reference on how to read your plugs and how to jet. It's part of owning a two stroke, learn how to do it or be prepared to rebuild.

As said, you don't really want to use K&N's in the sand without a prefilter. Use a womans nylon if your really cheap. I use outerwear myself. I've also used a prefilter called "filterskins" from www.pcracingusa.com. You oil them like the K&N, when I know I'll be riding in extremely dusty conditions, I'll carry an extra one especailly for all day rides. Just an extra precaution to protect my motor.

With the pegs set back, will I need to do something about the bars? Will I be reaching to much forward? I like being able to have my legs against the rear fenders, I do that on my brothers Predator.

That really sucks, hope it heals real well and no problems for the long term. I broke my ankle at work a few years ago and it was a drag to go thru all that and still have trouble. Takes me a little longer to get going in the morning. Hopefully, being young will be on your side for the healing part, don't rush it, do what the doc tells ya, don't blow off therapy if they send ya neither, that is the most important part.

Anyone who has had thier kid hurt or killed while riding a ATV is naturaly gonna blame the ATV. In todays society, no one wants to accept responsablilty. On the other side of the coin, the media/reporter is more then likely liberal, which equals environmental wacko. They don't like atv's much less anything that burns gas. It's like owning a gun, there is always some fruit cake thinking up some way ban them, even tho we all know that it is operator error that causes the problems. Wait till one of these wacko's say "we should ban them, to save the life of but one child is worth it" now that will really piss ya off!

You trying to kill us older folks? What the heck is K fee, some kind of coffee?

Thanks for the replies guys. I find that keep putting my feet back as far as I can on the stock foot guard which makes getting quick shifts, well, not so quick. I'll probably just end up cutting and rewelding. I don't mind the height, not sure if any benefits to lowering the pegs, for me at least.

I would like to set my pegs back, either buying Warrior/Blaster (can't remember which ones work for this), but was wondering about the shifter. Will I need to get something else too, I'm thinking that the shifter will be too far ahead.

Want to get a larger fuel tank, do they all need to remove or cut plastic to fit?

I'm not gonna muddy up the water on the Chevy vs Ford vs Dodge thing. I've been driving Chevys (trucks) for most of my life and my family all drives Chevy. You drive what you like, they all make good products. My '03 is a 1/2 ton with 5.3L, it will pull a 14foot open trailer with 4 sport quads with no problem. I get about 17-18mpg average unloaded. My dad and brother both have 3/4 tons with 6.0L, they pull very well and they have had no trouble, they get about 10-11mpg. Unless your gonna pull really heavy trailers/loads, there is no need for the diesels, nothing against them, just that they are for real work. A lot depends on where you live and how you will use it. I can get by with a half-ton, others that live in hilly areas or pull real loads need a lot more.

My wife likes the Banshee because it makes me happy. She is afraid that I will get hurt on it, because now that she rides with me, she see's what I'm doing. We ride together alot, I just have to stop all the time to wait for her to catch up!

'95 banshee, stock carb, tors gone, twist throttle, K&N filter, lid depending on how wet is. Shee will bog and then rev to the moon. I'm starting to wonder if maybe the tors eliminator kit, where you drill and tap for the idle screw, could be a source of problems. Displaced metal could be causing the tightness that has been noticed by some of you guys trying to figure this out. Will see if I can find a inside mic to check my carbs. Just a thought. So far, it doesn't seem to effect bikes with tors or different carbs then stock.

I don't mind being in the 40-49 age group, better then being older then all hell!!